Trunk soft close?
You can hear the motor attempting to pull it down, but nothing happens. If you push down on the lid, it will latch.
Any ideas for why this would happen?
Im hoping its not a PSE pump problem, but rather a leak in the line to the trunk or something resettable.
Its worked perfectly fine until just now.
thanks
Otherwise, I'll have to check the air lines.
I don't have time to go to the dealer either.
You can hear the motor attempting to pull it down, but nothing happens. If you push down on the lid, it will latch.
Any ideas for why this would happen?
Im hoping its not a PSE pump problem, but rather a leak in the line to the trunk or something resettable.
Its worked perfectly fine until just now.
thanks
Most likely the locking pump and/or connections to pump have failed you, as the doors still work it is not the PSE. Pull back the Trunk lining and inspect all connections for leaks.
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I just had this issue and I replaced my trunk Lock because it was leaking causing the soft close not to work. I did notice that on the new part there had been a sight modification and a part number change I hope it was for the better.
IT is a very easy DIY but there are two parts and they are both pretty expensive so make sure that you change the correct part.
The first part ( I don't know if your care has this ), is the retractable door handle. This pops out and in when you open and close the trunk, and also houses the button where you open the trunk from the outside, and the keylock. Cost is about $250.
The second ( about $250 ) part is the Latch assy. This is the part that I replaced. There is a big vacuum cylinder and another small cylinder attached to this part with a metal ball seal on the end. This is what is used to pull the vacuum for the soft closing. If it has a leak it will not soft close and will shut down the pump's output for that part.
After you replace the latch you will have to pull the PSE pump fuse located at the rear passenger seat for about a minute and reinsert it for the trunk softclose to resume functionality. IT normally will have shut down the circuit as a safety if there was a leak detected.
This is why you read post that people have reset their fuse and their system started working again. Be cautious of simply pulling the fuse as a final fix because you may find yourself needing a new PSE pump if the leak isn't corrected.
IT takes about 30 minutes to change the Latch out DIY.
The latch assy has about 7 part numbers and are VIN specific so remember to have your VIN when you go get the part. I was surprised that my local dealer stocked this item.. HMMMM I wonder why..
I just had this issue and I replaced my trunk Lock because it was leaking causing the soft close not to work. I did notice that on the new part there had been a sight modification and a part number change I hope it was for the better.
IT is a very easy DIY but there are two parts and they are both pretty expensive so make sure that you change the correct part.
The first part ( I don't know if your care has this ), is the retractable door handle. This pops out and in when you open and close the trunk, and also houses the button where you open the trunk from the outside, and the keylock. Cost is about $250.
The second ( about $250 ) part is the Latch assy. This is the part that I replaced. There is a big vacuum cylinder and another small cylinder attached to this part with a metal ball seal on the end. This is what is used to pull the vacuum for the soft closing. If it has a leak it will not soft close and will shut down the pump's output for that part.
After you replace the latch you will have to pull the PSE pump fuse located at the rear passenger seat for about a minute and reinsert it for the trunk softclose to resume functionality. IT normally will have shut down the circuit as a safety if there was a leak detected.
This is why you read post that people have reset their fuse and their system started working again. Be cautious of simply pulling the fuse as a final fix because you may find yourself needing a new PSE pump if the leak isn't corrected.
IT takes about 30 minutes to change the Latch out DIY.
The latch assy has about 7 part numbers and are VIN specific so remember to have your VIN when you go get the part. I was surprised that my local dealer stocked this item.. HMMMM I wonder why..
Keyless go - touch the trunk latch and it should pop open, same as using the key. But instead, it just opens like 1/2 an inch and can be manually PULLED up with great effort.
Use the key - pops open like it should. Or, press the switch in driver's door , works the same way.
So it seems pump is ok, but something with keyless go prevents it from popping up same way it should.
Anyone else seen this?
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--have you tried going into your settings and see if the Trunk Open Limiter is set to "OFF" ?
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I used the "pull fuse" trick and viola, victory is mine. If it happens again, i'll look for a more permanent solution, but at least now I won't have to practically jump on the trunk lid of my big dog newish benz.
If you keep resetting you will end up needing a new PSE pump AND fixing the leak.
Please read my previous posts regarding pulling the fuses or unplugging the battery for reset... It is an indicator that there is something wrong and not meant to be a weekly routine.
You can hear the motor attempting to pull it down, but nothing happens. If you push down on the lid, it will latch.
Any ideas for why this would happen?
Im hoping its not a PSE pump problem, but rather a leak in the line to the trunk or something resettable.
Its worked perfectly fine until just now.
thanks
Since MB roadside assistance swapped my battery under warranty, I've had nary an issue.

Assuming the only thing that is no longer working is the trunk while the rest of the system is functional and you have just reset the fuse:
1. Remove the trunk lid liner
2. Remove the lock assembly
3. Remove the air hose shown in IMG_0052
4. Simulate locking by engaging the lock hook
5. When you hear the pump running put your finger over the hose, if the pump stops you are lucky and you only have to deal with the locking mechanism. If the pump doesn't stop, listen for air leaks along the line you are holding. If you can't find the leak, I can't help you. If you don't hear the pump, then your pump is probably bad and I can't help you.
Assuming you make the pump stop by covering the line described earlier by either not having a leak or fixing it.
1. Buy new locking assembly and replace it
2. Reconnect the line and listen for leaks at the locking assembly, fix if possible and put it back in
Last edited by super_monkey; Feb 5, 2010 at 02:16 AM.
then locked the car ( from inside while the car was running) and unlocked the car again also from inside and bam back to not working... my mechanic said its prob something in your locking system ! not sure i still have to work on it and see
and if i wanna pull the fuse which one is it?
thanks


