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So the bracket on the sway bar rusted and broke, the rear of the car dropped. The sensor was reading properly so I got the new arm with the new clamp that goes around the sway bar. HOW DO I CLOSE THIS THING???!!!! I am close to closing it but the new metal clamp has so little give I can not get the stupid thing to clamp closed. IS there a secret way to do this? All I need to do to finish this is get this stupid clamp to close. Under the car for more than an hour trying. Thanks for any help!!!
I think I found the tool. But, you have to remove some things first
Last edited by chrise&sclass; Nov 10, 2022 at 10:20 PM.
you don't its a nightmare use a worm-drive hose pipe clamp that allows the spring legs to deflect and take up the shock - AKA a narrow stainless one that maybe you modify a bit to sit within and grip the correct bit
also noting there is a flat on the ARB that makes it sit at the correct angel of dangle
the secret would be with the whole arm on the workbench - they are just idiots
you don't its a nightmare use a worm-drive hose pipe clamp that allows the spring legs to deflect and take up the shock - AKA a narrow stainless one that maybe you modify a bit to sit within and grip the correct bit
also noting there is a flat on the ARB that makes it sit at the correct angel of dangle
the secret would be with the whole arm on the workbench - they are just idiots
I am seriously contemplating using 2 heavy duty hose clamps to hold it in place over the "clip" which I can not close. I was thinking of loosening the sway bar, not take it out, so I an move it to get to the clamp easier. You say there is a "flat spot" I did not realize this. I will be sure to find it before I "complete" this repair.
I would really like to use the clamp as intended but I really see no way to do it without dropping the subframe to get enough room on the sway bar. I am not doing that.
I would really like to use the clamp as intended but I really see no way to do it without dropping the subframe to get enough room on the sway bar. I am not doing that.
I used the worm clamp hoping that it would serve to close the clamp that came with the assembly. It may have done that job, but the worm clamp did its job of keeping the assembly attached securely to the sway bar.
I don't understand why would they make it so hard to replace especially being an item that has a high falling rate? It shouldn't be so overly complicated. It is only an easy sensor holder
I don't understand why would they make it so hard to replace especially being an item that has a high falling rate? It shouldn't be so overly complicated. It is only an easy sensor holder
Because it happens mostly after the "projected life expectancy" of the car.
and or they can charge a lot to do at a dealership
the silly clamp hardly does anything the clip is more luck than engineering - a worm-drive clamp would be many times stronger....
if you look the 14mm wide clamp (guessing about its size, about 9/16ths in foreign money) is meant to have a cushioning element to it - I guess so less shock reaches the lever senor potentiometer and hence it copes with life better. This cushioning comes from the 4 legs - a wide clamp will squash these legs, weakening the new one and stopping the shock absorption - hence you need a narrow clamp that sits between the legs (in the middle of its width)
the ARB is NOT meant to be loosened from it ends and twisted up in the bushes to get clearance - these days ARB bushes are meant to be bonded to the arm to stop noises and control roll better. If the hole arm was disconnected maybe there's a chance but aside from zero clearance in situ there must be a proprietary tool to get that silly clip closed
and or they can charge a lot to do at a dealership
the silly clamp hardly does anything the clip is more luck than engineering - a worm-drive clamp would be many times stronger....
if you look the 14mm wide clamp (guessing about its size, about 9/16ths in foreign money) is meant to have a cushioning element to it - I guess so less shock reaches the lever senor potentiometer and hence it copes with life better. This cushioning comes from the 4 legs - a wide clamp will squash these legs, weakening the new one and stopping the shock absorption - hence you need a narrow clamp that sits between the legs (in the middle of its width)
the ARB is NOT meant to be loosened from it ends and twisted up in the bushes to get clearance - these days ARB bushes are meant to be bonded to the arm to stop noises and control roll better. If the hole arm was disconnected maybe there's a chance but aside from zero clearance in situ there must be a proprietary tool to get that silly clip closed
I'm not sure if I buy into that "cushioning" effect. But, after thinking about it, I should have tried attaching the clamp where I had clearance and then pushing it into place. Just a thought, may not even work.
I'm not sure if I buy into that "cushioning" effect. But, after thinking about it, I should have tried attaching the clamp where I had clearance and then pushing it into place. Just a thought, may not even work.
I am not so sure about the cushioning since from what I remember the front sensors are connected directly to the control arms with no cushion.
no way it would slide - especially as it only fits on the recessed flat on the arm - take a look the rear sensor has the ball at the arm sprung
I havent gone back to finish the job yet but I did not see any flat part. I think I will finish tomorrow and definitely will be sure to line those parts up. The tabs inside the clip are the part that keep me from latching the clip together. They push back so hard for that "cushion" I am unable to close it from the limited access I have and my big hands. I will try to close it with a small wrench to force the clip to close and a mechanics mirror so I can see what is happening. If that doesnt work I may press down those tabs a little before I just use the hose clamps. I am thinking I will put the hose clamps on in a cross (X) pattern with tie wraps on 2 parts to keep them in place and tighten just enough as if the clamp actually closed leaving some of that "spring" action the tabs provide.
I could be wrong - the front sensors sit after the suspension has absorbed the bump - the rear takes all the shock of the ARB shuddering about with the bumps
if you fit the clamps your way you will crack the little legs ? if you persist trying to compress the ARB the most likely output is you'll get stressed and damage the new parts
I could be wrong - the front sensors sit after the suspension has absorbed the bump - the rear takes all the shock of the ARB shuddering about with the bumps
if you fit the clamps your way you will crack the little legs ? if you persist trying to compress the ARB the most likely output is you'll get stressed and damage the new parts
I only plan on doing the hose clamp way as a last Resort. I would not crank them down as hard as possible only just enough to close it as if the clamp had closed. Doing this I would also try to keep it in place by using some small tie wraps to go around the original clamp and the hose clamps to keep them in place.
I plan on attempting to close it up with the clasp and facing me or down where I can reach it easier and see it then try to "spin" it around on the sway bar to get in place. The other alternative is to completely loosen the sway bar so I have more room but I'd rather not do that.
I don't see it breaking the "legs" as I don't intend on compressing it beyond what it would be normally.
As far as "shock" to the part I think the "ball sockets" on both ends are doing most of that. The sockets are supposed to freely move/rotate. Mine broke because the ball socket at the clip end is completely frozen with rust so that last good bump I hit broke the clip. I believe the "ball sockets" are more important as far as shock is concerned.
Last edited by chrise&sclass; Nov 10, 2022 at 09:38 AM.
quite a good picture of the rear level sensor - and around top right is two of the 4 legs that crack and snap off - showing kind of - the cushioning bit that brings and the hideous clip you can't ever close
For Mine, The problem came from the "Ball socket" attached to the "clip". It rusted solid and could not rotate which caused the clip to break from the sway bar. From now on, since I put a new one on, as regular maintenance I will be spraying the joints on the level sensors and the clips with lubricating and anti-rust spray.
yep, that's exactly what happens the ability for metal to bond to plastic - must have taken them quite some time to develop... not bad on a safety critical part !
I don't understand why would they make it so hard to replace especially being an item that has a high falling rate? It shouldn't be so overly complicated. It is only an easy sensor holder
Because you don't understand that DIY maintenance is never a consideration when German cars are designed. The expectation is it's done by a trained dealer technician who has all special tools and access to published procedures. Germany never had a Model T
Yes, I know this is no help, but it's good to understand the culture I think. And to get Konigtiger to post the WIS document(S).
Because you don't understand that DIY maintenance is never a consideration when German cars are designed. The expectation is it's done by a trained dealer technician who has all special tools and access to published procedures. Germany never had a Model T
Yes, I know this is no help, but it's good to understand the culture I think. And to get Konigtiger to post the WIS document(S).
quite a good picture of the rear level sensor - and around top right is two of the 4 legs that crack and snap off - showing kind of - the cushioning bit that brings and the hideous clip you can't ever close
Cushioning? I think it provides tension not cushion.
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