When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm honestly not even sure if my car still has a tune or not. Previous owner records shows an ECU tune back in 2011 but the car has gone through so much since then that it may have been reset.
Is there any way to tell for sure if it's still tuned or not (without dyno-ing it)?
I'm not planning to do anything crazy on the s600 as of now. I heard having an ECU tune on it makes the ignition system go out sooner, so I actually WANT it to be full on stock right now. But when I do find the prefect w220 s65 I'm going to mod the crap out of my s600 and turn it into some sort of project car while keeping the s65 fully original.
My eurocharged tune raises the shift points to 6k, so that's one way to check. If your original tune didn't though that may not be enough.
For me, the driving character tells, a tuned 600 feels night and day faster than a stock one. If you've only driven yours though that's not gonna say much.
I think mine does shift at 6k. I've never been able to tell the difference between a tuned or stock s600 because I've only driven mine and I don't even know if it's stock or not. What rpm does the stock mapping shift at?
Is there any way to know with STAR/DAS? Or does it look like I have to get it dynoed to really find out. Does anyone know any good dyno places in Los Angeles area?
And of course I'll do all this whenever I get my misfire issues sorted out.
I think mine does shift at 6k. I've never been able to tell the difference between a tuned or stock s600 because I've only driven mine and I don't even know if it's stock or not. What rpm does the stock mapping shift at?
Stock redline is 5800, not a big difference but it's a difference. If it goes all the way to 6, it's probably tuned.
A tuned 600 will spin the tires to 60mph if running properly, it's a whole different animal than a stock car.
You could log boost pressures with any type of scanner/Torque app, if it's around 12-14 psi it's stock, tuned will be over 20
More bad news. Now my ABC is acting up, and its acting very strange and I cannot find any information on why its doing this. I don't even know which problem to focus on now anymore.
The car raises itself to max ride height and becomes extremely bouncy and unstable over any little road imperfection while driving. When I come to a stop, wait a few seconds, then let go of the brakes, the car will drop down very noticeably and lower itself about 3-4 inches and go back to normal. After it gets moving again, it just repeats the same process over and over again. What could possibly be going on? Does it have to do with ride height sensors? Locked up valve blocks? It's very strange and I've never heard of something like this happening.
There are no new warning lights on the dash, and no new error codes. I've had a white ABC message on the dash for about a year now, and it has to do with a ride height sensor, but it never has given me any weird problems like I'm getting right now. It does this every time I drive the car now. ABC fluid is at the right level. No visible leaks.
I had a travel sensor fault and it jacked the car up high at one corner and made it very bouncy.
I'd suggest you get the car scanned with SDS, as there's something going on, you don't know what specifically, and it's not a good idea to start throwing parts at it, gets expensive quickly.
Ok, so I installed the reservoir. It was very easy, I'm just really surprised why Mercedes didn't do this in the first place. It actually came out very clean and looks factory much to my surprise.
Here are some pictures:
This is with the old radiator cap:
This is with the new cap with the fill valve:
I'll monitor the level of the reservoir every day for the next couple of days and see what happens. I'll also do the always-running pump mod, but for now I'm waiting for the air bubbles to vent out before I do anything.
After the remote reservoir and the constant 12v pump wire install, did you just feed more coolant from the new rad cap with the car running and the new reservoir cap off to get rid of any air bubbles? Or, does the new reservoir have a pin hole to release air coming in?
After the remote reservoir and the constant 12v pump wire install, did you just feed more coolant from the new rad cap with the car running and the new reservoir cap off to get rid of any air bubbles? Or, does the new reservoir have a pin hole to release air coming in?
I haven't done the constant 12v pump wire yet, but all I did to bleed the air was top off the coolant in the header tank everyday until it became full and never lost any more fluid. This obviously takes much longer to bleed all the air out than if you do what you suggested, which is the fastest way to do it. The pump has to be running to circulate the coolant and get all the air bubbles out though, so the constant 12v wire would be necessary to bleed it that way, since the pump isn't always running normally.
It seems like I have been having this issue of slow acceleration/response for quite a while now, but didn't think too much of it until recently when I lost to a car that is slower than a stock S600... I am getting not enough power in the high end as I feel like I should be getting, and the response of the car is really sluggish resulting in poor acceleration. Sometimes I even put my foot down all the way and the car does not feel like moving at all, it just stays in the current gear and accelerates very slowly with little boost.
I have had other issues regarding poor acceleration and responsiveness. I changed the MAP sensors, replaced throttle position sensor, and cleaned the throttle body, all resulting in fixing the issue I was having at the time, but there seems to be another acceleration problem that shows up as soon as I fix the previous problem.
I did some further research, and wanted to come here for some clarification. I've heard it is a common problem for the charge air cooler pump, or IC pump, goes bad in these cars often and causes sluggish acceleration and response due to the ECU getting bad IAT readings and tuning down the car's performance. Is this true? With my symptoms, is this the problem I am having, and will simply replacing the IC pump fix the issue?
Originally Posted by AlexMercedes
I haven't done the constant 12v pump wire yet, but all I did to bleed the air was top off the coolant in the header tank everyday until it became full and never lost any more fluid. This obviously takes much longer to bleed all the air out than if you do what you suggested, which is the fastest way to do it. The pump has to be running to circulate the coolant and get all the air bubbles out though, so the constant 12v wire would be necessary to bleed it that way, since the pump isn't always running normally.
Hi guys, so is it normal for this s600 biturbo to run slower in hot weather?
I have a 2004 S600 and in cold weather the car is just an animal but as soon as the weather gets hot 18C and above, then the car feels sluggish.
A properly working intercooler system shouldn't heat soak noticeably. Yes it will be stronger in cold weather, but should still be fast in warm weather. Make sure the system is FULL with no air in it, and the pump is working. Almost every 600 that comes in for service now as they get older has some sort of issue with the I/C system, even something simple like a bad seal on the radiator cap for the system will cause it to go low on fluid, get air in there, and noticeably degrade the cooling performance.
I have a stock I/C system with only the relay wired to run the pump anytime the engine is on instead of controlled by temperature, and down here in south FL weather the car is very consistent unless parked for 2 hours and heatsoaked badly, in which case after 2-3 min of driving it comes back to normal. With my tune it is much more obvious as I go to under stock boost when the temps are high, and back to crazy mode when it's cool enough.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I just wish there was someone in the UK that has priceless knowledge on the 600 biturbo's.
I would love to take my car for a full check up
I really love my S600 biturbo and I have not had it for long so it's all new to me.
I'm a wizard when it comes to the s500 setup but not so much on the 600.
I have a 2003 s600,128k, black over cream and stock apart from large wheels.
I also have a 2004 S600, 166k, silver over designo black, and well modified. Eurocharge tuned with heavily modified intercooler - the HE and pump are a BMW X3 engine radiator and Pierburg engine pump, plus I have a customised thermostatic pump controller and the IC's continuously bleed into a proper swirl pot. I've added heat shields to the IC's, coolant lines, coil packs, and all the ABC hoses in the engine compartment, which all use replaceable hoses. The steering rack and all strut top bushes are uprated. The front brakes are 390mm, and all wheels are 20x10. It's fair to say it's quite different to how I bought it.
That sounds amazing, mine is a 2004 S600 with 145K on the clock with FMSH. It's obsidian black with the sand colour interior. This was the combo I was after so I was lucky to find one.
The car had one owner from new and was maintened with an open cheque book. I was shocked with the amount of paper work the owner had.
I want to modify the performance and do something about the heat these mighty engines produce. They heat soak to quick.
I thought it was the 2003 that had coil pack issues.
The spark plugs are not an issue but the coolpacks are silly pricy.
Will the cool pack blow once it's tunned?
Also I tried finding the ad but had no luck.
Regards
zabe
All V12 cars use the same coil pack, not sure why you thought one year was the issue. At this age/mileage, if you tune them, the added load will usually fry something. If you get a car that was driven softly it's whole life and start using it properly, it will expose a weak coil. They are 15 years old, replacement isn't unusual at this age. $1k per side and be done with it. Throw in plugs and a transformer, you're under 3k and won't have to worry about it for another 15 years.
07-05-2017, 08:06 PM
