Hetzle

So I've been tossing the idea around with my friends (who are all extremely car savvy) about supercharging or twin turbocharging my 1994 S420 to 4-6 psi (probably 4 to start). I talked the turbo idea over a bit with a few people and came up with this list:
Turbo:
Masterpower T70
12x1.5mm to 4 an conversion screw from pegasus racing.
4an oil feed line and flange for the turbo
10an oil drain line and flange for the turbo, modify the oil cap on the valve cover so the oil can return
Oil scavenge pump to pump the oil from the turbo back to the engine(check turbowerx on ebay or Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps)

Intake side:
4-7 ft of 2.25" intercooler piping in various angles(youll need to mock that up yourself so just by a bunch of random *** pieces lol)
Straight and 90 degree 2.25" intercooler couplings
Small front mount Intercooler(optional but makes more power)
Bosch BPV (its like a BOV except it recirculates the air back into the air box so the MAF doesnt get confused)
Aftermarket Airfilter with an Outerwears filter cover so it cant suck up water(my buddies GTO is a rear mount turbo and its been through pouring rain and snow no problem. Make sure you have the Outerwears filter cover!)

Exhaust side:
Youll need a shop to cut off your rear muffler or whole exhaust behind the exhuast and weld a T3 flange on for the turbo.
Short down pipe to the stock exhaust tip location from the turbo using a 3" V-band flange most likely.
38mm TiAl Wastegate(placed before the turbo, regulates the boost from the turbo)

Engine Management:
30 lbs injectors(Mustang 30lbs injectors fit)
Apexi SAFC or a AEM FIC-8. The FIC-8 about 600 dollars but its the best damn tuning computer short of a full standalone on the market. Its even got a electronic boost controller built in!

Which I ran through some other friends, and we came up with a few more things:
-AN10 lines for coolant to the turbo
-Blowthrough MAF, located after the BOV so I don't bleed off metered air
-44m wastegate
-Fuel pump
-4" exhaust to actually make power
-Second coolant pump if I can't tap into stock lines or it sits below the block

We figured a single turbo setup would cost nearly $6,000, a TT setup would cost a bit more but would be better for a V8.

After seeing the insane amount of work that would need to be done, I'd like to go the supercharger route, but I can't seem to find a small enough (read: short) supercharger that would fit under the hood.

If anyone has any ideas on which supercharger to use and could help write up a similar "To-Do" list, that would be amazing. Also corrections and input would be very much appreciated, this project is going to start and hopefully be finished during the summer of '09.

suprasv

If you do go the turbo route...
The MasterPower T70 turbo is too big for the psi you want to run. You can run a smaller turbo.
You will not need the 4" piping for your power levels.
Also I wouldn't worry about a water cooled turbo. An oil only would be fine.
You will not need the 44mm wastegate. Go with the smaller one.

IngenereAMG

You might be better off buying a newer 600tt or a 55AMG car. Those were designed from the outset to be FI. Then you can tune them from there to make them pretty aggressive!

Hetzle

What turbo would you recommend then?

This project will cost $6,000 at most, a new car will cost wayyyyyyyy more, especially a 55K/S600.

RENNSTAGE

its deff gona cost more than 6k when your all said and done

suprasv

Im not familiar with those benzes but has anyone actually done forced induction on that motor?

Fabricating the exhaust manifolds will probalby me a royal pain in the *** also...
I was going to recommed a smaller turbo like a 60mm but will that even fit under the hood anywhere?

You might say that a 600TT or 55K AMG car is too expensive but if you go with your project it might turn out to be a huge disaster...

I know tons of people that have bought naturally aspirated supras for $15K to try and save money versus the more expensive turbo model, and in the end when they have spent a ton of money to turbo the car they all wish they would have started with the Turbo model in the first place.

Keep us posted if you decide to do the project.

Hetzle

I don't know if anyone has done forced induction on the M119 other than Mercedes themselves for their race cars.

The prices of the parts I listed aren't that much, for all the parts it will be about $3-4k, labor from some of the shops will of course cost an assload, but a lot of it will be DIY work with friends who know their way around forced induction cars.

Also, I think we're going to make a custom sheetmetal manifold so we don't blow stuff up. The turbo was going to be a rear mount, I'd prefer to supercharge it but room is an issue.

EDIT~I was also talking to Thomas Knight Turbos about a belt driven turbo to avoid a bunch of major work, I think there's enough room in the front of my engine bay on one side for it.

Kwik SC

Why dont you just call up STS and find out if they have a kit that will come close to fitting on your car? And if you have room for a centrifugal supercharger on one side of the engine bay then you can certainly make a couple of cross over tubes to mount a nice sized turbo there..

And considering any standalone worth its weight is gonna cost you at minimum $2000 I dont see the $4k in parts or anywhere close to that.. Figure closer to $6-7k in parts when all is said and done and roughly $3k in labor.. Unless you do the welding yourself..

Hetzle

$2k on the standalone?
Don't remember which one this is, but it's $995 from Boosthead and he was gonna throw in some piping too.

Max Hughes (I think he's a member here too, he put together the initial list) was able to turbo his E320 for $2,500 and said my setup shouldn't cost much more.

Kwik SC

A $995 standalone will not offer you the tuneability of a $2000 Autronic. I dont care what it is.. Thats the bottom line.. Otherwise I would of said go buy a $300 Megasquirt system and call it a day.. Hey if you can do a turbo setup in your Benz for $3-4k then by all means.. I never knock bang-for-your-buck budget performance. The problem is long term driveability and reliability is where the corner cutting shows..