Airmatic Suspension Preventive Maintenance
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 45
S550
Airmatic Suspension Preventive Maintenance
I have a 2011 S550 with 140,000 miles. I'm pretty easy on it and it has been very dependable with very few issues. I'm concerned about the airmatic suspension longevity. Would it be best to replace it now or wait until I have issues? I intend to keep it as long as possible, hoping for 200,000+ miles, and I realize this is an expensive repair.
I appreciate any advice.
I appreciate any advice.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,142
Likes: 1,294
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
I have a 2011 S550 with 140,000 miles. I'm pretty easy on it and it has been very dependable with very few issues. I'm concerned about the airmatic suspension longevity. Would it be best to replace it now or wait until I have issues? I intend to keep it as long as possible, hoping for 200,000+ miles, and I realize this is an expensive repair.
I appreciate any advice.
I appreciate any advice.
And it is not that awful expensive if you can do it yourself.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 305
Likes: 114
2007 S550
I used a youtube video. There are quite a few. Even one from Arnott. Arnott is who you should buy airmatic parts from. They are great quality and have a lifetime warranty. Don't go with cheap Chinese. You'll end up doing it twice.
Struts, valve block and compressor are the wearable parts that should be replaced. Check the lines and reservoir with leak check spray. You can use bubble soap if you can't find any leak check spray but it's harder to spot leaks and harder to clean up.
Struts, valve block and compressor are the wearable parts that should be replaced. Check the lines and reservoir with leak check spray. You can use bubble soap if you can't find any leak check spray but it's harder to spot leaks and harder to clean up.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,142
Likes: 1,294
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Buy Arnott thru FCPEuro. Like already mentioned they give life time warranty.
Parts about $1200 for front and $1100 for rear. You’ll have to pay $200 core on each that you get refunded after you return the old parts.
Arnott also has instructional videos and you can find others in U-tube. I have done front that is easy job. I have not done rear but I don’t think it is any harder.
Parts about $1200 for front and $1100 for rear. You’ll have to pay $200 core on each that you get refunded after you return the old parts.
Arnott also has instructional videos and you can find others in U-tube. I have done front that is easy job. I have not done rear but I don’t think it is any harder.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 305
Likes: 114
2007 S550
Buy Arnott thru FCPEuro. Like already mentioned they give life time warranty.
Parts about $1200 for front and $1100 for rear. You’ll have to pay $200 core on each that you get refunded after you return the old parts.
Arnott also has instructional videos and you can find others in U-tube. I have done front that is easy job. I have not done rear but I don’t think it is any harder.
Parts about $1200 for front and $1100 for rear. You’ll have to pay $200 core on each that you get refunded after you return the old parts.
Arnott also has instructional videos and you can find others in U-tube. I have done front that is easy job. I have not done rear but I don’t think it is any harder.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 45
S550
Thanks for all of the information! I've checked the prices and installation and I believe I can do it myself.
I'm confused about the choice of compressors - FCP lists 4 options ranging in price from $299 to $419. Rock Auto lists 5 ranging in price from $277 to $375. Any recommendations on which one to choose?
I'm confused about the choice of compressors - FCP lists 4 options ranging in price from $299 to $419. Rock Auto lists 5 ranging in price from $277 to $375. Any recommendations on which one to choose?
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 305
Likes: 114
2007 S550
Thanks for all of the information! I've checked the prices and installation and I believe I can do it myself.
I'm confused about the choice of compressors - FCP lists 4 options ranging in price from $299 to $419. Rock Auto lists 5 ranging in price from $277 to $375. Any recommendations on which one to choose?
I'm confused about the choice of compressors - FCP lists 4 options ranging in price from $299 to $419. Rock Auto lists 5 ranging in price from $277 to $375. Any recommendations on which one to choose?
Also, replace the relay and filter when you do the compressor. Those should always be done together.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
New Electric Mercedes-AMG GT 4-Door Coupe Unveiled: 10 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
6 Mercedes Models That Did NOT Age Well (But Are Somehow Still Cool)
Verdad Gallardo
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 44
Likes: 21
From: UK
S 350 Petrol
I'm replacing my front struts this weekend. I'll post back here if I encounter any tricky bits! Probably the most difficult bit with replacing the rear struts is getting all the trim out of the rear parcel shelf area if you have the Harman Kardon sub in there.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 305
Likes: 114
2007 S550
Or are you doing some "while you're in there" rust fixes in the inner fender area?
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 44
Likes: 21
From: UK
S 350 Petrol
Yep - the steel areas on the inner wings. Most of the spot welds are beginning to show rust and lots of the area around the strut tops. Nothing serious (like it was at the back + petrol tank) but worth doing while I can get at it. Like the thread title - preventative maintenance 
.
I can recommend checking the petrol tank for anyone who lives in an area where they salt the roads in the winter - I was shocked at the state of it!
.I can recommend checking the petrol tank for anyone who lives in an area where they salt the roads in the winter - I was shocked at the state of it!
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 44
Likes: 21
From: UK
S 350 Petrol
Update - might be useful to original poster and others: My car has done 92k miles. Last summer I replaced the rear air struts (torn gaiters) and it made a huge difference to the ride of the car. Replacing the fronts this weekend has made an even bigger difference! The first thing I noticed is that there is now less body roll - this has been the feature of the car I've liked least - there is still body roll, of course, but it is controlled so much better now - the car doesn't "fall" into corners any more - corners a little flatter (not ABC flat!). As a consequence the steering has become more precise. The damping is much better, of course. I replaced the pump and filter, valve block and relay as well. The dampers are Mercedes exchange units.
If anyone is in doubt about replacing their Airmatic struts/dampers I can thoroughly recommend it.
If anyone is in doubt about replacing their Airmatic struts/dampers I can thoroughly recommend it.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 45
S550
Thanks to all for the help and information. I have several other questions on service I might perform while I have it torn apart.
!. Should the wheel bearings be replaced also?
2. Would it be a good idea to replace the rotors and brake pads?
3. Is there any other maintenance I should do while I have it apart?
4 Should I start with the front or back?
Since I'm not having any current problems I will most likely wait until the weather warms a bit - April or May.
!. Should the wheel bearings be replaced also?
2. Would it be a good idea to replace the rotors and brake pads?
3. Is there any other maintenance I should do while I have it apart?
4 Should I start with the front or back?
Since I'm not having any current problems I will most likely wait until the weather warms a bit - April or May.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 305
Likes: 114
2007 S550
Thanks to all for the help and information. I have several other questions on service I might perform while I have it torn apart.
!. Should the wheel bearings be replaced also?
2. Would it be a good idea to replace the rotors and brake pads?
3. Is there any other maintenance I should do while I have it apart?
4 Should I start with the front or back?
Since I'm not having any current problems I will most likely wait until the weather warms a bit - April or May.
!. Should the wheel bearings be replaced also?
2. Would it be a good idea to replace the rotors and brake pads?
3. Is there any other maintenance I should do while I have it apart?
4 Should I start with the front or back?
Since I'm not having any current problems I will most likely wait until the weather warms a bit - April or May.
You don't need rotors unless your brake pads are worn away. Sometimes replacing them are less expensive than turning them. You can also replace the rotors if you have warped or cracked them. In that case, you will probably replace the pads as well.
Not too many maintenance items under there except inspecting the rubber. Look for cracked, broken or missing bushings at the ends of your control arms. Also, check for loose ball joints.
Front and back are of equal difficulty. Just different processes to dismantle.
Take a look at your service intervals. It's a good opportunity to handle any recent ones that may have been overlooked.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 44
Likes: 21
From: UK
S 350 Petrol
Remove the soundproofing under the floors (on the underside of the car) and check for rust on the bodywork - mine had some serious corrosion in several places. Also the brackets on the petrol tank that support the rear of the soundproofing had rotted off, leaving pinholes in the tank itself. The feed pipe to the tank was also rotting in places, as was the breather where the rubber section is connected.
The brake pipes are painted steel and begin to rust - (they are painted and then bent - the paint cracks at the bends and allows the pipes to rust) they are above the rear subframe and around the side of the petrol tank - again check for rust.
The aluminium heat-shields are held on with mild steel fasteners and again corrode around the fasteners - I replaced the ridiculously expensive Mercedes fasteners with large o/d BMW ones with large stainless steel washers on the inside to support the heat-shields where they had turned to dust.
The diff oil is never scheduled to be changed - unless it has already been done you could change it while you're under there (likewise the power steering fluid if it's not been done, but nothing to do with the suspension!!)
The brake pipes are painted steel and begin to rust - (they are painted and then bent - the paint cracks at the bends and allows the pipes to rust) they are above the rear subframe and around the side of the petrol tank - again check for rust.
The aluminium heat-shields are held on with mild steel fasteners and again corrode around the fasteners - I replaced the ridiculously expensive Mercedes fasteners with large o/d BMW ones with large stainless steel washers on the inside to support the heat-shields where they had turned to dust.
The diff oil is never scheduled to be changed - unless it has already been done you could change it while you're under there (likewise the power steering fluid if it's not been done, but nothing to do with the suspension!!)
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 45
S550
Thanks for the information. Brake pads and disks were replaced at 60k miles and although they aren't down to the wear sensors I suspect they will be due soon - 80k miles on them. Last service inspection mentioned the pads were getting thin and should be replaced next change.I'll check the other areas you've mentioned.Only other issue is that the rear headrests won't pop up.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,142
Likes: 1,294
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 305
Likes: 114
2007 S550
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
2007 s550
I been told that the brake pads and brake rotors are sets replaced together. That the rotors do not have enough allowance for refacing. There is a minimum rotor thickness. I also read factory info confirming this. So were those information not right?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 305
Likes: 114
2007 S550
You can turn them. You have about 2mm between nominal thickness and discard thickness. If the rotors are relatively new and you're replacing pads, it's worth measuring. If you need to pay shop rate to turn rotors, it's going to be cheaper to buy new rotors anyway.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 804
Likes: 74
From: Staten Island, NY
2010 MB S550, 2017 MB SLC 300
Thanks for all of the information! I've checked the prices and installation and I believe I can do it myself.
I'm confused about the choice of compressors - FCP lists 4 options ranging in price from $299 to $419. Rock Auto lists 5 ranging in price from $277 to $375. Any recommendations on which one to choose?
I'm confused about the choice of compressors - FCP lists 4 options ranging in price from $299 to $419. Rock Auto lists 5 ranging in price from $277 to $375. Any recommendations on which one to choose?
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 804
Likes: 74
From: Staten Island, NY
2010 MB S550, 2017 MB SLC 300
As long as they aren't metal on metal you could probably get away with it. The issue I see is that the rotors will warp over time and you will have to replace them anyway. A visual inspection will tell you what you need to know.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 45
S550
more rotor advice
