2007 s550 engine WONT reach temp
The thermostat in this car costs under $100 and comes as one giant piece.. thermostat housing, thermostat, electrical sensor/connector.
The entire housing is replaced and it doesn't take long. It has a spring clip rather than a hose clamp, so it's pretty easy to unbolt and re-attach. I think an idler pulley has to come off because one bolt is behind it, but it's easy to remove.
Thermostat is complex.. there is a sensor and it basically decides (or is told by the engine computer) when to open and shut. At idle and wide open throttle, it behaves differently than a regular thermostat to ensure the engine heats up faster, and stays warm at idle (without overheating). There is a 5 page WIS document on the web explaining it in excruciating detail if you want more info

My car had no problems running under temp, but when I replace it I started to get more heat in the winters.
I don't believe this code sets a check engine light. I never got one.
I would look into that. I think P0128 is specifically described as "engine not reaching operating temp" or something like that. The description matches what you are running into.
Anyone here have any suggestions for me please. Oh pretty pretty please. Thanks.
Second error on most MB models is a simple cam "magnet" sensor. Not that hard to change (an hour or two at most if I recall correctly.. you can do it yourself)
Don't panic just yet.. I suspect under $100 for a thermostat plus a relatively inexpensive cam sensor will fix your problems.
Do some reading on the cam sensors.. they were defective and I think some C class owners were replacing them all when one threw an error code. Look into it as you may want to do them all at once.
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$25 magnet
$50 in screws and bolts
$450 labour 3hrs @ $150/hr
If you open the hood and pull off the plastic cover, you can see these magnets. They are held in by Torx screws (3 screws I believe) and just unscrew.
I'm sure there may be something in the way (depending on which one you are removing) that has to be removed/reinstalled, but it can't be that complex.
I'd get a flashlight, magnetic retreival tool (for when you drop the little screws!) and a new camshaft magnet + 1 extra new screw. I'm sure it can't even take you 2 hours if you're reasonably handy and have the proper torx t-handle wrench (or torx screwdriver) all ready to go.
Any indy shop can swap this for you for a reasonable cost. No need to go to dealer.. these are incredibly common across MB models. It's about as universal as being able to mount a tire on a "Mercedes-specific" wheel.. not everyone can do it, but any good tire shop can do just as well as the dealer. Same kind of thing.
By the way the magnets used to run $20-25 at the dealer..should be the same price range now.
My wife has a neck injury and the s class is the only car she has ever been in that she can actually take trips in. I'm talking anything more than an hour. We purchased the car with 98,000 and have driven 10,000 in the last 6 months(she has been mostly house bound for the last ten years). We could not get a warranty company to touch this car. I would hate to have to spend large amounts of money to keep this car running, but I would.
. Does anyone know of an easier way to do this? Thanks in advance for your replies.
i also have a 2007 S550 showing check engine light on. I went to O'reily to scan for code and it says P0128, and that's the thermostat per the employee. What brand did you buy for your thermostat, what website, and how much? Please if you have any tips on replacing the thermostat let me know. Much appreciate your help.
if its something simple you might choose to save a few pennies and buy a copy - plenty of big companies sell alleged good parts to OEM spec
I actually bought a Gates labeled part - but if I'm honest I don't think its as good as a stock one
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...at-change.html
the Merc stat in the UK costs the equiv of $200
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Last edited by BOTUS; Nov 27, 2024 at 06:13 PM.
P0125 detects the car is taking to long to warm up to temp - so throws the light
P0128 is saying the stat is playing up - often stuck open
around 2006 they reinvented the wheel - to drive efficiency they introduced electrically heatable thermostats - they run the engine hotter (for efficiency) and to stop issues, its linked to the engine ECU - this determines vehicle load and turns On or Off the heater in the stat. Rip it hard / drive up a hill and the heater opens the stat to get significant coolant flow... when its driven slower it turns Off to reduce the flow and run the car hotter...
It wasn't "allegedly" just the accountant saying if I make the heated stat pop its heater element around the 7 to 10 years mark I can destroy the engine on 7 out of 10 cars - thus driving up sales of new cars.....
get the new O Ring before starting the job ! (see my link)










