S600 engine running loud and rough when cold
#1
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S600 engine running loud and rough when cold
This symptom has been occurring for the last couple of months. When I start the car, it runs and idles fine. But when I hit the road, it runs very loud...almost like I have exhaust cut-outs and there is a vibration that I can feel throughout the car and what sounds like a wind buffeting noise. After the car is fully warmed up and at full operating temps, the car becomes quiet and the vibrations stop.
No check engine lights were coming on and I didn't pull any new or stored codes while all of this was going on. Last week, my check engine light finally came on, and I pulled codes P0505 and P20a2. I contacted the dealer and took it in for service. Apparently the codes were emissions related and a vacuum hose had become detached. They did not pull any codes for any misfires or anything else. After the hose was reattached, they cleared the codes and nothing new popped up. The problem is that the cold start symptoms are still there. The tech didn't see any leaks from the engine mounts, but said that at almost 10 years old, even though I only have 33k miles, those can go bad and cause vibrations. I asked why it would go away when the car is warm and he said that the exhaust gases can warm them up and the vibration can go away.
They've ordered the 3 engine mounts and will be replacing them, but I'm concerned that this will not fix the issue with the vibration and loud engine when cold. I figured that a coil pack might have gone bad, but the tech said that would throw a code if it was the case.
Has anybody else run into this issue? If so, what ended up being the problem and what was done to fix it?
No check engine lights were coming on and I didn't pull any new or stored codes while all of this was going on. Last week, my check engine light finally came on, and I pulled codes P0505 and P20a2. I contacted the dealer and took it in for service. Apparently the codes were emissions related and a vacuum hose had become detached. They did not pull any codes for any misfires or anything else. After the hose was reattached, they cleared the codes and nothing new popped up. The problem is that the cold start symptoms are still there. The tech didn't see any leaks from the engine mounts, but said that at almost 10 years old, even though I only have 33k miles, those can go bad and cause vibrations. I asked why it would go away when the car is warm and he said that the exhaust gases can warm them up and the vibration can go away.
They've ordered the 3 engine mounts and will be replacing them, but I'm concerned that this will not fix the issue with the vibration and loud engine when cold. I figured that a coil pack might have gone bad, but the tech said that would throw a code if it was the case.
Has anybody else run into this issue? If so, what ended up being the problem and what was done to fix it?
#2
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cant say Ive experienced this, I did notice mine ran better after an oil change? maybe switching to a colder weather oil would help?
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2015 S550
Here's another one from last night. A little louder because it was a little colder outside. If you turn your volume all the way up, it will give a good idea of what it sounds like in my car before the engine warms up. Very loud with vibration throughout the cabin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHco...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHco...ature=youtu.be
#5
Couple thoughts:
In order of likelihood imo:
1. You still have a vacuum leak somewhere
2. You have an exhaust leak or colapsed / torn exhaust bushing
3. Your secondary air injection pump has a sticky relay which keeps it on for longer and stops it when relay warms up and disengages
4. You have a colapsed engine/ tranny mount and drivetrain is hitting frame/ exhaust
5. You have blown header gasket or header bolts have become loose allowing exhaust gasses to escape until engine warms up and exhaust expands and closes gaps
6. You have a blown head gasket
Car is generally quiet so such a loud noise can easily be pinpointed with chassis ears. The dealer has the tool- tell them to use it if they are out of ideas
In order of likelihood imo:
1. You still have a vacuum leak somewhere
2. You have an exhaust leak or colapsed / torn exhaust bushing
3. Your secondary air injection pump has a sticky relay which keeps it on for longer and stops it when relay warms up and disengages
4. You have a colapsed engine/ tranny mount and drivetrain is hitting frame/ exhaust
5. You have blown header gasket or header bolts have become loose allowing exhaust gasses to escape until engine warms up and exhaust expands and closes gaps
6. You have a blown head gasket
Car is generally quiet so such a loud noise can easily be pinpointed with chassis ears. The dealer has the tool- tell them to use it if they are out of ideas
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Thank you sir! I'll let you know if that are able to pinpoint the problem and report back.
Quick question: Would any of the items on your list throw a code or check engine light? Because I don't have any of those right now.
Quick question: Would any of the items on your list throw a code or check engine light? Because I don't have any of those right now.
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LI32.50-P-048280: https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ml#post3832463
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It's only for the first 5 minutes or so until it's warm. Then it purrs like a ***** cat again. What may make it harder for tracking the issue is that it idles fine and while revving the engine in park it doesn't get loud. It only seems to be on the road where it roars and vibrates until fully warm.
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It definitely is happening at a frequency that's decoupled from the drive train sound. (Love the way that V12 sounds BTW...never heard one before. That's the engine every 221 should have.) There has to be something making contact and rattling that's not supposed to be in contact. The key is the fact it goes away when the engine gets hot. Maybe that business about the mounts is correct. How's the warranty company been about handling the diagnostics?
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It definitely is happening at a frequency that's decoupled from the drive train sound. (Love the way that V12 sounds BTW...never heard one before. That's the engine every 221 should have.) There has to be something making contact and rattling that's not supposed to be in contact. The key is the fact it goes away when the engine gets hot. Maybe that business about the mounts is correct. How's the warranty company been about handling the diagnostics?
My warranty company pays for diagnostics if it leads to a covered repair. Motor mounts are covered under my warranty. I just wish it was something obvious that could be picked up through a thrown code. Their V12/AMG tech didn't pick it up during a test drive while the engine was still cold, which I find disconcerting, especially since the vibration and noise was very obvious when I left their parking lot after picking up my car. I really don't see how new motor mounts would get rid of the loud howling and buffeting sound. I think they're gonna have to get a different tech behind the wheel to pin it down.
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
Normally I can hardly hear the V12 as it is a very quiet car....much like a Lexus. And I certainly never hear the turbos whining or feel a turbo rush as the power is there immediately without any lag.
My warranty company pays for diagnostics if it leads to a covered repair. Motor mounts are covered under my warranty. I just wish it was something obvious that could be picked up through a thrown code. Their V12/AMG tech didn't pick it up during a test drive while the engine was still cold, which I find disconcerting, especially since the vibration and noise was very obvious when I left their parking lot after picking up my car. I really don't see how new motor mounts would get rid of the loud howling and buffeting sound. I think they're gonna have to get a different tech behind the wheel to pin it down.
My warranty company pays for diagnostics if it leads to a covered repair. Motor mounts are covered under my warranty. I just wish it was something obvious that could be picked up through a thrown code. Their V12/AMG tech didn't pick it up during a test drive while the engine was still cold, which I find disconcerting, especially since the vibration and noise was very obvious when I left their parking lot after picking up my car. I really don't see how new motor mounts would get rid of the loud howling and buffeting sound. I think they're gonna have to get a different tech behind the wheel to pin it down.
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It definitely is happening at a frequency that's decoupled from the drive train sound. (Love the way that V12 sounds BTW...never heard one before. That's the engine every 221 should have.) There has to be something making contact and rattling that's not supposed to be in contact. The key is the fact it goes away when the engine gets hot. Maybe that business about the mounts is correct. How's the warranty company been about handling the diagnostics?
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Were you able to replicate it with a tech in the car? Agree it seems unlikely that the only symptom of a blown mount is a rattle while the engine is cold. Sucks, both because as it stands it's ruining your enjoyment of the car, and also rendering it temporarily unsellable. Nobody is going to take on a TT V12 making that racket, so one way or another it has to get fixed.
Then again, these are strange and fickle beasts. Maybe fresh mounts will do it. If you think about it, the tranny mount might be the culprit. When it collapses, the tranny drops a bit and it can allow contact between the drivetrain and exhaust. When the exhaust is cold, the contact may be intermittent, causing the rattle. When the exhaust heats up, it expands enough to close the gap to the point where the contact is constant...no rattle.
Then again, these are strange and fickle beasts. Maybe fresh mounts will do it. If you think about it, the tranny mount might be the culprit. When it collapses, the tranny drops a bit and it can allow contact between the drivetrain and exhaust. When the exhaust is cold, the contact may be intermittent, causing the rattle. When the exhaust heats up, it expands enough to close the gap to the point where the contact is constant...no rattle.
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Were you able to replicate it with a tech in the car? Agree it seems unlikely that the only symptom of a blown mount is a rattle while the engine is cold. Sucks, both because as it stands it's ruining your enjoyment of the car, and also rendering it temporarily unsellable. Nobody is going to take on a TT V12 making that racket, so one way or another it has to get fixed.
Then again, these are strange and fickle beasts. Maybe fresh mounts will do it. If you think about it, the tranny mount might be the culprit. When it collapses, the tranny drops a bit and it can allow contact between the drivetrain and exhaust. When the exhaust is cold, the contact may be intermittent, causing the rattle. When the exhaust heats up, it expands enough to close the gap to the point where the contact is constant...no rattle.
Then again, these are strange and fickle beasts. Maybe fresh mounts will do it. If you think about it, the tranny mount might be the culprit. When it collapses, the tranny drops a bit and it can allow contact between the drivetrain and exhaust. When the exhaust is cold, the contact may be intermittent, causing the rattle. When the exhaust heats up, it expands enough to close the gap to the point where the contact is constant...no rattle.
I suppose it could be the tranny mount since they did put in a new transmission last year. We'll see...
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Couldn't listen to it as the video is listed as private, but we had to replace the motor mounts on our SL600 a few years ago.
Glad you got the repair covered. Mine was quoted over $3k for that. A bit more noise but mostly vibration.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...-thoughts.html
Glad you got the repair covered. Mine was quoted over $3k for that. A bit more noise but mostly vibration.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...-thoughts.html
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Couldn't listen to it as the video is listed as private, but we had to replace the motor mounts on our SL600 a few years ago.
Glad you got the repair covered. Mine was quoted over $3k for that. A bit more noise but mostly vibration.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...-thoughts.html
Glad you got the repair covered. Mine was quoted over $3k for that. A bit more noise but mostly vibration.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...-thoughts.html
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Sounds like there is more space in the S-Class engine bay. Our engine had to be pulled completely
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Motor mounts were all replaced yesterday. The front left mount was broken and all fluid had leaked out. The right mount was collapsed and leaking, and the trans mount was wearing, likely from the vibrations. Amazingly, the car is smooth and quiet again. I'm not sure why the howling disappeared from when the engine was cold, but that's gone too. Total cost of the job was around $975, of which my warranty picked up all but my $100 deductible.
Last edited by DaveW68; 02-24-2016 at 02:15 PM.
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