Changing Airmatic Valve Block or Compressor without a lift.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 314
Likes: 35
From: New York
2010 CL550
Changing Airmatic Valve Block or Compressor without a lift.
ive heard that it is not possible to replace the valve block without all 4 wheels off the ground and the suspension completely unloaded, is this accurate? does this also apply to replacing only the compressor?
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 713
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From: Brooklyn, NY
2007 S550 4Matic 2013 S550 Base
Yes, this is accurate, all four wheels off the ground. If you were doing suspension work on the front(shock, sway bar links, etc) you need both front wheels off the ground.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 314
Likes: 35
From: New York
2010 CL550
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 713
Likes: 214
From: Brooklyn, NY
2007 S550 4Matic 2013 S550 Base
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 427
Likes: 57
13 GL350, 14 SL550
Compressor is easy on the ground. Jack up front right side and remove the wheel. Lots of access.
If you are in a winter area, buy the bracket along with the compressor. I got my compressor off, only to find the mounting studs and nuts on the bracket all rusty. Had to wire tie the thing back together and drive for a day until the dealer was able to get a new bracket in. I believe the mounting bracket is a dealer-only part and none of the dealers in the area had it in stock.. so order it early if you think you'll need it.
Compressor is a very easy replacement.
Haven't done a valve block but I don't see why you would need the entire car in the air other than for the fact that the struts will collapse when being depressurized.
I would personally jack up each corner a little and put a jack stand underneath. Basically keep the body at the same height it is now (tires don't need to leave the ground). Then replace.
Make SURE to start up the car and let it pressurize the struts before removing the jack stands. The worst thing to do with these struts is to drop the car on the ground with the struts collapsed. Run the car 2-3 mins and they will fill up, then you can remove jacks/stands/etc.
If you are in a winter area, buy the bracket along with the compressor. I got my compressor off, only to find the mounting studs and nuts on the bracket all rusty. Had to wire tie the thing back together and drive for a day until the dealer was able to get a new bracket in. I believe the mounting bracket is a dealer-only part and none of the dealers in the area had it in stock.. so order it early if you think you'll need it.
Compressor is a very easy replacement.
Haven't done a valve block but I don't see why you would need the entire car in the air other than for the fact that the struts will collapse when being depressurized.
I would personally jack up each corner a little and put a jack stand underneath. Basically keep the body at the same height it is now (tires don't need to leave the ground). Then replace.
Make SURE to start up the car and let it pressurize the struts before removing the jack stands. The worst thing to do with these struts is to drop the car on the ground with the struts collapsed. Run the car 2-3 mins and they will fill up, then you can remove jacks/stands/etc.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 314
Likes: 35
From: New York
2010 CL550
Compressor is easy on the ground. Jack up front right side and remove the wheel. Lots of access.
If you are in a winter area, buy the bracket along with the compressor. I got my compressor off, only to find the mounting studs and nuts on the bracket all rusty. Had to wire tie the thing back together and drive for a day until the dealer was able to get a new bracket in. I believe the mounting bracket is a dealer-only part and none of the dealers in the area had it in stock.. so order it early if you think you'll need it.
Compressor is a very easy replacement.
Haven't done a valve block but I don't see why you would need the entire car in the air other than for the fact that the struts will collapse when being depressurized.
I would personally jack up each corner a little and put a jack stand underneath. Basically keep the body at the same height it is now (tires don't need to leave the ground). Then replace.
Make SURE to start up the car and let it pressurize the struts before removing the jack stands. The worst thing to do with these struts is to drop the car on the ground with the struts collapsed. Run the car 2-3 mins and they will fill up, then you can remove jacks/stands/etc.
If you are in a winter area, buy the bracket along with the compressor. I got my compressor off, only to find the mounting studs and nuts on the bracket all rusty. Had to wire tie the thing back together and drive for a day until the dealer was able to get a new bracket in. I believe the mounting bracket is a dealer-only part and none of the dealers in the area had it in stock.. so order it early if you think you'll need it.
Compressor is a very easy replacement.
Haven't done a valve block but I don't see why you would need the entire car in the air other than for the fact that the struts will collapse when being depressurized.
I would personally jack up each corner a little and put a jack stand underneath. Basically keep the body at the same height it is now (tires don't need to leave the ground). Then replace.
Make SURE to start up the car and let it pressurize the struts before removing the jack stands. The worst thing to do with these struts is to drop the car on the ground with the struts collapsed. Run the car 2-3 mins and they will fill up, then you can remove jacks/stands/etc.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 427
Likes: 57
13 GL350, 14 SL550
Yes definitely buy the bracket and all assembly parts before you start.
If I recall, the bracket had 3 studs, then 3 rubber suspension buffers and 3 springs went on next (the compressor "hangs" on rubber buffers rather than being firmly mounted to the car.. to reduce vibration)
Then there were 3 nuts that went on the end.
I ended up buying the bracket, 3 buffers, 3 springs, and 3 nuts. If I recall correctly the bracket was about $50-75 Canadian and the other parts were another $50. So you'll probably spend over $100US if buying at the dealer, but try to order via GenuineMercedesParts or RM European/FCP Euro if you aren't in a rush.
Once you get under the car you'll see it's very easy to remove and reinstall everything. Hoses on compressor, wiring connector, 3 nuts/bolts/springs, bracket, etc. That's about it. Now that I have done it, I could probably do it a second time in 1hr. I think the first time took 2hrs or so.
If I recall, the bracket had 3 studs, then 3 rubber suspension buffers and 3 springs went on next (the compressor "hangs" on rubber buffers rather than being firmly mounted to the car.. to reduce vibration)
Then there were 3 nuts that went on the end.
I ended up buying the bracket, 3 buffers, 3 springs, and 3 nuts. If I recall correctly the bracket was about $50-75 Canadian and the other parts were another $50. So you'll probably spend over $100US if buying at the dealer, but try to order via GenuineMercedesParts or RM European/FCP Euro if you aren't in a rush.
Once you get under the car you'll see it's very easy to remove and reinstall everything. Hoses on compressor, wiring connector, 3 nuts/bolts/springs, bracket, etc. That's about it. Now that I have done it, I could probably do it a second time in 1hr. I think the first time took 2hrs or so.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 314
Likes: 35
From: New York
2010 CL550
Yes definitely buy the bracket and all assembly parts before you start.
If I recall, the bracket had 3 studs, then 3 rubber suspension buffers and 3 springs went on next (the compressor "hangs" on rubber buffers rather than being firmly mounted to the car.. to reduce vibration)
Then there were 3 nuts that went on the end.
I ended up buying the bracket, 3 buffers, 3 springs, and 3 nuts. If I recall correctly the bracket was about $50-75 Canadian and the other parts were another $50. So you'll probably spend over $100US if buying at the dealer, but try to order via GenuineMercedesParts or RM European/FCP Euro if you aren't in a rush.
Once you get under the car you'll see it's very easy to remove and reinstall everything. Hoses on compressor, wiring connector, 3 nuts/bolts/springs, bracket, etc. That's about it. Now that I have done it, I could probably do it a second time in 1hr. I think the first time took 2hrs or so.
If I recall, the bracket had 3 studs, then 3 rubber suspension buffers and 3 springs went on next (the compressor "hangs" on rubber buffers rather than being firmly mounted to the car.. to reduce vibration)
Then there were 3 nuts that went on the end.
I ended up buying the bracket, 3 buffers, 3 springs, and 3 nuts. If I recall correctly the bracket was about $50-75 Canadian and the other parts were another $50. So you'll probably spend over $100US if buying at the dealer, but try to order via GenuineMercedesParts or RM European/FCP Euro if you aren't in a rush.
Once you get under the car you'll see it's very easy to remove and reinstall everything. Hoses on compressor, wiring connector, 3 nuts/bolts/springs, bracket, etc. That's about it. Now that I have done it, I could probably do it a second time in 1hr. I think the first time took 2hrs or so.
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 427
Likes: 57
13 GL350, 14 SL550
Always always replace that relay!
They sieze shut and the pump runs until it dies. When you replace the compressor it is a great time to do the relay, and they are cheap insurance.
I actually buy a relay whenever I buy a used MB and swap it then. That way I know I'm good for many years.
The original relays that came with these cars were a problem.. even if you aren't replacing your compressor, it's a good idea to replace the relay to prevent any future problems.. No need to have a compressor replaced because a cheap relay burnt out!
They sieze shut and the pump runs until it dies. When you replace the compressor it is a great time to do the relay, and they are cheap insurance.
I actually buy a relay whenever I buy a used MB and swap it then. That way I know I'm good for many years.
The original relays that came with these cars were a problem.. even if you aren't replacing your compressor, it's a good idea to replace the relay to prevent any future problems.. No need to have a compressor replaced because a cheap relay burnt out!
