How much is the lifter supposed to push up and down with your finger? I don't have new one to check and have no expertise on how is it supposed to move up and down.

I been flushing/cleaning them with new oil.

 

Who knows the exact force ?
Can you compare them and mount the worst ones as #1/#2 ; #4/#5 for best oiling.

If they are not contaminated with glitter, they will work.

The big deal are the roller needle bearings that don't go the distance extra dry.

 

No glitter.

There are a couple that are seized (not just the ones on the pitted lobes and also on the passenger side too), even if I try to compress them with pliers (bench vise is not where I am doing this repair) after cleaning them. I will try to sonicate 1 of them to see if it loosens up as a test. I used some from the head i bought.

Also, INA maybe the OEM for them so instead of paying $30 a piece at benz, the INA are $6 a piece. Or if you like OEM, the INA number cross references to Kia, Dodge, Chrysler, MB, jag, etc so you could order the same from OEM dodge for $12 retail.

 

Can you match stuck lifters to damaged lobes??

Regarding the production of loose metals... rinse your oil filter cap clean.
It has a built-in bypass valve that stores contaminants ready to bypass filter upon start with fresh oil.
If any piston squirters gets plugged up, cylinder will fail by lack of lubrication.

Its best to stay ahead of that happening.
🤞

 

Indeterminate. Some stuck have 0 damaged lobes. Just typical wear

Yes will be doing that soon to the filter housing.

I am SOL on piston squirters as I am not opening up the bortom end nor the oil pan to check anything right now.

 

of course you don't want to drop the oil pan... that's why you clean oil filter bypass and hope for the best✌️

Actually MB is nice to have A TWO PIECE - PAN DESIGN.

let me get you a picture...

oil pan clean out (labeled as B)

Oil pan has a bottom cover you can easily open in 5mn to clean junk out!

 

I would replace all the lifters and cam as a set due to sever damage your original CAM showed.

Could have damage inside lifter you will no be aware of until a few miles down the road they fail and ruin another cam.

Spend the money.

 

Find attachment

 

Went to a Dodge dealer as they had 100 of them in stock where as the MB, Kia, etc had 0 and asked for 1. You could not push the lifter down by hand. I ordered 24 INA (Made in Germany) and none of them you can push down by your fingers. Never tried with anything else.

I replaced all 24 of them.

Anyone know the torque spec of the cam auxiliary bearing cap? Some state 10Nm + 90 degree, 8 Nm??? I have spend 2+ hour looking for it. Someone posted a bunch of torque specs for the valve train on one of those asked sites but it was a google drive link that expired

 

Whats ur mileage now ?

 

140k. It was bought with issues. See this thread too
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...e-pitting.html

 

Ooops that is sad

 

Just saw a video on the M278 and guy stated 9-10 Nm but that was going off of him memory as he did not look it up. He showed the 130Nm and a bunch of other things on his laptop but not that.

 

 

To properly fully clean the hydraulic tappets / lifters; use a 1.5mm hex Allen key to press down through the top hole upside down and find the center of the bottom where the check valve is. (To make this easier to one hand it I cut down an Allen key with a vice and cutoff wheel smaller than a stubby so it fit between my thumb and forefinger with the lifter in hand) Press the 1.5mm hex in and help press the head of the lifter with your other hand all the way down. This will squirt out all the contaminated oil. These get metal particles stuck in the check valve at the bottom and fail locked all the way up. This puts uneven pressure on the camshaft and the lobes. They also jam open and won’t lock out as well. Both problems caused by debris that once contaminated has no way to leave the hydraulic lifter / tapper.

The front ones nearest the camshaft adjusters always seem to be locked hard up even after draining and letting it sit for a few weeks. This is how you know a lifter is jammed. All the mostly ok ones drain down.

I soak them in Berryman B12 in a wide mouth lab media jar with a GL80 chemical resistant cap.

With gloves repeat the drain procedure with the 1.5mm hex and pump them repeatedly until all the crud comes out in fresh b12 in a shallow dish.

I then ultrasonic them in clean Maxlife ATF at high temp 80C.They should self pump up to near max if not locked out hard depending on orientation.

I then repeat the drain procedure with the 1.5mm hex in Berryman b12 and clean again with carb cleaner spray into the two holes pump until clear.

At this point you can load them with fresh oil by placing in fresh oil upright and pressing the check valve all the way down and pumping the top slowly in and out. Then release the check valve at the bottom of a stroke and it should be rock hard once to the top.

I set these aside in a clean pan ready to install. If you want to be extra certain to prevent startup wear the first time you can load them with warm Redline Engine Assembly Lube (oil circuit vs grease viscosity) instead of oil.

Reinstall the full tested locked to the top hydraulic lifter / tappets.

Before installing the followers press the 1.5mm hex into each lifter and unlock the check valve. Pump the head of the lifter down to the bottom once. Release both the check valve and the lifter head. They are now ready to self calibrate tension on the valves and cams on startup. The only time locked to the top lifters is ok is with all fresh components. They come pre-packed to the brim to prevent air from causing corrosion and any debris from making it in before install. Place in closed container full of oil or Redline Engine Assembly Lube depending on what you loaded them with until ready to install.

Otherwise just replace them all. They’re $5 a piece; INA makes the OEM ones. Make sure and engine assembly grease all mechanical touch points. Also helps prevent corrosion if you take awhile to do it. If you need more than a day or two then take the cam adjusters and cam valves off and soak them in ATF. They will rust.

INA VT0086 / 6420500080
Mercedes Engine Camshaft Follower

p.s. whenever I hear complaints about lifters tapping; it’s nearly always contaminated hydraulic lifters. Also gets misdiagnosed as chain tensioners for noisy startup. Easier to sell cam tensioner cover reseal job than a full head (OEM shop won’t do a lifter job without a full head).

 

@SatireWolf thanks. I bought the INA ones.

All the ones from the replacement head I bought were the same. Some hard to push some easy.

so I have 2 old sets now