@tusabes Gotcha! Only reason I asked is, because I am having a hard time finding it locally. I never planned on ordering it. I did find the CRC Electronic Cleaner at Home Depot. I think I will go ahead and order that SAM from eBay you showed me.

Now as far as the locks go. What is the process of repairing those?

 

Go here https://www.benzworld.org/threads/w2.../#post-5758758 and scroll down to the door lock info...

 

So I found this one on eBay, but the description says "CL500" and says its for a s430. All the number match up.

 

Too bad that the Birmingham pull-a-part doesn't have any S-class or CL-class cars...

Cagle's "You Pull It" in Cartersville, Georgia has three W220 cars in stock, and a "control module" is $20, a "fuse box, large" is $25.

 

The absolute BEST contact /connection improver is called "Stabilant-22'. It will not remove corrosion or debris however, It DOES change the normal contact deposits into highly conductive material. It works in the contact area only. IT will improve even 'clean-room' clean pure gold contacts so much they equal solid gold conductivity.
It IS EXPENSIVE at some $75 for a small vial (10 cc) that you dilute with pure alcohol to place a single small drop on the contacts. This single small amount will last you a 'lifetime' unless you are always working on electrical gremlins in Military Aircraft.

Most AutoParts Stores have it in their 'catalog, but not in-stock. Most 'electronic parts/service establishments carry it. Almost every automotive electronics service establishments use it.

 

Good stuff - Highly recommended.

Our Canadian members might be able to get it for a lower cost, as it is produced in Richmond Hill, ON by D. W. Electrochemicals Ltd.

 

@wallyp I have absolutely no issue driving to Cartersville, GA. That will suit me much better, because I will get to test the SAM right there. That is a 2 hour 13 minute drive from me. I have driven further for less important this lol
Also, what do you mean buy a "fuse box large"

@Kebowers47 That has to be military graded lol I think that maybe a little too much for the job I have.

 

RE Stabilant-22
IF you are going to keep a MBZ in good condition, you WILL have numerous 'electrical/electronic issues----there are so many interconnected components and so-so connectors used everywhere. GM recognized in 1975, when Catalytic Converters and 50,000 mile warranties requirements became law ---A key requirement was upgrading all the electrical connections to RELIABLE, Durable, Weatherproof quality. Their AC/Delco divisions worked tirelessly with connector manufacturers to develop hi-integrity, affordable connectors. MBZ has been very slow to follow suit. My 2001 S-600, 25 years later, still has MANY 1930's technology connections, and anytime I have to be anywhere around them--I unplug/treat with S-22-replug all of them.
IF you do not religiously treat the connections with S-22, You WILL REGRET it.

 

@Kebowers47 I will def have to look into it. Having these issues again is not something I want!

@wallyp Sooooo we meeting up when I go get the modules from "You Pull IT"? lol
I am going to call about it and see if they can hold it once you verify that is what I need.

 

http://caglesupullit.com/index.aspx

They don't know what is left on the cars, and they don't hold parts. I think that it is virtually certain that you can get the SAM that you need - that doesn't seem to be a popular part. Airmatic struts, now...

I live an hour away, further to the North-East, so meeting will be chancy. PM me to let me know when you will be there.

Make note of days and hours, remembering that you are in a different time zone. Five o'clock gets there faster than you would believe.

I have no idea whether they would consider the SAM to be a control module or a large fuse box, but appearance would make me guess "large fuse box".

I suggest:
Make a written list of everything that you think that you might possibly want, arranged by priority, and make certain that you carry it with you!
Look at the parts prices list - that might add some things to your shopping list.
Check the weather in Cartersville.
Get there early.
There are three W220's on the yard, but they all have been picked over. The inventory tell you what row they are on - check all three. Get the parts that are right for your car, or that or in the best shape.
Have a lot of tools - surely you will get more than one SAM.. Have a full set of Torx drivers for interior parts, plus a few plastic pry bars. Other tools - a good wire cutter to cut the harness so that you get the connectors (they rarely sell harnesses).; flat and Phillips screwdrivers; a couple of small flat screwdrivers; two sizes of pliers; two sizes of adjustable wrenches; at least one good small flashlight; most of the metric wrenches and sockets that you have - etc., etc. You will get a wagon to carry your tools in and the tools and parts out. Carry water and a snack. Sun protection. Gloves if you use them.

The young lady is the third-generation Cagle to run the business - good people. Tell them that the gray-beard who gets the Mercedes parts sent you...

I agree that having Stabilant is a GOOD THING if you are maintaining a W220!

 

Little fearful of the drive, if the parts (more specifically the SAM) is not there. I looked at the website and I can see it has a good description of where the cars are located.
If Saturday is the day I come, I think I can be there before 12:00PM (EST). Could be earlier, I think that is worse case scenario.
I will be sure to make a list of what is wrong and see if something there can be removed to replace what the issue is.

I will be sure to let them know who sent me and from where lol

 

You might want to get that harness , or at least the sam wiring connector with enough wire attached to it so that if your harness connection is no good even after cleaning , you can splice all those wires

 

@tusabes I will be sure to get as much of the harness from the SAM as I can. I am hoping the SAM fixes my battery drain issue.


Referring back to my originally message the other issue is the doors. I looked at the site and found what I think is a discussion about how to fix the doors, but I do not know where to start.
Guess my question is, is there anything from the car in the yard I can get to fix the easy close, locks, and trunk? Along, with the heating and positioning of the driver seat, which I assume are blown fuses in the rear heel fusebox.
I also have the SRS issue going on and do not know how to accurately fix that?

 

The drivers seat issue is probably the door control module (the power seat switches on the door ) they are a very common failure item

pick up that part too if you are going junkyard shopping it’s very easy to remove there’s a video on YouTube

 

Jpleas, you really should budget for a scanner as Kebowers recommended. Your SRS could be one of a few items and a scanner would reveal the exact issue. Kebowers may chime in with some specific modes of decent scanners for $250. The Mercedes Star Diagnostics system is another option, but there is a learning curve to first purchasing and then using these systems.

 

@brooktre I will for sure think on it. It has been very very difficult to do anything with this car seeing how expensive everything is for it.

@wallyp I have a little information from the daughter there of the Cagle that is running it. She has been EXTREMELY helpful! Like I cannot THANK YOU and HER enough!
She gave me the vin number for the cars there. She said tomorrow she will TRY and go look and see if the part is there, if the backseat has been pulled, and/or if the metal part that is holding the module has been moved.
Is there a way to check what parts will be in the car from the vin?
03 s500 - 5.0L - WDBNG75J73A378454
04 s430 - 4.3L - WDBNG70J24A402006

@tusabes I will get that seat/door piece also when I get there. Could it be a fuse issue from the heel fuse box?

 

I sometimes use mbepc.net to search VINs. It will show you the build specs for the car, which is invaluable when going to salvage yards. The 1st VIN you listed didn’t come up, but the 2nd did. These cars are expensive, but much less so if you can fix things yourself.

 

@brooktre I found both VIN numbers on mbepc.net, but it does not show if those model SAM's will be compatible
I looked up the part on mbpartsexpress.com and found the SAM under (remanufactured Control Unit).
mbpartsexpress.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-remanufactured-control-unit-032545843280?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9ZWxlY3RyaWNhbC1 jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9NDAmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1tZ XJjZWRlcy1iZW56Jm89czQzMCZ5PTIwMDQmdD1iYXNlJmU9NC0 zbC12OC1nYXM%3D

It shows that this part (032-545-84-32-80) replaces 020-545-19-32, 028-545-81-32, 031-545-16-32, 032-545-84-32.

 

UPDATE!!!
I cannot thank you all enough! I went to the junkyard and got what I think I need. The 2 cars they had were pretty much gutted, BUT the backseat in both were intact.
I removed both SAM's and even the plate that holds them. I will need to check with you all about the rewiring of the SAM, I do not want to mess anything up.
Now it seems like there is a humming coming from the rear of the car when it is on. Sounds like it could be the pump, but I am not 100% sure. I hope installing this SAM resets things and get things back to normal.

 

Did you get anything else while you were there?

 

I did not. The cars common parts where taken or submerged in water. I also did not have service and my phone battery was low.
I wanted to get the pneumatic pump from there, but could not find where it was. I THOUGHT it was under the CD changer in the truck. One was filled with water and I did not check the other car for it.
The doors were taken apart, the heel fuse box was gone, and engine bay was pretty empty on both.

 

What is the best way to replace the SAM?

 

disconnect the battery , clean the harness connections with contact cleaner and plug in the new sam . Then reconnect battery and cross your fingers

 

Exactly what I did. Unfortunately, I am still hearing the whining/humming coming from behind the dash. I left it off charge last night and it started this morning, but it was a slow start like something was till draining it. I am at work currently and have left the negative hooked up to see if the problem is fixed.

The humming continues in the rear when the car is on and the seat position/heated seats still does not work(the memory function works along with the folding mirrors button), and the soft close and locks still need repair.
........
Update.
Parked at 7:30 and went to crank it at 11:00 - slow crank - check the battery volts after I started it and shut it off and it was around 7 - 8, but still started after checking that.
Not sure what is still draining the battery, but it is becoming very frustrating.

 

I drive a 2001 S430. When I put my key in the ignition, it will not turn. The steering wheel will come down, the dash is lit up with all lights, but refuses to move from the “1” position in the ignition. Furthermore, when I remove the keys, the gauges do not turn off, and I can hear the blower motor running(I think it’s the blower motor). I’ve been disconnecting my battery in between times I’m not messing with the car due to this issue. Also the steering wheel is not locked in place, even though the car is in park and battery disconnected. HELP ME PLEASE!!??