HELP ! ESP/ABS/BAS Airmatic malfunction messgaes
10-04-2013, 10:31 AM
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Class S W220
HELP ! ESP/ABS/BAS Airmatic malfunction messgaes
Posted this over at the "other" MBZ forum - no joy - hopefully more response here ?
I put 2 New Arnott front shocks and the car is throwing ESP/ABS/BAS Airmatic malfunction messages and transmission went into limp mode.
Tried steering reset then battery reset - no change.
I carefully cleaned and checked wheel sensors & connections, no change.
Called Arnott and they said car is probably in "Default Mode" - "can only be reset with MZ Star system.." that's the first time I've heard of that !
Any assistance greatly appreciated I have no idea where to go from here without throwing money blind.
I put 2 New Arnott front shocks and the car is throwing ESP/ABS/BAS Airmatic malfunction messages and transmission went into limp mode.
Tried steering reset then battery reset - no change.
I carefully cleaned and checked wheel sensors & connections, no change.
Called Arnott and they said car is probably in "Default Mode" - "can only be reset with MZ Star system.." that's the first time I've heard of that !
Any assistance greatly appreciated I have no idea where to go from here without throwing money blind.
10-04-2013, 11:17 PM
#2
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Grasping at straws
Likely not the same thing at all, but I recently had this message happen with my car. It was compounded at the same time by throwing a Crankshaft position sensor fault. Ended up the two things happening at once and was coincidencal - I did two things based on feedback from folks on the forum:
1) Although the battery didn't seem to be faulty it was suggested mercedes fault codes are very sensitive to battery strength so I first charged and when that didn't help I replaced the battery, which corrected the issue I had with ESP/ABS/BAS message
2) Car was randomly stalling and throwing a P0335 so I replaced the crankshaft position sensor, which rectified the stalling and fault issue.
I was able to use an OBD2 reader and a smartphone application to read and erase the faults.
It's been almost a month since I've done this and it's been all good since then.
A very long way of saying it might be coincidental that the fault code issue came up at the same time you replaced the shocks so maybe time to look at other possibilities?
This may not help but sounds like you might have been open to hearing "out there" possibilities
James
1) Although the battery didn't seem to be faulty it was suggested mercedes fault codes are very sensitive to battery strength so I first charged and when that didn't help I replaced the battery, which corrected the issue I had with ESP/ABS/BAS message
2) Car was randomly stalling and throwing a P0335 so I replaced the crankshaft position sensor, which rectified the stalling and fault issue.
I was able to use an OBD2 reader and a smartphone application to read and erase the faults.
It's been almost a month since I've done this and it's been all good since then.
A very long way of saying it might be coincidental that the fault code issue came up at the same time you replaced the shocks so maybe time to look at other possibilities?
This may not help but sounds like you might have been open to hearing "out there" possibilities
James
10-15-2013, 11:41 AM
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Replaced the right front wheel speed sensor and still in limp mode !
Took it to the Stealership for diag and they say there is a fault with the EGS .
I have no idea where to start.
The car was FINE until I put the new Arnott shocks in and then ALL HELL breaks loose.
I don't get it. Why would changing the shocks lead to allof these seemingly and totatliy unrelated problem/faults with the transmission ?
HELP PLEASE !
Took it to the Stealership for diag and they say there is a fault with the EGS .
I have no idea where to start.
The car was FINE until I put the new Arnott shocks in and then ALL HELL breaks loose.
I don't get it. Why would changing the shocks lead to allof these seemingly and totatliy unrelated problem/faults with the transmission ?
HELP PLEASE !
10-22-2013, 03:46 PM
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First off, to all those that replied : THANKS FOR NOTHING !
In the end it turned out to be the TCU card that was water damaged - nothing to do with the struts - just coincidence ...
In the end it turned out to be the TCU card that was water damaged - nothing to do with the struts - just coincidence ...
10-22-2013, 10:45 PM
#5
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lol. i to am dealing with a similar issue, i replaced the drivfers side first, then the same day my passenger side goes out so i order another from arnott. now i got abs and esp light on, and steering hard. going to change speed sensor, thanks to all that have replied in the past, i have saved a fortune on repairs based on the excellent knowledge on thses forums, again thx all and keep it up!
10-23-2013, 03:00 AM
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Corkeshoppe - So, is it fixed or not ?
I have read your posts and it sounds like we have almost identical symptoms - changed out to Arnotts then EPS/BAS/ELS then the dreaded Limp Mode .... Put in new wheel speed sensor , no joy.
Have you physicaly pulled out your TCU card from it's box to inspoect it ? Mine had obviously suffered from water egress BEFORE (+3 years ago!) I bought the car. The problem is the PCB was badly oxydised and was brealing down.
I found a same p/n TCU from donor car for $150 - Presto - no faults on the dash and the car drives ALMOST normally except it will not shift manually, only 'D' automatically.
Me thinking it will need a new Star scan and some coding to take care of that.
I have read your posts and it sounds like we have almost identical symptoms - changed out to Arnotts then EPS/BAS/ELS then the dreaded Limp Mode .... Put in new wheel speed sensor , no joy.
Have you physicaly pulled out your TCU card from it's box to inspoect it ? Mine had obviously suffered from water egress BEFORE (+3 years ago!) I bought the car. The problem is the PCB was badly oxydised and was brealing down.
I found a same p/n TCU from donor car for $150 - Presto - no faults on the dash and the car drives ALMOST normally except it will not shift manually, only 'D' automatically.
Me thinking it will need a new Star scan and some coding to take care of that.
10-23-2013, 12:31 PM
#7
Super Member
no not yet, im going to change speed sensor first, i think that the gears not shifting in your car could be the conductor plate, im going to do mine real soon! i had to do it in my c class a couple months ago, the car wnet in to limp mode.
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10-24-2013, 02:21 AM
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Do not throw money away ! I bought a wheel speed sensor and that was NOT the problem so that was a waste of time, money & energy.
Your symptoms appear to be identical to mine - PLEASE check your TCU pcb ! It's extremely easy and costs nothing.
Check this video that shows
where it is and what it looks like.
The problem is they can get wet and then they oxydize then after a few years they fail.
Your symptoms appear to be identical to mine - PLEASE check your TCU pcb ! It's extremely easy and costs nothing.
Check this video that shows
where it is and what it looks like.
The problem is they can get wet and then they oxydize then after a few years they fail.
10-24-2013, 10:38 AM
#9
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thnaks mwc.i will look for one on ebay, but im still wondering why my esp and bas light came on when i changed my arnott shock, when i did the drivers side no problem but when i did passenger side i got hard steering and the codes. i had to stand on my hub to press it down to install the strut, because the check valve was still on my shock so it wouldnt compress. i will look for a tcu, thanks my friend.
10-24-2013, 01:31 PM
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Don't go buying a new TCO until you've checked yours ! No sense throwing money away. Check your TCU if it looks like it has goten wet then go out and find a replacment. If not, you're problem may (or may not be elsewhere.
The plugs for the wheel speed sensor and shock are a real pain - you probably did not get the plugs pushed ALL the way down into the plug - I had same problem too, so be extra careful to ensure the plug is completly seated - while you're at it, give it a shot connection cleaner too.
The plugs for the wheel speed sensor and shock are a real pain - you probably did not get the plugs pushed ALL the way down into the plug - I had same problem too, so be extra careful to ensure the plug is completly seated - while you're at it, give it a shot connection cleaner too.
Last edited by MwC_Class_S; 10-24-2013 at 01:33 PM.
10-24-2013, 03:19 PM
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That is mis-guided.
The problem is that when the TCU goes South, you get garbage from STAR.
Ask me how I know ...
I had my car on a STAR system 3 times, twice at an Indy and once at the full MBZ Stealership.
NONE of the STAR diags positively confirmed that my TCU pcb was dust.
It wasn't until I physically pulled it out for inspection that I saw the damage.
Just like Corke, STAR was pointing to wheel speed sensor, airmatic and ESP system - WRONG !
10-25-2013, 10:09 PM
#13
Super Member
thanks to all, but what im baffled at is the fact that i changed the drivers shock and no problem, then a week later i change out the passenger side and now hard steering and the eps, and bas, i did take of the wheel today and checked the plugs on the sensor and the shock, i will take of again and put cleaner on it. i didn't dis, the battery because i didnt do it for the drivers side. i will check the tcu tomm. my car is garaged every night so i dont see why the tcu would go bad but i will check it out, thx again and i will post results as soon as i get this fixed, i'm also looking to buy star das from member just so i don't have to go to dealer!
10-26-2013, 03:11 AM
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"my car is garaged every night so i dont see why the tcu would go bad "
Go back and read my posts:
MY TCU got wet MANY YEARS BEFORE I OWNED THE CAR !
Like yourself, I was in denial, just go pull the TCU out of it's box and look at it .
It can also fail due to ATF creeping UP the wiring harness and into the TCU causing HAVOC - this is a well known problem on ALL MBZ circa 1998 - 2004.
DO us all a favor and go pull that TCU - NOW !
Go back and read my posts:
MY TCU got wet MANY YEARS BEFORE I OWNED THE CAR !
Like yourself, I was in denial, just go pull the TCU out of it's box and look at it .
It can also fail due to ATF creeping UP the wiring harness and into the TCU causing HAVOC - this is a well known problem on ALL MBZ circa 1998 - 2004.
DO us all a favor and go pull that TCU - NOW !
10-29-2013, 02:45 PM
#17
Super Member
mwc, i took out the tcu, it was clean but i sprayed electronics cleaner on it real good pluged it back in, then i took the wheel of and disconnected the struts and speed sensor wires sprayed them snd plugged them back in and it fixed the problem. thanks for your help, now i got to take out and change the conductor plate connector and replace the o2 sensors, so all my codes will go away! hopefully.
08-24-2014, 08:51 PM
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s500
Hello I know this thread is way old, but i'm wondering where exactly is the TCU...the video doesn't actually show him pulling out the card. I suspect my TCU has some damage...I would like to inspect mine...
08-24-2014, 09:25 PM
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2002 S430
As the video shows it is in the right back corner fuse box in the engine compartment.
BTW, the original symptoms (a plethora of scary malfunction messages coming up simultaneously) more likely caused by a weak battery than a SAM.
BTW, the original symptoms (a plethora of scary malfunction messages coming up simultaneously) more likely caused by a weak battery than a SAM.
08-24-2014, 11:40 PM
#20
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Remember that left/right on an automobile is always properly defined as if you are sitting in the driver's seat.
That means that when you are hunting the right front SAM (a covered black case), you will look to your left to find the box in the right rear corner of the engine compartment if you are standing in front of the car. (Inside the engine compartment, under the lower right corner of the windshield.)
The TCU will be a small plastic box attached to a wire harness inside the SAM case.
That means that when you are hunting the right front SAM (a covered black case), you will look to your left to find the box in the right rear corner of the engine compartment if you are standing in front of the car. (Inside the engine compartment, under the lower right corner of the windshield.)
The TCU will be a small plastic box attached to a wire harness inside the SAM case.
