S K

I recently picked up an 07 ml63 amg, upon start up the car leaks very bad, the leak is coming just below somewhere under the driver side valve cover, but both side valve covers as well as cam covers have been done this week.

The leak is very bad, it drips a good amount, leaving a smal puddle in the drive way, it covers the ac compresser as well, driver side (LHD) somewhere below the valve cover up towards the front of the car, if anyone has any insight or suggestions it would be highly appreciated!

Logan Scheres

I have the same leak. Valve cover we just done, I know it's not that, I'll be digging into it next week and will let you know what I find. Hoping it's something small. I noticed high crankcase pressure so I'm going to replace the pcv breather assembly also to see if it helps. My oil dipstick pops out after high rpm driving.

S K

It's weird because I had my local Mercedes dealer diagnose the issue, stating my leak was from the PS reservoir and cap, valve covers and cam covers, I replaced both the valve covers with updated "plastic" ones and the cam/timing gaskets, following the torque spec as well as tighten pattern. Still leaking... let me know what you find, I'm going to be taking a look again coming week
i did get a video of the leak, but it for some reason can not be uploaded

Logan Scheres

I just bought the car, they replaced the valve cover gaskets last week and said the headbolts looked like the new ones but forgot to take a picture before sealing it up. I'm skeptical so I may redo the job in the future. Noticed the leak is still there so I'll be looking into it myself. My power steering pump makes noise but they said it had been replaced recently so I'm hoping it's just air that needs bleed out. Hopefully they used the correct power steering fluid. I get a second or two or rattle on a cold start so I'm gonna plan to check out the lifters at some point soon. It's got 110k miles and was only 12.5k so it was a decent deal even with the issues. Also have a bad rear sam module I'll be removing and cleaning on Sunday along with new fuel injectors for peace of mind. Hoping that's all I'll need to do for a while lol. Lost my e500 wagon in a wreck last month and this was the only thing I could find to replace it that I liked and wasn't 25k+. I'll definitely post my findings and take good pictures. Sounds like our leaks are very similar.

Logan Scheres

so its hard to tell because theres oil everywhere even though i just cleaned it but I'm wondering if its the oil cooler lines? I'm attempting to clean the rear sam and am taking a look while its drying out. Going to go wash the motor again and drive slowly back to my shop and see if i can see anything new.

E55Greasemonkey

Check the oil cooler lines going into the side of the block on the driver's side. Also could be the oil pressure check valve, very hard to see behind the timing cover bracket for the power steering pump. It's a big job to replace properly which requires removal of the complete timing cover, however someone posted on here you can grind out an opening on the bracket to replace this o-ring.
Power steering noise- if the fluid is full but aerated you'll need a new reservoir. There is a filter inside which clogs and causes this problem. I just replaced mine @ 77k miles.

Logan Scheres

I know I've seen that post about the oil pressure check valve but now I can't find it lol. And yeah I just ordered a new power steering reservoir and will do a flush. Definitely has air in it. I got a bunch out going lock to lock with the engine off. It's better but still groans. No noise when it's cold, just once it's warmed up.

I'll dig into the leak more this weekend. I get a rattle on random warm start ups, not when cold so that's strange lol. Makes me think the pressure check valve is the issue.

E55Greasemonkey

Here ya go:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ming-case.html


Also, be sure to use the MB gold colored steering fluid, not the green Pentosin which
is often incorrectly suggested for the 164 chassis

bensitto

There's an issue with this engine and the factory head bolts. They corrode and go bad, there's an update with corrects the problem. Engine needs to be pulled for the job, sometimes there's lifters and other issues that need to be changed along with the head bolts, sometimes timing chain as well. Get a certified Mercedes master technician to check it out, It's a pricey fix but you'll be enjoying that engine when its done. 👌🏼

Logan Scheres

I'm almost positive you can change the head bolts without pulling the motor. You can even do them one at a time if they will all come out, but if one breaks you gotta pull the head. Which can be done without pulling the motor. And these bolts don't cause an oil leak but cause coolant to leak into the oil and pistons. I'm pretty sure my motor has already had these changed but I'm going to change in a few months when I remove the valve covers.

Also to the main topic of this thread I fixed my oil leak, mostly lol. Front leak was my oil housing seal, easy fix. But my oil cooler lines are also leaking, not a huge deal since they don't leak oil onto anything just down the block and on the ground. To fix those I'll need to pull the ac compressor and replace the seals. From what I've read it's kind of a pain in the *** so I'll put that job off for a while. I'm more worried about my cam adjusters currently. They don't rattle much but they do rattle on the occasional start up.

bensitto

Good luck with the rest of your repairs Logan.👌🏼

jburns3

Any other fixes to this issue?
2011 ML63AMG, plastic valve covers, new style head bolts
Valve covers were leaking, installed new seals
Drivers side now has a small leak which appears at the rear of the valve cover between the two rear bolts, drips onto exhaust.
What is the proper torque for the plastic covers? Possibly need retorquing after 500 miles?

S K

Hey man, check to see if the plastic valve covers have any cracks