Im a Newbie here thsi is my 1st MB
but i noticed that it shows signs of rust near the rear wheel is this a sign of salt damage?
also is there a ipod interface for the radio?

Rust is known problem all these cars especially if you live up north. Your dealer "might" be able to do something about it but you have to have had the car inspected every two years or something like that. Someone else may be able to chime in on the exact way it was covered and to what extent.

They do make ipod interface units for the car. you can just search google for them if you want a direct connection, they can be a little high though. I just bought a tape adapter and it works perfectly fine and still sounds great
Post pics,
A device that provided direct input through the fiber optics will provide the best sound quality. One is the Dension Gateway 500. See https://mbworld.org/forums/audio-ele...mentation.html for information on one. Your car has a D2B fiber optics bus (system), so you would need the D2B version; the D2B version has a much simpler installation than for the MOST bus shown in the link, but will not provide song titles on COMAND or on the instrument cluster display. You do song, artist, album, or playlist selection on the iPod, but can control volume and can scroll from the steering wheel.
The MB iPod kit cannot be fitted to your car.
I do not believe the Mobridge, iTronic, or DICE devices are available for D2B fiber optics, but you can check. A search of the forum will help you.
Harman-Kardon also makes devices that have a direct feed into the FM antenna, and also has controls and a readout screen - but the sound will not be as good, and you must find a suitable location for the screen and control unit. The devices were Drive+Play and iDrive; they are half the cost of the devices mentioned previously.
Last edited by Skylaw; Feb 23, 2009 at 07:53 AM.
also i was thinking about adding 20in rims do i need to take it to the dealer and have them adjust the computer
im feeling this forum so ty
and soon i hope to put pics up on here as well
1. Make sure your wheels have the correct centerbore of 66.56
Just because a wheel manu/ states the wheel is hubcentric does not mean the bore is correct.
2. Wheels dont destroy suspensions. People do. BTW you don't have to worry about any outside force destrying your suspension. Your car will do that all by itself.
P.S. Yeah, the car will do it all by itself, trying not to do it as quick.
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"HUB CENTRIC
Definition: A wheel that is centered or located on the hub by a machined center hole-as opposed to "lug centered" wheels that are located by the position of the lug nuts alone."
Many wheel manufactures "claim" their wheel are hub centric. And that may be tru for whatevery they are applying it to. But the fact is, there are only a few wheels that come standard with a 66.56 center bore. The rest of them that do work well on a mercedes have a centereing ring of some type that adapts the center to the correct bore. That is NOT a true hubcentric wheel by definition.
So my advise was not to confuse the issue, but to make sure that the OP end up with the correct cener bore instead of relying solely on the wheel being stated as Hub centric.
All factory wheels have the correct center bore machined into the wheels, Mnndrus wheels for example have a machined center bore of 66.56 so these wheels only fit mercedes cars.
Many wheels fit different cars as long as the bolt pattern is the same. These wheels are machines with a standard center bore and use centering rings custom made to acheive the required center bore of the application.
The 20" St4's on my car are "hub centric" by defintion, but they have metal removable centering rings to correct the center bore. They are not machined to the exact bore size. That the major difference between them and the actual double spoke factory wheels.






