MBWorld.org Members:

The KLEEMANN Alloy pulley for M111 eninges (W203 Kompressor Coupe, other chassis build date > 7/00) is now available.

EvoSport has a special offer for you. Place your order with EvoSPort before July 12th and recieve the system for $799 (regularly $899).

 

Front:

 

Looks different than the original pulley you showed us before. I guess you decided to go with a steel band where the pulley rubs against the seal like the ASP pulley. I didn't care for the old design myself. All I can say about your pulley is it's ugly, too many holes (LOL!).

 

Pardon me for asking, but just how can a simple pulley improve performance so much and also why didn't MB get it right in the first place? TIA

 

Dude, how do you expect them to be able to sell the V6 if they make the 4 cylinder more powerful then the V6 and it cost less? You have no clue on how the Supercharger/Turbo work do you?

 

Can someone plse explain what a pulley kit does or how it works ?

 

The larger diameter crankshaft pulley increases the speed of the drive belt, which in turn increases the rotational speed of the supercharger. The supercharger then pumps more air at a higher pressure.

The pulley in question only works on the supercharged four cylinder engine in the C230k and the SLK230.

 

Ah! Thanks Lynn! My world makes sense again.

 

Dont you mean you get a smaller size pulley upgrade so that it spins faster and gives more boost?

 

Nope, to make the SC-pulley spin faster you either replace the SC-pulley with a smaller one or the crank-pulley with a larger one.

 

Can this Alloy Pulley be used on C200Kompressor (W203) ??

If not, does Kleemann make one for C200K ??

Thanks

 

A few people have put the C230K pulleys on the C200K. Search the W203 forum.

 

Yes- this pulley will work on the 200.

 

I don't see a harmonic balancer on that pulley. Renntech says you will damage your engine without one. What's Kleeman's opinion?

 

There are 2 types of pulley kits for your car. You have the completely new lightweight alloy pulleys from ASP and Kleemann and you have the rest which all seem to be a factory pulley with a ring attached. The ring attachment varies from screws, welding and pressed on. This was the cheapest easiest way to make a pulley because if doesn't take much effort. So each type has to bash the other type, in marketing terms this is referred to as FUD (fear - uncertainty - doubt). It's the object of a marketing group to spread as much FUD about the other companies product as possible. So someone that only makes a ring add on may say that if you get a solid pulley your engine will explode. Believe me, your engine has a much greated chance of self destructing from running way too lean from a pulley than from a little harmonic vibration, an a/f ratio was only addressed by Wetteraur until I forced the issue into the limelight.

So the question remains what is the Harmonic Balancer and what will it do to my engine if it's not right. First off, the harmonic balancer is a ring that is pressed on to the back of the factory pulley and it has a strip of rubber to absorb the harmonic at the frequency that is stamped on the ring. The pulley is a solid piece of metal from the crank to the belt otherwise so all vibrations from the belt are directly transmitted to the crankshaft. Now imagine adding a 2 lb ring to the outermost edge of the pulley spinning at 6,000 rpm. The harmonic balancer was not designed to take on this additional weight and forces so the value of the balancer's ability to dampen then harmonics at the designed frequency have been compromised. Now I can't speak for Kleemann but the harmonics have been taken into consideration into the design of the ASP alloy pulley and that's why there's a band of weight near the back of the pulley to dampen the vibrations at those frequencies.

The advantage of the solid alloy pulleys is power, about 9 HP based on Kleemann's own tests. Now think of what you would have to do to get 9 more HP if you chose a ring pulley, maybe a chip, an intercooler, exhaust, intake. Anything you do to make more power creates more risks but to me a lightened crank pulley I think is less risk because a) it can not come apart like a pressed or screwed on pulley, b) less weight on the bearings and seals.

 

Buellwinkle,
Please stop misinforming people on this post. Your assumptions are wrong in most areas here. Do not try and scare them from the ring type as it is the better type for engine longevity, the harmonic balancer is not effected by the addition of the ring, it is seperate and maintains its function with the ring installed. Why are you spouting all this stuff if you don't know what you are talking about? Stick to something you know, like freebies.

 

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. If you prefer a certain type pulley, go for it. That's why there are choices. Both types of pulleys have been around for years for the SLK230 and C230K sedan. There are only two failures that I know of that people blamed on their pulley and both were with the ring type and both had to do with the S/C and not the crankshaft or bearings. If you are basing on actual failures on the 2.3L motor, please post them, I'm sure many would be interested regardless of the type of pulley.

 

Let me first say this: My opinion is just that- MY opinion.

We make both types of pulleys- keeping the standard pulley with damper and all alloy. A solution for each "camp".

We have been producing all alloy pulleys for the M111 Kompressor engine since 1998. Many of these "early cars" have upwards of 80K miles on them- none have had any failures of any kind.

It is impossible to remove natural freq's from a crankshaft- period. The question is how well engineered is the crank to withstand these twisting forces without the dampers help. Someone, somewhere though it important enough to have the damper at all- this says something. Is it a case of super safe, CYA from MBZ side- perhaps. Every component on the drivebelt system has a tiny "dampening" efect on the crank- enough? Perhaps- Time has proven to my satisfaction that there is no immediate or long term catostrophic failure to fear.

 

I've got +70k on my car w/ ~20k on the pulley, and I drive the **** out of it. Just ask some of the SOCAL benz guys from this forum or benzsport.com.

Yes, it's on a 202, but that doesn't change the testament for reliability it makes. I have had no problems with my car whatsoever. Just change the oil, and clean the air filter....... voila. KLEEMANN makes a quality product, plain and simple. The only complaint you'll hear from me is that I go through tires quicker (mostly the rear tires, though)



Oh yeah, howdy Brandon, long time no talk to. Give me a call sometime when you have a few minutes to chew the fat.


John.

 

Well, you guys only talk good thing about Kleemann but never talk bad things like f#$ck-up S/C. I know two people that their S/C is F#%cked !!

 

Because I don't know the bad things with the S/C pulley.


Just a tidbit for the nay-sayers (all of them, not just the KLEEMANN ones)


I'd like to slap your foreheads. THERE IS ALWAYS A FAIL RATE FOR A PRODUCT!!!!

The fact that you know two people that have had a problem is probably due to the fact that most of the KLEEMANN owners ARE ON THIS FORUM!!! Or one like it.

I know a bunch of people with no problems.

One thing to note is, IF YOU DON'T CHANGE YOUR OIL, OR CLEAN YOUR AIR FILTER REGULARLY, YOU WILL PROBABLY SEE TROUBLE,

And if you get a K&N filter CLEAN IT FIRST!!! Beacause the oil it is packed in is too much, you must clean it and reoil it before install to save your MAS.


I'm done, and tired


John.

 

WHO?

It never ceases to amaze me what you know. No one has brought this to my attention- who are they?

 

Kleemann,

Did you recieve my e-mail i sent two day ago? Let just say that both S/C went bad with the "ring" not too long after the installation but the alloy pulley is good so far with no problem what so ever. Isn't why you bought the Mercedes diagnostic computer?