Engine heat reduction from tubular exhaust headers?
#1
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Here's a quick question for the more knowledgeable motorheads here. As anyone who's seen them know, the stock 209 CLK55 exhaust manifolds are pretty pathetic looking, being a "log" type of manifold with no real primaries to speak of. I know that looks can be deceiving, but I have to think that they don't flow very well at all. I'm seriously considering buying a supercharger from either Kleeman or HPS, but one of my biggest concerns is reliabilty, and specifically the higher engine temperatures that forced induction brings...
So I'm trying to think of as many ideas as I can as to how the engine temps can be reduced, and among other ideas, it occured to me that nice, tubular, equal-length exhaust headers may help reduce engine heat in addition to providing a little bit more power...
My theory, and question here is that since "backpressure" really is just extremely hot exhaust gases, wouldn't evacuating them help the engine run cooler, especially if backpressure is finding it's way back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap? I'm assuming that the cats are probably the biggest restriction, and I would most likely replace those as well, but I'm wondering if the increased distance from the exhaust port to the cats themselves may be enough to produce a drop in exhaust temperature
?
Obviously a larger radiator would be the best way to reduce engine temperatures, I don't know of anyone that makes one. What I would like to accomplish is to bring the engine temperature back down to stock levels after the compressor has been installed...
Any ideas? Do I have too much time on my hands?
Best regards,
Matt
So I'm trying to think of as many ideas as I can as to how the engine temps can be reduced, and among other ideas, it occured to me that nice, tubular, equal-length exhaust headers may help reduce engine heat in addition to providing a little bit more power...
My theory, and question here is that since "backpressure" really is just extremely hot exhaust gases, wouldn't evacuating them help the engine run cooler, especially if backpressure is finding it's way back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap? I'm assuming that the cats are probably the biggest restriction, and I would most likely replace those as well, but I'm wondering if the increased distance from the exhaust port to the cats themselves may be enough to produce a drop in exhaust temperature
![crazy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/crazy.gif)
Obviously a larger radiator would be the best way to reduce engine temperatures, I don't know of anyone that makes one. What I would like to accomplish is to bring the engine temperature back down to stock levels after the compressor has been installed...
Any ideas? Do I have too much time on my hands?
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Best regards,
Matt
Last edited by AMG///Merc; 10-27-2004 at 04:34 AM.
#2
Well a good friend of mine has a Kleeman SC'd 2001 CLK55. This setup is very nice except for the waterpump design. I just removed the whole SC from the car. It should be getting sent back to Kleepman this week for replacement. Anyway, as for cooling, the car runs very well with this kit installed, no signs of the cooling system not being able to keep up.
Some things that you might want to conisder when adding the SC, just replace your coolant with a higher percentage of water in the mix. Just watch your freezing temps.
Also, im sure these are included with the kit, but a heat range cooler spark plugs.
And finally, for your headers, you should consider getting them coated, this will keep the heat in your exhaust and out of the engine bay. This also improves the flow of hot exhaust gases out of the car, which will make you more power.
Some things that you might want to conisder when adding the SC, just replace your coolant with a higher percentage of water in the mix. Just watch your freezing temps.
Also, im sure these are included with the kit, but a heat range cooler spark plugs.
And finally, for your headers, you should consider getting them coated, this will keep the heat in your exhaust and out of the engine bay. This also improves the flow of hot exhaust gases out of the car, which will make you more power.
#3
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08 Silver Lexus IS250 (manual),73 air cooled super beetle-- black 2004 230 ss is gone
You can wrap the headers for about $50. This shud lower temp in engine compartment and you s/b able to find wrap in any speed shop
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'07 Carrera S, '31 A 5W hot rod, 4Runner. Sold CLK55
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Originally Posted by Rocket SLC
Well a good friend of mine has a Kleeman SC'd 2001 CLK55. This setup is very nice except for the waterpump design. I just removed the whole SC from the car. It should be getting sent back to Kleepman this week for replacement.
What happened with the SC??
As for the headers, that would be the first thing I would replace on my 02 CLK55 but the only place I've found that makes them are Kleemann, and theirs are 'shorty headers' unequal length, and along with the down tubes are $3,200!! Headers for any domestic V-8 run about $700. So I'm stuck with the log-type design as well.
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AMG 55, 335i, Mini Cooper S
Originally Posted by H-MAN
What happened with the SC??
As for the headers, that would be the first thing I would replace on my 02 CLK55 but the only place I've found that makes them are Kleemann, and theirs are 'shorty headers' unequal length, and along with the down tubes are $3,200!! Headers for any domestic V-8 run about $700. So I'm stuck with the log-type design as well.
As for the headers, that would be the first thing I would replace on my 02 CLK55 but the only place I've found that makes them are Kleemann, and theirs are 'shorty headers' unequal length, and along with the down tubes are $3,200!! Headers for any domestic V-8 run about $700. So I'm stuck with the log-type design as well.
Does anyone know what kinds of gains I would expect, HP & TQ with Evosport shorty headers with a N/A motor. I'm just wondering if it worth the money for the gain.
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AMG 55, 335i, Mini Cooper S
Originally Posted by AMG///Merc
Here's a quick question for the more knowledgeable motorheads here. As anyone who's seen them know, the stock 209 CLK55 exhaust manifolds are pretty pathetic looking, being a "log" type of manifold with no real primaries to speak of. I know that looks can be deceiving, but I have to think that they don't flow very well at all. I'm seriously considering buying a supercharger from either Kleeman or HPS, but one of my biggest concerns is reliabilty, and specifically the higher engine temperatures that forced induction brings...
So I'm trying to think of as many ideas as I can as to how the engine temps can be reduced, and among other ideas, it occured to me that nice, tubular, equal-length exhaust headers may help reduce engine heat in addition to providing a little bit more power...
My theory, and question here is that since "backpressure" really is just extremely hot exhaust gases, wouldn't evacuating them help the engine run cooler, especially if backpressure is finding it's way back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap? I'm assuming that the cats are probably the biggest restriction, and I would most likely replace those as well, but I'm wondering if the increased distance from the exhaust port to the cats themselves may be enough to produce a drop in exhaust temperature
?
Obviously a larger radiator would be the best way to reduce engine temperatures, I don't know of anyone that makes one. What I would like to accomplish is to bring the engine temperature back down to stock levels after the compressor has been installed...
Any ideas? Do I have too much time on my hands?
Best regards,
Matt
So I'm trying to think of as many ideas as I can as to how the engine temps can be reduced, and among other ideas, it occured to me that nice, tubular, equal-length exhaust headers may help reduce engine heat in addition to providing a little bit more power...
My theory, and question here is that since "backpressure" really is just extremely hot exhaust gases, wouldn't evacuating them help the engine run cooler, especially if backpressure is finding it's way back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap? I'm assuming that the cats are probably the biggest restriction, and I would most likely replace those as well, but I'm wondering if the increased distance from the exhaust port to the cats themselves may be enough to produce a drop in exhaust temperature
![crazy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/crazy.gif)
Obviously a larger radiator would be the best way to reduce engine temperatures, I don't know of anyone that makes one. What I would like to accomplish is to bring the engine temperature back down to stock levels after the compressor has been installed...
Any ideas? Do I have too much time on my hands?
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Best regards,
Matt
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'87 300D - 1995 M3
I know more about American V8's, but long tubes are really the only way to go. Shorty headers really wont gain you much, and it definately isnt worth 2k to put them on.
Just my .02
Just my .02
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#8
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FX35 plus
I suffered engine heat after S/Ced.
Coolant temp went upto 98+ C in a traffic & hot summer day (> 38 C)
I don't quite understand, a smaller engine bay like C32
with higher boost stay cooler than my W209 + K.
C32 keeps good 90C pretty in the same above condition.
Here are my solution
(1) Headers/cats upgrade,they provide better flow to move the heat quickly as your theory said.
(2) Extra radiator for engine cooling (not I/C)
(3) Partial heat shield on the headers
Now I enjoy driving it in summer, the coolant temp keeps
well under 92 C.
I did another test to prove that factory exhaust is a
bottleneck.
Vmax running,it pushed the engine to its limit & the charged engine w stock exhaust
burn the coolant temp over 100C which is the vapor point
of pure water.
With my solution, it stays 95C, the heat is moved efficiently & keep my HEART cool
Coolant temp went upto 98+ C in a traffic & hot summer day (> 38 C)
![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
I don't quite understand, a smaller engine bay like C32
with higher boost stay cooler than my W209 + K.
C32 keeps good 90C pretty in the same above condition.
Here are my solution
(1) Headers/cats upgrade,they provide better flow to move the heat quickly as your theory said.
(2) Extra radiator for engine cooling (not I/C)
(3) Partial heat shield on the headers
Now I enjoy driving it in summer, the coolant temp keeps
well under 92 C.
I did another test to prove that factory exhaust is a
bottleneck.
Vmax running,it pushed the engine to its limit & the charged engine w stock exhaust
burn the coolant temp over 100C which is the vapor point
of pure water.
With my solution, it stays 95C, the heat is moved efficiently & keep my HEART cool
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#9
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FX35 plus
anthoer crazy idea I've done to my car, FYR
Copy the CLK-DTM solution, I put a 25L (twice capacity as factory coolant) water tank in the spare tire well, hook up a pump & pipes thru side skirts,
connect it to the engine cooling system, the pump switch is in the ashtray.
this's a super cooling loop used in case factory cooling can't hold the temp anymore after very hard driving
or Vmax running.
it drops the coolant temp as low as you have just cold started the engine in the morning
Too complicate + reliability concern this loop maybe, I removed them when the new solution came out.
Copy the CLK-DTM solution, I put a 25L (twice capacity as factory coolant) water tank in the spare tire well, hook up a pump & pipes thru side skirts,
connect it to the engine cooling system, the pump switch is in the ashtray.
this's a super cooling loop used in case factory cooling can't hold the temp anymore after very hard driving
or Vmax running.
it drops the coolant temp as low as you have just cold started the engine in the morning
Too complicate + reliability concern this loop maybe, I removed them when the new solution came out.
#10
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Originally Posted by E55Cent
Matt I was just wondering why would want to supercharger your CLK 55 with a Kleeman or HPS, isn't your car factory supercharged or did I miss something?
Best regards,
Matt
#11
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Originally Posted by Shine_1023
I suffered engine heat after S/Ced.
Coolant temp went upto 98+ C in a traffic & hot summer day (> 38 C)
I don't quite understand, a smaller engine bay like C32
with higher boost stay cooler than my W209 + K.
C32 keeps good 90C pretty in the same above condition.
Here are my solution
(1) Headers/cats upgrade,they provide better flow to move the heat quickly as your theory said.
(2) Extra radiator for engine cooling (not I/C)
(3) Partial heat shield on the headers
Now I enjoy driving it in summer, the coolant temp keeps
well under 92 C.
I did another test to prove that factory exhaust is a
bottleneck.
Vmax running,it pushed the engine to its limit & the charged engine w stock exhaust
burn the coolant temp over 100C which is the vapor point
of pure water.
With my solution, it stays 95C, the heat is moved efficiently & keep my HEART cool![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Coolant temp went upto 98+ C in a traffic & hot summer day (> 38 C)
![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
I don't quite understand, a smaller engine bay like C32
with higher boost stay cooler than my W209 + K.
C32 keeps good 90C pretty in the same above condition.
Here are my solution
(1) Headers/cats upgrade,they provide better flow to move the heat quickly as your theory said.
(2) Extra radiator for engine cooling (not I/C)
(3) Partial heat shield on the headers
Now I enjoy driving it in summer, the coolant temp keeps
well under 92 C.
I did another test to prove that factory exhaust is a
bottleneck.
Vmax running,it pushed the engine to its limit & the charged engine w stock exhaust
burn the coolant temp over 100C which is the vapor point
of pure water.
With my solution, it stays 95C, the heat is moved efficiently & keep my HEART cool
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Best regards,
Matt
#12
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AMG 55, 335i, Mini Cooper S
Originally Posted by AMG///Merc
I apologize for the late response, and thanks for the suggestions. I'm still on the fence about the whole supercharger idea. The dilema is A.) The Money, as in I really shouldn't spend as much money that is really needed to supercharge a car properly, and B.) I'm debating about possibly getting the new M5 when that comes out. Note that I realize that the M5 isn't the "torque monster" that I described in my post above, but for that car with that engine, I'll make an exception. The latter diilema wouldn't be one if wasn't for the M5's rumored $90000 MSRP. Allot of things will need to come together for that to happen, and I'm guessing that I'll need at least $40k to get into one, whereas I could make my CLK55 faster than the M5 for half that amount. I don't know. It seems like I change my mind every hour, so for now I'm just going to sit on it, at least until I learn more about HPS's new intercooled supercharger. I know that the Kleeman system is without any doubt a fantastic system, but I believe that the people at HPS, are very sharp, and I really like their philosophy of making Benz tuning available to the masses. From what pictures that I'ver seen of their previous kits, it looks like they are of excellent craftmanship and quality. I'm looking forward to hearing more about it. Once again, thanks everyone for your input!
Best regards,
Matt
Best regards,
Matt
I love BMW's and often miss my 540i and still dream abount owning an M5. The BMW is a much better handling car, but it is not as well built as MB. The new M5 will be at least 90K but the waiting list is fairly long so just getting your hands on one might be impossible unless you pay 20-30k over. If I were you I would get the HPS system (even though Adam never returns calls) with headers, the car will be plenty fast, you might even have to upgrade your brakes to handle the power. MB are wonderful cars for comfort, power, torque and class, but handling and good driver feed back is not one of them. If want a very fast car with great looks, stick with your car a supercharge it
My 2 1/2 cents