Brake Pad changing procedure??
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 37
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From: Dana Point, CA
Brake Pad changing procedure??
Hi,
I just got a lift installed in my garage and was considering changing the brake pads on my 96 S420.
I assume the only specialty tool I'll need is the brake pad pin 4mm punch tool (as sold on performance products site)
Also a new set of pads for 50 dollars f/r.
Has anyone done this themselves at home? I'd just like to save the 500 dollars the dealer quoted me and do it one sunday afternoon.
Thanks,
Chris
I just got a lift installed in my garage and was considering changing the brake pads on my 96 S420.
I assume the only specialty tool I'll need is the brake pad pin 4mm punch tool (as sold on performance products site)
Also a new set of pads for 50 dollars f/r.
Has anyone done this themselves at home? I'd just like to save the 500 dollars the dealer quoted me and do it one sunday afternoon.
Thanks,
Chris
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 48
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From: Hermitage Tn
96 S600C
I have done the rear pads on mine. It was very easy. Depending on if you have hit the wear sensor or not that would be the only other item you will need. I used a Dremel/drill to make the hole in the pad for the sensor since the ones I bought did not have the opening.
$500 seems a little high to me. I know pads from the my dealer are about $100 a pair but an additional 300 for labor for something that could be done in less than an hour in a shop with lift.
$500 seems a little high to me. I know pads from the my dealer are about $100 a pair but an additional 300 for labor for something that could be done in less than an hour in a shop with lift.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 713
Likes: 147
From: Aridzona
'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
I have for 15 years now, changed the pads on my MB's with a pair of channel lock pliers ( for compressing the pistons) and a carpenter's nail set (for removing the pins). I have found that it is far better to spend the extra $$ on the quality of the parts than to spend it on the tools I can improvise. The only MB I have owned that has required other tools is my 1987 300E, with the awful single-piston sliding caliper, pyech!
One tool not mentioned here is a caliper for measuring rotor thickness. This is pretty important as overworn rotors are likely to warp and will not resist fade as well.
Regards,
-D
One tool not mentioned here is a caliper for measuring rotor thickness. This is pretty important as overworn rotors are likely to warp and will not resist fade as well.
Regards,
-D
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Joined: Dec 2003
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theres a pictorial how-to on a UK site for rear disks - http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5654
very similar for fonts - without the hassle of the brake drum bit..
very similar for fonts - without the hassle of the brake drum bit..
Thread Starter
Almost a Member!
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 37
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From: Dana Point, CA
Originally posted by MRNRL
I have done the rear pads on mine. It was very easy. Depending on if you have hit the wear sensor or not that would be the only other item you will need. I used a Dremel/drill to make the hole in the pad for the sensor since the ones I bought did not have the opening.
$500 seems a little high to me. I know pads from the my dealer are about $100 a pair but an additional 300 for labor for something that could be done in less than an hour in a shop with lift.
I have done the rear pads on mine. It was very easy. Depending on if you have hit the wear sensor or not that would be the only other item you will need. I used a Dremel/drill to make the hole in the pad for the sensor since the ones I bought did not have the opening.
$500 seems a little high to me. I know pads from the my dealer are about $100 a pair but an additional 300 for labor for something that could be done in less than an hour in a shop with lift.
The ones I am buying are from Performance Products, 60 bucks for the fronts and 40 for the rear (2 pair).
It looks pretty easy to do myself.
Has anyone cracked a piston in the caliper? This is my only concern as I don't want to have to rebuild the caliper?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Aridzona
'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
I have never cracked a piston in a caliper. The only trouble I have had doing this is I once had the head of the bleeder screw break off while I was loosening it. 
Fortunately it was a rear caliper for my 500SL and on the front, so it was under $100 to replace.
If you go slow and steady while retracting the pistons (4 each up front, 2 each in the rear) you should have no problems. But remember, you are moving a LOT of fluid somewhere, so check level in the resevior requently. You may even want to siphon some out before you start so that you don't ruin your paint.
Regards,
-D
Fortunately it was a rear caliper for my 500SL and on the front, so it was under $100 to replace. If you go slow and steady while retracting the pistons (4 each up front, 2 each in the rear) you should have no problems. But remember, you are moving a LOT of fluid somewhere, so check level in the resevior requently. You may even want to siphon some out before you start so that you don't ruin your paint.
Regards,
-D
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