2007 S550 stall/no start after filling up
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2007 S550 stall/no start after filling up
I just bought a 2007 s550 on Ebay for a very good price, over 200k.
It does have all records from day 1 and is truly immaculate.
I picked it up in Atlanta and drove it back to Miami without a hitch.
So after driving around for a few days I stopped and filled it with 93 at Shell and as I was pulling out, it stalled and wont start.
I towed it home and I found good pressure at the shrader valve and when I spray some gas into the throttle body it will start then stop.
I suspect the injectors are not opening.
The car shows no codes or dummy lights.
Come to think of it, it did have an odd bump when idling like it was going to stall that was apparent while in gear, but no codes for coil etc?
Has anyone encountered a similar thing, any advice?
Thanks for the help!
It does have all records from day 1 and is truly immaculate.
I picked it up in Atlanta and drove it back to Miami without a hitch.
So after driving around for a few days I stopped and filled it with 93 at Shell and as I was pulling out, it stalled and wont start.
I towed it home and I found good pressure at the shrader valve and when I spray some gas into the throttle body it will start then stop.
I suspect the injectors are not opening.
The car shows no codes or dummy lights.
Come to think of it, it did have an odd bump when idling like it was going to stall that was apparent while in gear, but no codes for coil etc?
Has anyone encountered a similar thing, any advice?
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by river12; Nov 2, 2015 at 03:58 PM.
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I know the dealer will make me mortgage my house.
Thought someone might know if it could be caused by charcoal canister, vent valve or anything that might cause the injectors to not open since spraying fuel in the throttle body gets it to start..Then shut off of course
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2015 S550
Ha! 200,000 + miles
I know the dealer will make me mortgage my house.
Thought someone might know if it could be caused by charcoal canister, vent valve or anything that might cause the injectors to not open since spraying fuel in the throttle body gets it to start..Then shut off of course
I know the dealer will make me mortgage my house.
Thought someone might know if it could be caused by charcoal canister, vent valve or anything that might cause the injectors to not open since spraying fuel in the throttle body gets it to start..Then shut off of course
It could also be a vacuum issue anywhere in the system. You will probably need to bite the bullet and let a Benz tech diagnose the issue. Like I mentioned, you may have a some codes that your code reader isn't picking up. It likely won't be very expensive to diagnose the issue. What you choose to do after the issue is diagnosed is up to you.
200k+ is a ton of miles on a W221. Even though your car has been fully serviced, lots of issues will now likely rear their ugly heads. I hope you didn't get into this car thinking that servicing it would be cheap. You better set aside at least $5k/year for maintenance and repairs....maybe more.
Last edited by DaveW68; Nov 2, 2015 at 04:50 PM.
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It could also be a vacuum issue anywhere in the system. You will probably need to bite the bullet and let a Benz tech diagnose the issue. Like I mentioned, you may have a some codes that your code reader isn't picking up. It likely won't be very expensive to diagnose the issue. What you choose to do after the issue is diagnosed is up to you.
200k+ is a ton of miles on a W221. Even though your car has been fully serviced, lots of issues will now likely rear their ugly heads. I hope you didn't get into this car thinking that servicing it would be cheap. You better set aside at least $5k/year for maintenance and repairs....maybe more.
200k+ is a ton of miles on a W221. Even though your car has been fully serviced, lots of issues will now likely rear their ugly heads. I hope you didn't get into this car thinking that servicing it would be cheap. You better set aside at least $5k/year for maintenance and repairs....maybe more.
The car has zero issues, engine is very tight, just found out the transmission was replaced with a new unit at the dealer last year. Most things were already replaced, suspension bags, struts, ball joints, re-flashed etc
I'm assuming this isn't anything an 80k miles Benz wouldn't encounter.
I suppose I can spend the money on a crank sensor and new coil packs and change it, parts aren't too expensive and I can handle the work. I just don't want to do anything futile.
Wondering what would cause injectors to stay close since there is fuel pressure and spark.
Last edited by river12; Nov 2, 2015 at 04:59 PM.
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From: Chicago burbs
2015 S550
Ive owned a few expensive cars in my time, I can afford it but I use the dealer as a last resort.
The car has zero issues, engine is very tight, just found out the transmission was replaced with a new unit at the dealer last year. Most things were already replaced, suspension bags, struts, ball joints, re-flashed etc
I'm assuming this isn't anything an 80k miles Benz wouldn't encounter.
I suppose I can spend the money on a crank sensor and new coil packs and change it, parts aren't too expensive and I can handle the work. I just don't want to do anything futile.
Wondering what would cause injectors to stay close since there is fuel pressure and spark.
The car has zero issues, engine is very tight, just found out the transmission was replaced with a new unit at the dealer last year. Most things were already replaced, suspension bags, struts, ball joints, re-flashed etc
I'm assuming this isn't anything an 80k miles Benz wouldn't encounter.
I suppose I can spend the money on a crank sensor and new coil packs and change it, parts aren't too expensive and I can handle the work. I just don't want to do anything futile.
Wondering what would cause injectors to stay close since there is fuel pressure and spark.
Coil packs are super expensive....as you have to replace the entire bank. They are not individual to each cylinder. If I were you, I'd let the dealer do the diagnosis as they have all of the necessary equipment that many of the indys don't have.
You are right about repairs on a 80k mile Benz. The problem is that these repairs may be coming up for a 2nd or 3rd time by now with your mileage. If most of your repairs have been completed in the last 20k miles, you might be fine for a while. If it's been a while since the repairs were completed, you better prepare for your car to drain your bank account.
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Coil packs are super expensive....as you have to replace the entire bank. They are not individual to each cylinder. If I were you, I'd let the dealer do the diagnosis as they have all of the necessary equipment that many of the indys don't have.
You are right about repairs on a 80k mile Benz. The problem is that these repairs may be coming up for a 2nd or 3rd time by now with your mileage. If most of your repairs have been completed in the last 20k miles, you might be fine for a while. If it's been a while since the repairs were completed, you better prepare for your car to drain your bank account.
You are right about repairs on a 80k mile Benz. The problem is that these repairs may be coming up for a 2nd or 3rd time by now with your mileage. If most of your repairs have been completed in the last 20k miles, you might be fine for a while. If it's been a while since the repairs were completed, you better prepare for your car to drain your bank account.
Looks like there are 1 per cylinder.
I might get a diagnosis from them, however Im hoping someone might be able to throw some solutions as to what causes the injectors to stay closed.
Thanks
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From: Chicago burbs
2015 S550
It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change the plugs and coil packs any way with your mileage....unless you can document that it was completed in the last 30k or so miles. Change the plugs too since you're right there. From what I understand, it's a fairly simple job on the S550. BTW, MBParts sells them for $53 each....so $426 for the coil packs. I couldn't find any place on Ebay that sells all 8 "new" coil packs for $160. Used ones were in that price range, but you shouldn't purchase used coil packs for your car.
BTW, I was thinking of my S600 when I mentioned the bank of ignition coils. Those are brutally expensive.
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It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change the plugs and coil packs any way with your mileage....unless you can document that it was completed in the last 30k or so miles. Change the plugs too since you're right there. From what I understand, it's a fairly simple job on the S550. BTW, MBParts sells them for $53 each....so $426 for the coil packs. I couldn't find any place on Ebay that sells all 8 "new" coil packs for $160. Used ones were in that price range, but you shouldn't purchase used coil packs for your car.
BTW, I was thinking of my S600 when I mentioned the bank of ignition coils. Those are brutally expensive.
BTW, I was thinking of my S600 when I mentioned the bank of ignition coils. Those are brutally expensive.
Carfax shows regular visits to MB but aside from transmission replacement, remap, suspension bags etc..no mention of coil or plugs.
Do you think 1 faulty coil would shut the injectors with no codes on a simple reader?
Just thought my occasional bumpy idle and filling up on gas might point to an obvious no start condition.
just found 4 new ones for 99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141750921554?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true
Last edited by river12; Nov 2, 2015 at 07:07 PM.
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2015 S550
Yup youre right, they are used...skimmed too quickly. I guess i could try 1 at a time and see if it might be the problem. If it is, I can change all 8.
Carfax shows regular visits to MB but aside from transmission replacement, remap, suspension bags etc..no mention of coil or plugs.
Do you think 1 faulty coil would shut the injectors with no codes on a simple reader?
Just thought my occasional bumpy idle and filling up on gas might point to an obvious no start condition.
just found 4 new ones for 99
Set 4 of New Ignition Coil on Plug for 2005 2010 Mercedes Dodge C1691 UF585 | eBay
Carfax shows regular visits to MB but aside from transmission replacement, remap, suspension bags etc..no mention of coil or plugs.
Do you think 1 faulty coil would shut the injectors with no codes on a simple reader?
Just thought my occasional bumpy idle and filling up on gas might point to an obvious no start condition.
just found 4 new ones for 99
Set 4 of New Ignition Coil on Plug for 2005 2010 Mercedes Dodge C1691 UF585 | eBay
I highly doubt that a faulty coil would shut down all injectors. It's likely something else causing the problem. If you're able to sweet talk your local Benz dealer service advisor, they might be able to print all service records for every time it was dealer serviced. If they can't pull the original records, then they can likely steer you to the dealers(s) who did the service so you can try to get them from that place. But most of the time the CarFax report should state who did the repairs/service. Unfortunately the CarFax reports are usually very vague, so tracking down the actual service records is best.
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I'd only go with OEM when it comes to ignition coils. The one's you're showing were likely made in China.
I highly doubt that a faulty coil would shut down all injectors. It's likely something else causing the problem. If you're able to sweet talk your local Benz dealer service advisor, they might be able to print all service records for every time it was dealer serviced. If they can't pull the original records, then they can likely steer you to the dealers(s) who did the service so you can try to get them from that place. But most of the time the CarFax report should state who did the repairs/service. Unfortunately the CarFax reports are usually very vague, so tracking down the actual service records is best.
I highly doubt that a faulty coil would shut down all injectors. It's likely something else causing the problem. If you're able to sweet talk your local Benz dealer service advisor, they might be able to print all service records for every time it was dealer serviced. If they can't pull the original records, then they can likely steer you to the dealers(s) who did the service so you can try to get them from that place. But most of the time the CarFax report should state who did the repairs/service. Unfortunately the CarFax reports are usually very vague, so tracking down the actual service records is best.
Going to change crank and cam sensors...thinking thats a likely culprit. I will post results
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S550 4MATIC W221, W222, Lotus Elise
Could be bad fuel ?
This car is a complex machine / computer. Don't aimlessly replace parts.
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W221 S550 4matic
Theres no point it replacing parts this early in the game. My W221 has 230,000km on it and the other week in traffic at a red light it did a weird power blip from the engine. Hasn't done it since, but now that I have the Mercedes multiplexer, time to see whats up.
Taking it to the dealer is the best option right now, you will pay for a diagnostic fee but thats cheaper than starting to replace parts that you have no clue if theyre the issue.
Taking it to the dealer is the best option right now, you will pay for a diagnostic fee but thats cheaper than starting to replace parts that you have no clue if theyre the issue.
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Im just a bit scared to take it to the dealer, once it towed there I'm stuck.
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Theres no point it replacing parts this early in the game. My W221 has 230,000km on it and the other week in traffic at a red light it did a weird power blip from the engine. Hasn't done it since, but now that I have the Mercedes multiplexer, time to see whats up.
Taking it to the dealer is the best option right now, you will pay for a diagnostic fee but thats cheaper than starting to replace parts that you have no clue if theyre the issue.
Taking it to the dealer is the best option right now, you will pay for a diagnostic fee but thats cheaper than starting to replace parts that you have no clue if theyre the issue.
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From: Chicago burbs
2015 S550
Taking it to the dealer and spending a couple hundred on a proper diagnosis is better than throwing money at your car and just having it sit there as a brick. Your car could have lots of hidden issues just waiting to rear their ugly heads and cost you a small fortune. It's best to have it properly checked out.
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Solved...Well May be
So I decided to check for fuel pressure this morning and nada.
I guess when I checked it yesterday it still had a lot a lot of pressure in the system.
So after looking at all the fuses, I found a blown 30 AMP fuse behind the arm rest in the back seat.
Replaced and boom, she started right up!
Now the question is, why did it blow?
I'm assuming a consistent load for over 200,000 miles may have caused it, or a short somewhere?
I'm going to see if the problem arises again.
I'm not sure if I'm paranoid but I do smell a slight fuel odor around the rear of my car but cant see a leak anywhere.
Now wondering if filling up with gas, the blown fuse and odor are connected??
I'm going to keep an eye on it and post any updates.
I guess when I checked it yesterday it still had a lot a lot of pressure in the system.
So after looking at all the fuses, I found a blown 30 AMP fuse behind the arm rest in the back seat.
Replaced and boom, she started right up!
Now the question is, why did it blow?
I'm assuming a consistent load for over 200,000 miles may have caused it, or a short somewhere?
I'm going to see if the problem arises again.
I'm not sure if I'm paranoid but I do smell a slight fuel odor around the rear of my car but cant see a leak anywhere.
Now wondering if filling up with gas, the blown fuse and odor are connected??
I'm going to keep an eye on it and post any updates.
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Posts: 79
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From: PA
S550 4MATIC W221, W222, Lotus Elise
So I decided to check for fuel pressure this morning and nada.
I guess when I checked it yesterday it still had a lot a lot of pressure in the system.
So after looking at all the fuses, I found a blown 30 AMP fuse behind the arm rest in the back seat.
Replaced and boom, she started right up!
Now the question is, why did it blow?
I'm assuming a consistent load for over 200,000 miles may have caused it, or a short somewhere?
I'm going to see if the problem arises again.
I'm not sure if I'm paranoid but I do smell a slight fuel odor around the rear of my car but cant see a leak anywhere.
Now wondering if filling up with gas, the blown fuse and odor are connected??
I'm going to keep an eye on it and post any updates.
I guess when I checked it yesterday it still had a lot a lot of pressure in the system.
So after looking at all the fuses, I found a blown 30 AMP fuse behind the arm rest in the back seat.
Replaced and boom, she started right up!
Now the question is, why did it blow?
I'm assuming a consistent load for over 200,000 miles may have caused it, or a short somewhere?
I'm going to see if the problem arises again.
I'm not sure if I'm paranoid but I do smell a slight fuel odor around the rear of my car but cant see a leak anywhere.
Now wondering if filling up with gas, the blown fuse and odor are connected??
I'm going to keep an eye on it and post any updates.
Here was my post before
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...pump-fuse.html
Last edited by mb1000; Nov 5, 2015 at 03:38 PM.
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I got pump wire cut in the gas tank. Wire was loose and constantly touches sharpe edge caused short.
Here was my post before
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...pump-fuse.html
Here was my post before
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...pump-fuse.html
I think I have a fuel smell when full and after reading it seems common that the seals dry up, so I need to get the seat up anyway.
Thanks
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2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
I got pump wire cut in the gas tank. Wire was loose and constantly touches sharpe edge caused short.
Here was my post before
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...pump-fuse.html
Here was my post before
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...pump-fuse.html
