Trunck blow yellow 20A fuse constanty. What could be the issue
Make sure you find out where your system is leaking from. This leak is why your pump burned out. In my wife's S430 the leak was within the trunk lock/latch/soft-close feature. Her pump got so hot, the ID Sticker on the outside of the pump was all melted.
If you don't fix the leak, you'll burn out the next pump you put in.
I actually have two pumps not being used at home right now if you end up needing one, contact me and we can work something out.
Both pumps work and have been tested. Let me know if you have any interest and if so, which one.
The pumps I have are:
220 800 05 48
220 800 02 48
I'm thinking $100 + $15 shipping to the USA....I don't know where you are located so shipping might be more if you need international shipping.
But no matter what you do, DEFINITELY find and fix the leak if your pump is burned out.
you need to find the vacuum leak
Make sure you find out where your system is leaking from. This leak is why your pump burned out. In my wife's S430 the leak was within the trunk lock/latch/soft-close feature. Her pump got so hot, the ID Sticker on the outside of the pump was all melted.
If you don't fix the leak, you'll burn out the next pump you put in.
I actually have two pumps not being used at home right now if you end up needing one, contact me and we can work something out.
Both pumps work and have been tested. Let me know if you have any interest and if so, which one.
The pumps I have are:
220 800 05 48
220 800 02 48
I'm thinking $100 + $15 shipping to the USA....I don't know where you are located so shipping might be more if you need international shipping.
But no matter what you do, DEFINITELY find and fix the leak if your pump is burned out.
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Works:
Lock on all doors
Soft close on all doors
lumbar on driver seat
Not work:
Unlock all 4 doors
Unlock gas door
Unlock the trunk and the silver tongue is stuck in the out position
Rear headrests not working
Anyone come across this? The black plastic board seems to have a bubble but doesn't seem to have a hole. I used an air gun to blow out the black dirt from the pump and hoses. So it seems that air will go one way but not the other in order to unlock. Not sure if there is a clog somewhere.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Do you mean this spring-loaded thing? See Pic. Easy to find and replace? Thank you in advance.
Last edited by HankWank; Aug 26, 2024 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Add info. This spring loaded thing does move.
Burned out transistor?
Help with identifying PSE pump circuit board component.
Hello, everyone. If possible could someone identify what this burned out part is? Trying to fix my board and cant identify it. Pictured would be greatly appreciated.




I had the blown fuse as well, tried a new one, blew it again. Unknowingly, I thought my dynamic seat pump was the issue. That original pump had problems of its own, bought another one and now I have a good replacement. I bench tested them both with an adjustable DC power supply. The original clearly made more noise, had a melted housing, yet ran but drew higher current.
Old dynamic seat pump @12V, drew 9.2A, temp went from 86 Deg F to 111 Deg F in 15 seconds
New dynamic seat pump @12V, drew 5.1A, temp went from 85 Deg F to 88 Deg F in 15 seconds
So put that into perspective on how hot these motors get in a short amount of time.
I then plugged in the new dynamic seat pump, heard one of them run for 10 seconds and the fuse blew again.
So now I move onto the PSE pump itself. I pulled it, attempted to bench test the motor and there's a short to ground, also initially suspected by the insulation melted on one of the wires from coming into contact with the hot motor. Now keep in mind it was not seized and would spin by hand, but apply 12V and it would not move. I also opened the vacuum end and the impeller was not damaged. The vacuum manifold also has visible heat damage. I don't see holes but can't rule out the internal passage of the manifold. It holds a vacuum with and without power applied to the coil, which leads me to believe the passage may be melted shut. While I was at it I tested each coil with 12V and all of them function well besides the one next to the melted area, it is very weak.
So, I'll echo what Tusabes said, in most cases it's probably not worth repairing. Sure I can swap in a new motor, but once you have manifold heat damage I think it's a wash.
Moving forward, after I acquire another PSE pump, I still need to troubleshoot where the vacuum leak occurred to make the pump run hot and fail. I have compressed air, a smoke machine and a vacuum pump if anyone would like to make recommendations on what they've done before. I'm hesitant about the smoke machine because the smell isn't too pleasant and don't want it inside the car. I've tried the vacuum pump on each individual line and have gotten mixed results. I assume pressurizing it and observing drop may be more effective.
Last edited by S_Holford; Aug 30, 2024 at 03:23 PM.


Section with the control circuitry, valves, etc., has to be programmed to match the options installed on your car. For example, a standard USA S430 will have door and trunk locks, door soft close, and probably rear headrest drop. It isn't likely to have pulsating seats, power trunk open/close, and perhaps other deluxe options found on an AMG S55.
I had the blown fuse as well, tried a new one, blew it again. Unknowingly, I thought my dynamic seat pump was the issue. That original pump had problems of its own, bought another one and now I have a good replacement. I bench tested them both with an adjustable DC power supply. The original clearly made more noise, had a melted housing, yet ran but drew higher current.
Old dynamic seat pump @12V, drew 9.2A, temp went from 86 Deg F to 111 Deg F in 15 seconds
New dynamic seat pump @12V, drew 5.1A, temp went from 85 Deg F to 88 Deg F in 15 seconds
So put that into perspective on how hot these motors get in a short amount of time.
I then plugged in the new dynamic seat pump, heard one of them run for 10 seconds and the fuse blew again.
So now I move onto the PSE pump itself. I pulled it, attempted to bench test the motor and there's a short to ground, also initially suspected by the insulation melted on one of the wires from coming into contact with the hot motor. Now keep in mind it was not seized and would spin by hand, but apply 12V and it would not move. I also opened the vacuum end and the impeller was not damaged. The vacuum manifold also has visible heat damage. I don't see holes but can't rule out the internal passage of the manifold. It holds a vacuum with and without power applied to the coil, which leads me to believe the passage may be melted shut. While I was at it I tested each coil with 12V and all of them function well besides the one next to the melted area, it is very weak.
So, I'll echo what Tusabes said, in most cases it's probably not worth repairing. Sure I can swap in a new motor, but once you have manifold heat damage I think it's a wash.
Moving forward, after I acquire another PSE pump, I still need to troubleshoot where the vacuum leak occurred to make the pump run hot and fail. I have compressed air, a smoke machine and a vacuum pump if anyone would like to make recommendations on what they've done before. I'm hesitant about the smoke machine because the smell isn't too pleasant and don't want it inside the car. I've tried the vacuum pump on each individual line and have gotten mixed results. I assume pressurizing it and observing drop may be more effective.




I did test each of the lines to determine where the leaks are. I didn't go nuts pressurizing the lines so I stopped at 5 psi with a hand pump. If I still had working PSE pump I believe I could have verified the non-op components through an SDS scan.
I copied this from the W220 wiki regarding the PSE system to ID the ports and their corresponding components:
SK: Main Inlet Line with Air Filter behind the Rear Left Seat Back Grey connector /white air line DID NOT HOLD PRESSURE, UNSURE IF IT'S SUPPOSED TO
KAF: Rear Seat Head Restraints. HELD 5 PSI
HECK: Retractable Trunk Grip (RTG), Boot/Trunk Catch Actuator and Trunk Soft Close Mechanism DID NOT HOLD PRESSURE
TD: Fuel Filler Flap Lock. DID NOT HOLD PRESSURE
FoR: Rear Right Door Lock, Child Safety Door Lock Release and Soft/Self Close DID NOT HOLD PRESSURE
FoL: Rear Left Door Lock , Child Safety Door Lock Release and Soft/Self Close DID NOT HOLD PRESSURE
BFT Front Passenger's (left or right depends on LHD or RHD) Door Lock and Soft/Self Close DID NOT HOLD PRESSURE
FT Front Driver's (left or right depends on LHD or RHD) Door Lock and Soft/Self Close HELD 5 PSI, and observed door lock respond
MKL Multi Contour Backrest (Lumbar Support Bladder all four seats) HELD 5 PSI.
It appears as 3 of my doors, the trunk, and fuel door all have leaks between the pump lines and actuators. It looks like I have some more work ahead before I dive into installing the new pump.
Make sure you find out where your system is leaking from. This leak is why your pump burned out. In my wife's S430 the leak was within the trunk lock/latch/soft-close feature. Her pump got so hot, the ID Sticker on the outside of the pump was all melted.
If you don't fix the leak, you'll burn out the next pump you put in.
I actually have two pumps not being used at home right now if you end up needing one, contact me and we can work something out.
Both pumps work and have been tested. Let me know if you have any interest and if so, which one.
The pumps I have are:
220 800 05 48
220 800 02 48
I'm thinking $100 + $15 shipping to the USA....I don't know where you are located so shipping might be more if you need international shipping.
But no matter what you do, DEFINITELY find and fix the leak if your pump is burned out.





