S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Control Arms and Ball Joints

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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 03:02 PM
  #1  
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2004 S500 4Matic
Control Arms and Ball Joints

I've owned the car for 1 month, brought it into the MB dealership for the scheduled oil/service, and they called me today explaining to me I need new front ball joints and control arms. Funny thing is, I didn't even know! I went from a STS to the 04' S500, and I was amazed at the ride, now I find out that it might feel even better!
Is this a common repair for this car? I guessing that the weight of the vehicle has something to do with it. And does anyone know if they are going to be replacing them with a "better" engineered solution so I do not have to worry about this down the road? (Extended Warranty Buy or No Buy)
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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Get the extended warranty!!!!!!!! I've gone through 4 control arms on my car, but I think the roads in Jersey and NYC had a lot to do with that. The car will ride better, but not by much (it rides great already).

Congrats on the 04, and best of luck with the ownership!

Oh, P.S. I don't think they are better engineered. When I hear a very dull and faint rattle, I know it's time to get new control arms put on. Thank God this car is still under warranty. You have an 04, so your should be MUCH more reliable!

Last edited by ex-BenzDriver9; Mar 1, 2007 at 04:22 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by LoganS500
I've owned the car for 1 month, brought it into the MB dealership for the scheduled oil/service, and they called me today explaining to me I need new front ball joints and control arms. Funny thing is, I didn't even know! I went from a STS to the 04' S500, and I was amazed at the ride, now I find out that it might feel even better!
Is this a common repair for this car? I guessing that the weight of the vehicle has something to do with it. And does anyone know if they are going to be replacing them with a "better" engineered solution so I do not have to worry about this down the road? (Extended Warranty Buy or No Buy)
Holy Crap!!! How many miles on your car?
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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I've gone through my second repair of the same problem. At 48K miles and now at 90K. This time they replaced the ball joints, control arms, the sway bar was bent, airmatic issues were also repaired, radiator fan replaced, struts repaired, and other stuff. Not fun. No wonder we rank dead last in reliability.

http://autos.aol.com/article/general...01102009990002
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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ball joints and control arms are very common replacement items on the S class. If it doesn't make any noise and doesn't bother you, leave it alone until it makes a clank everytime you go over a bump.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 05:25 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by kenstudios
I've gone through my second repair of the same problem. At 48K miles and now at 90K. This time they replaced the ball joints, control arms, the sway bar was bent, airmatic issues were also repaired, radiator fan replaced, struts repaired, and other stuff. Not fun. No wonder we rank dead last in reliability.

http://autos.aol.com/article/general...01102009990002
Kia and Land Rover beat us. What a proud moment...
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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I don't know what's going on any more. My Dad has an '06 Chevy Silverado that just had to have both tie rod ends replaced so it could hold front end allignment!!

This kind of stuff drives me nuts. It's engineering(or lack of) and parts suppliers fudging the specifications...pisses me off.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 04:39 AM
  #8  
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My case

I had my ball joints, left/ right replaced with Genuine TWR ones and both of the control arms 2 weeks ago.

Left Control Arm had good crack in its rubber bushing, and right one was clearly starting to develop some cracks. Right thrust arm was good as new, but left one was starting to develop some crack on the bushing.

As for the ball joint, both had bit of play that could have been verified by jiggling tires w/o any load on it.

DAMN... The creaking noise when going over the bump is still there...

SO I tried spraying some silicon lube to sway bar bushing, and its end link - which did not work. I tried spraying some German-made PTFE (Teflon) based lube, "Superlube" onto the same components - and VOILA- it's gone!

After so much work, I guess it was simple as that...

Now, after so much suspension/brake works, I guess it's time for an alignment. My car's got some wrong toe, caster, camber angles right - so it has tendency to bump steer (tramline).

Well, hope I don't encounter any more problems with this thing :-)

Alex
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 09:49 AM
  #9  
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I only have 33K miles on it, so I was surprised that this happended. Good news, I guess, is that it is a common problem with the car, so it is not a situation where my ride might have been abused. The MB records are impecable for the vehicle, and I knew who drove it (Mom and 1 child most of the time)
I think this solidifies my decision on the extended warranty, it is a must have.
Any other "normal" repairs that I should be looking/listening for? I read airmatic above, but it all honesty if the car isn't low riding I wouldn't know how to diagnose that issue.
Tks for the info, it is great to have a resource like this.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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What are some of the obvious symptoms of these issues?
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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noises coming when going over any bumps.
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LoganS500
I only have 33K miles on it, so I was surprised that this happended. Good news, I guess, is that it is a common problem with the car, so it is not a situation where my ride might have been abused. The MB records are impecable for the vehicle, and I knew who drove it (Mom and 1 child most of the time)
I think this solidifies my decision on the extended warranty, it is a must have.
Any other "normal" repairs that I should be looking/listening for? I read airmatic above, but it all honesty if the car isn't low riding I wouldn't know how to diagnose that issue.
Tks for the info, it is great to have a resource like this.
Dont worry about diagnostics on airmatic. You will know when the time comes. Your ride will be dead on the ground and you cant get it to "wake up."
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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u know i dont ever mind replacing the ball joints because when ever i see a bump comming up my car doesnt even bounce or jump.it just glides over it as if its nothing. these things give the ride its main comfort.
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 01:50 AM
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price...

What's the average price for replacing ball joints and control arms? dealer and local mb shops.

RICH
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 10:21 AM
  #15  
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2005 S500 4matic
Exclamation

Originally Posted by qriousrich
What's the average price for replacing ball joints and control arms? dealer and local mb shops.

RICH
Left & Right Upper Control Arms are $290+ each (through various online authorized OEM parts re-sellers)


Left & Right Lower Control Arms are $270+ each


Ball Joints are $40-$50 each.


Stabilizer Bars replaced every 100.000 km (Dymler-Chrysler suggestion) but most dealerships suggest you replace it along with everything said above.

That's about all. Not counting labor per hour.

P.S. Love your Designo color on the inside and outside, but not the wheels, sorry

Last edited by Singularity; Mar 13, 2007 at 10:27 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 01:58 PM
  #16  
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Mercedes Benz S430
Common problem for 220 model

I noticed a very slight vibration on the drivers front when I purchased my 2001 S430 a few months ago. The dealer couldnt tell but I'm fussy and I could hear it whenever the car went over a bump. The drivers side control arm was replaced along with another part and that fixed the problem. My MBZ mechanic told me it has been a common problem with the 220 model. I think it will come up every 50K miles or so, no big deal.
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 05:06 PM
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Are these DIYable repairs?
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 01:27 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by newton22
Are these DIYable repairs?
I guess not. Since you're going to need special tools with several tons of force to remove ball joints (some mechanics use hammer ) and some knowledge to replace control arms. So I wouldn't say it's a Do It Yourself job.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 02:48 AM
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i would say if you had access to a press, you would be able to do it yourself.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 08:54 AM
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Just out of curiosity, are the upper and lower control arms usually replaced as a unit with the bushings intact or does the shop re-bush the existing control arm?

Seems to me that if this is a unit replacement a DIY person could purchase upper and lower units for both sides along with upper and lower ball joints, take them to a machine shop & have the ball joints pressed in,,,then you would have a bolt in job.

This looks like an opportunity for some sharp after market guy to come up with some "bullit proof" replacement pieces superior to the OEM. As these cars age and the initial purchase price continues to fall prospects for high quality suspension mods increase.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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To change the ball joint, you can go on Ebay and buy the W220 ball joint press tool, don't use a universal ball joint tool from AutoZone unless you are taking the calipers off and then taking the knuckle arm off the vehicle. The W220 ball joint tool runs for about $100 on Ebay.

It takes about 1 hour to do each side, taking into account that you can loosen the tapered ball joint stem from the control arms.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 03:14 PM
  #22  
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Post

Originally Posted by sprink49
Just out of curiosity, are the upper and lower control arms usually replaced as a unit with the bushings intact or does the shop re-bush the existing control arm?

Seems to me that if this is a unit replacement a DIY person could purchase upper and lower units for both sides along with upper and lower ball joints, take them to a machine shop & have the ball joints pressed in,,,then you would have a bolt in job.

This looks like an opportunity for some sharp after market guy to come up with some "bullit proof" replacement pieces superior to the OEM. As these cars age and the initial purchase price continues to fall prospects for high quality suspension mods increase.
As for the question. Upper Control arm replaced as a unit. For Lower Control Arm you can stick with bushings replacement only. Sold as a kit. Example:

http://catalog.drivewire.com/drivewi...rm+Bushing+Kit



If you want bullet proof suspension then you should have bought W140. It's true bullet proof in tandem with W463.

I do know theres aftermarket ball joints available from Audi Sport Division (dont remember manufacturer name) that perfectly match ours W220. Some of those have plugs in rubber seal that you remove, squeeze in some silicon grease once every 6 months and you're good to go.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 08:38 PM
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The metalurgy in the upper control arm must be crappy for it to need replacementat any time during the life of the vehicle. I'm surprised some of the after market guys haven't developed some HD forged steel pieces to replace the upper and lower cotrol arm assy's.

Even C4 & C5 'vettes with a comparible set up never had that kind of problem.

Some one needs to come up with a work around for this (Renntech, Kleenman, etc.)
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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I think I have a control arm/ball joint problem but Im not sure. I hear knocking noises sometimes when I go over bumpy roads but the nocking noises go away for a while, a few days or even weeks, then return again, so could this problem be something else besides the control arm/ball joints?
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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Replaced

Had mine replaced twice already.
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