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Hello all, I noticed a vibration inside the cabin not to long ago when I’m parked, idling, or at a light. I thought it would’ve been spark plugs so I replaced all 8 and then looked around for anything that looked weird like the coils or the maf sensor, once again I found nothing. So now I’m dead set on changing the motor mounts since that seems to be the main cause for the vibration. Has anyone changed their motor mounts themselves? Do you have to change the tranny mount aswell or is that a separate part to change? Thanks for replies in advance!
I am having a similar issue and about to change all spark plugs. I already cleaned the MAF sensor and performed Idle Relearn. Still, the problem persists and the car does not throw any ODB2 codes. What is weird is, strong vibration only happens at idle, usually stopped at the red light or when engine speed is low (like 1100 rpm) and putting some load on the engine. Further, most of the time it does not happen, just sometimes. If I am at the red light and it starts vibrating (1 second vibrating followed by perhaps few seconds of no vibration) and I put the transmission to Neutral, then the vibration does not go away, but feels less strong. While the car is vibrating and I look at the tachometer, there is no indication that engine speed varies, suggesting that it is not a misfire. Otherwise, there should have been a code. Hence, I am now inclined to think that problem item has to be on a component where there are no sensors, such as Engine and Transmission mounts. What is throwing me off from this conclusion is the fact that vibration does not happen all the time. I would have thought if a mechanical component such as mounts are defective, I would feel that vibration all the time.
I would like to hear other's opinion as to whether it is reasonable to replace Engine and Transmission mounts as a next step.
Thanks
The motor and trans mounts have a terminal life and absolutely do fail ultimately from vibration. No news there.
i don't know how to project mechanical lifespan but a visual inspection can reveal condition. Regardless, they don't last. Mine have been changed and all is silky smooth like new.
I am having a similar issue and about to change all spark plugs. I already cleaned the MAF sensor and performed Idle Relearn. Still, the problem persists and the car does not throw any ODB2 codes. What is weird is, strong vibration only happens at idle, usually stopped at the red light or when engine speed is low (like 1100 rpm) and putting some load on the engine. Further, most of the time it does not happen, just sometimes. If I am at the red light and it starts vibrating (1 second vibrating followed by perhaps few seconds of no vibration) and I put the transmission to Neutral, then the vibration does not go away, but feels less strong. While the car is vibrating and I look at the tachometer, there is no indication that engine speed varies, suggesting that it is not a misfire. Otherwise, there should have been a code. Hence, I am now inclined to think that problem item has to be on a component where there are no sensors, such as Engine and Transmission mounts. What is throwing me off from this conclusion is the fact that vibration does not happen all the time. I would have thought if a mechanical component such as mounts are defective, I would feel that vibration all the time.
I would like to hear other's opinion as to whether it is reasonable to replace Engine and Transmission mounts as a next step.
Thanks
i thought that aswell, I just recently hit about 80k miles on my w221 07, I would feel the vibration every now and then but it gets more aggressive with time trust me. How did you relearn your idle? My idle sits at about 600 if I’m correct I’ll check once I’m out of work but I think it’s the motor mounts. I’ve seen that supposedly once changing the vibration stops and it’s “like driving a new car”. Btw my spark plugs were factory and they were burnt at 80k which is when i changed them but it made little to no difference at all every red light is the same
i thought that aswell, I just recently hit about 80k miles on my w221 07, I would feel the vibration every now and then but it gets more aggressive with time trust me. How did you relearn your idle? My idle sits at about 600 if I’m correct I’ll check once I’m out of work but I think it’s the motor mounts. I’ve seen that supposedly once changing the vibration stops and it’s “like driving a new car”. Btw my spark plugs were factory and they were burnt at 80k which is when i changed them but it made little to no difference at all every red light is the same
My 07 is at 77,000 and it started vibration at stop lights at around 65,000. I can put the car in neutral or park and it does go away. I had my mounts changed about a year ago with no change in the vibration.
Not sure what my next move is, try to unstressed the mount as listed in the other thread?
My 07 is at 77,000 and it started vibration at stop lights at around 65,000. I can put the car in neutral or park and it does go away. I had my mounts changed about a year ago with no change in the vibration.
Not sure what my next move is, try to unstressed the mount as listed in the other thread?
where did you see unstressing the mount?
supposedly what I’ve seen as mentioned before, if you get a cel with vibration it’s usually a misfire. Either that or it’s a coil or something not very hard to find since it will throw a code. But other than that the top 3 things it could be that makes the w221 vibrate is either bad spark plugs, maf sensor, or motor mounts
Relearning of Idle is simple. Put the key on position 2 (just before engine startup) and leave it for 2 minutes. You will hear the Throttle body going through the relearn process. Put the key to an Off position and remove the key. Restart the engine and you are done.
As for my vibration at Idle issue, I changed all the spark plugs and so far no more vibration!
Hello all, I noticed a vibration inside the cabin not to long ago when I’m parked, idling, or at a light. I thought it would’ve been spark plugs so I replaced all 8 and then looked around for anything that looked weird like the coils or the maf sensor, once again I found nothing. So now I’m dead set on changing the motor mounts since that seems to be the main cause for the vibration. Has anyone changed their motor mounts themselves? Do you have to change the tranny mount aswell or is that a separate part to change? Thanks for replies in advance!
I get that too on cold days when the car is in drive. It goes away once the car warms up a bit. I assumed it was normal. I know my Trans and engine mounts were replaced by MB at some point a couple of years ago. Supposedly the new months were upgraded units that are to last the lifetime of the car. Is this a new thing your car is doing? It's a big job to do on your back in your driveway.
I get that too on cold days when the car is in drive. It goes away once the car warms up a bit. I assumed it was normal. I know my Trans and engine mounts were replaced by MB at some point a couple of years ago. Supposedly the new months were upgraded units that are to last the lifetime of the car. Is this a new thing your car is doing? It's a big job to do on your back in your driveway.
So big update, I had my mechanic come out and take a look at my car today and he immediately found that the vibration in the cabin was the motor mounts and also stated that the 2 major problems with the motor mounts is the fluid in some of the aftermarket mounts are not mb certified and that some are even shipped half assed or incomplete, but he’s charging 200 for labor and said the ones he’ll order should meet mb standards and even perform better keeping any vibration out, my advice to anyone having this vibration, check your spark plugs and check your coils if possible, if nothing then I’d say check your maf sensor. If vibration persists check your mounts and that should usually be the problem according to my mech. He also said if you feel the vibration and you get a cel, it’s usually none of the above it’s usually a cylinder misfire as someone had stated before. Hope this helps anyone else having this issue with vibration in cabin
So big update, I had my mechanic come out and take a look at my car today and he immediately found that the vibration in the cabin was the motor mounts and also stated that the 2 major problems with the motor mounts is the fluid in some of the aftermarket mounts are not mb certified and that some are even shipped half assed or incomplete, but he’s charging 200 for labor and said the ones he’ll order should meet mb standards and even perform better keeping any vibration out, my advice to anyone having this vibration, check your spark plugs and check your coils if possible, if nothing then I’d say check your maf sensor. If vibration persists check your mounts and that should usually be the problem according to my mech. He also said if you feel the vibration and you get a cel, it’s usually none of the above it’s usually a cylinder misfire as someone had stated before. Hope this helps anyone else having this issue with vibration in cabin
Well, that's good news that you seem to have figured out the issue. My understanding was that MB stopped using the gel motor mounts altogether.
@vianof900: did you ever change your mounts? If so how did it go? I need to change the mounts on mine.
Sorry for such a late reply, it went great you really feel the difference from having bad mounts to new ones. but to anyone that ever reads this, the hard vibration definitely stopped and it for sure gave the car new life!
I am bumping this because I am going through this issue at the moment.
I ordered a transmission mount... Should be here soon. Figured I would try the low hanging fruit first.
If that doesn't fix it, I'm going to need to get some quotes on engine mounts or carefully give them a shot myself. From what I understand, the motor mounts are pretty easy as long as you have the right tools and equipment. Should be no more than a 2-3 hours at an independent repair shop.
I am bumping this because I am going through this issue at the moment.
I ordered a transmission mount... Should be here soon. Figured I would try the low hanging fruit first.
If that doesn't fix it, I'm going to need to get some quotes on engine mounts or carefully give them a shot myself. From what I understand, the motor mounts are pretty easy as long as you have the right tools and equipment. Should be no more than a 2-3 hours at an independent repair shop.
more than likely it’ll be your motor mounts. Most motor mounts will be around in between $70-$150 I’d like to hear from your results though regardless just to know if anything changes from replacing the tranny mounts.
I am bumping this because I am going through this issue at the moment.
I ordered a transmission mount... Should be here soon. Figured I would try the low hanging fruit first.
If that doesn't fix it, I'm going to need to get some quotes on engine mounts or carefully give them a shot myself. From what I understand, the motor mounts are pretty easy as long as you have the right tools and equipment. Should be no more than a 2-3 hours at an independent repair shop.
Transmission mount is an easy replacement, the motor mounts will require you to lift the engine. I'm about to do this job in the coming weeks. I have the engine hoist that I picked up from Harbor Freight which should make the job easier.
Motor mount and transmission mount can cause vibration, however if your car sometimes vibration and sometime is not then problem is due to engine. The problem due to air leak on intake manifold, there are a rubber gasket on the throttle and on the MAF, due to heat, oil then these gasket is aging and make air leak, air leak causing air/fuel ratio is not accurate then engine vibration, this vibration is easy to feel when the car is in idle because idle state requires accurate air/fuel ratio.
New gaskets Old gasket, rubber is very hard and not soft any more --> air leak.
Motor mount and transmission mount can cause vibration, however if your car sometimes vibration and sometime is not then problem is due to engine. The problem due to air leak on intake manifold, there are a rubber gasket on the throttle and on the MAF, due to heat, oil then these gasket is aging and make air leak, air leak causing air/fuel ratio is not accurate then engine vibration, this vibration is easy to feel when the car is in idle because idle state requires accurate air/fuel ratio.
New gaskets Old gasket, rubber is very hard and not soft any more --> air leak.
Thanks for this, Do you have the part number for this gasket?
Thanks Konigstiger.. On the part number Mercedes-Benz 273 141 07 80, I am not showing it fit the 2007 S550. Am I missing something here? Thanks again. Paul
Thanks Konigstiger.. On the part number Mercedes-Benz 273 141 07 80, I am not showing it fit the 2007 S550. Am I missing something here? Thanks again. Paul
For my 2007 S550 4Matic those part numbers are accurate.
04-12-2019, 03:58 PM
. Has anyone tried that btw
