07 W221 V12. Get ABS/EPS warning. Removed errors with Youcanic. It comes back occasionally. Visual inspection of ABS sensors, plus rear and front axle rpm. After clearing, can have some time without warning but it comes back. Last couple of days noticed 2-3 times when slowing down at about 20km/h that ABS suddenly activates by a light braking for a fraction of a second and then the ABS warning pops up. At that stage the engine does not pick up the gas pedal. Until I press it sharp to the end and let it go. Then the engine picks it up. If I stop and want to accelerate, it takes several hits on the pedal to start moving. This does not happen during the first 15-20 minutes driving. I was driving with diagnostics connected live and could not see any issue with ABS sensors. Was suspecting a dirty throttle body issue. Not sure if it is but diagnostic shows from 3-80% opening angle. But the opening has a log when compared with the engine rpm. Not sure if that is normal. I changed the fuel filter. And gas pedal with accelerator sensor. Still the problem persists. In addition the car is regularly hesitant at various speeds. Sometimes it picks up the gas instantly, sometimes takes a second or two to accelerate, like it is first shifting in a lower speed and then picks it up. But I do not think it is shifting down. I read it may be a MAF sensor issue (dirty) or dirty throttle. Or ABS sensors are defect. But sensors mostly do ok. But the diagnosis says repeatedly abs sensors to be examined. I googled a lot. Found an identical issue with almost all errors like this mechanic on youtube.
https://youtu.be/BFKKNtvHBes
But he did not report acceleration issues. I went today to MB dealer and the appointment can be done only in 3 months and the diagnosis will cost 650 euro (Holland). Need to go on holidays and need reliable car. Please advice.
PS several people report the shifting inability or problems. I could get to all gears. But with no or hesitant acceleration.
I think I would replace the wheel sensors if that is what diagnostics keep telling you. They are not particularly expensive and are a known weakness on W221. Then, after clearing all the codes; drive it. If you continue to get the acceleration hesitation, I would take a hard look at that throttle body and its motor. Keep us posted. You should be able to do these things without the dealer but keep that appointment just in case. You can always cancel out if these suggested fixes work out for you.
And if all that I say proves correct, you can save the 650 Euro diagnostic fee and buy me a Heineken! Hope all works out.
That is what I was hoping to hear. Abs sensors are fixable at short notice. The throttle is bit bigger issue. I think my car has two throttles. One has actuator. I think they are not so easy to access and clean or remove and clean. I am not sure where exactly they are.
🍺 is no problem, but Grolsch is better. 😊
Ues, will report on all developments on this.
On your second pix, look directly under the V12 insignia and you will see part of the Y Air Pipe connecting to a square component. I would do the ABS wheel sensors first. Your throttle body issues may clear.
before jumping in and just throwing a common fault out there, it helps to search (it works well on this forum) - that way you have more insight what to type and can add value rather than just a vague question... my post the other day is likely a similar issue you have
the reason I just went with a fresh post is the ABS module giving up was rare on the 221 but had a few in last few years, so it sounds like its an age related bit of fun coming to us all - and due to my experience on ABS gremlins of this very nature on cars and bikes from other manu I wanted to start with the main issue out there not just people crying
I have never heard a wheel sensor cause a throttle incident (park park brake oddities - yes), but the other nastier ABS fault may well have a throttle related issue - as the ABS unit does have logic for traction control and that would talk to the way we think the throttle pedal works (it all really computer driven garbage these days)
never pay a dealer anything for diagnostics - german cars are so unreliable (intentionally) that half the world now have hooky versions of the same dealer diagnostic kit and likely more experience telling you what it all means - an autel €200 scanner will tell you all you need to know and work on many other old cars... but the one I'm thinking of won't do anything past 2012 but have lots of stuff for the money (does more than a €4000 snap on one can - from pure fault code perspective and two naughty resets snap on will never support)
wheel sensors from the dealer are actually serious money €150 each - fakes for €40 each corner I gather work just as well - do both rears as they will fail anyway and see where you are - but I suspect it the pump module is doing what they do - with the motor brushes sticking - will be loads of places that should turn yours round in 5 days around 350 euros - and thus no need to play with software or diagnostics - and its very easy to reach - its about the only bit of the car that is (just behind a headlamp) - hit it with a sharp stick (not joking!!) plenty of people do this on BMWs and it works for 6 months - and these units are mostly all made by the same crooks...
check it out its free https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...sh-speedo.html still haven't bothered driving it since this - more concerned about the bag of bolts in my "good 30k german bike" that has another recall for the recall on the gearbox - turns out the new parts, are worse than the old parts, which were originally made of chocolate and it makes you die locking 5th and 6th - buy japanese !!!
well there we go - the other thread got me off my ****. HEAP OF JUNK - my drive is not flat so popping of that wheel will be dangerous.....
car been asleep for more than a week no faults - drove off the drive and within 20 yards beeps - ABS / ESP error - plugged it back in - decided I must be right - hit ABS valve block with a hammer, re-scanned all seemed good, comms to ABS module OK, all bits and bobs reading OK, wheel speed sensors all looking sensible, but stationary right rear wandered back and forth between zero and one other three all stable at zero. Release park and park brake rolled forwards a foot all jump up to 40 and drop back to 0 but that rear still has a wandering eye
Double checked all clear, drove up the road with diagnostics attached fault came straight back - but now power steering stuck really heavy - push through to wheel speed readings, left rear zero others moving with road speed
so left side ABS sensor not getting a reliable reading but oddly left front would go intermittent - not sure of out in sympathy or both reluctor rings rusty and sad
mate with a 330 coupe said his speedo to wasn't happy - I said check wheel speed sensors - turned out the entire reluctor ring had just rusted to death - nothing left - you can buy them but somehow need to pop off the CV joint and no one wants to fit it
anyone know what they look like on the 221 ? on many other mercs its part of the wheel bearing shield and they just disintegrate
bit of random thinking - fault now is NOT faults I had with wheel speed sensors
at the moment I'm getting no reading (on one wheel) - so the car throws teddies straight away
when it was the sensor wires broken on right rear, sometimes the park brake would self release, I'd get bings and bongs randomly, and the error was random in nature sometimes weeks between progressively getting more often over 6 months. So that's intermittent readings
Not the no reading I'm getting now. It also explains the gearbox and the throttle are now going mad. When its a sensor deteriorating the car has No Idea its not random wheel spin or a slippery surface - but No data is just wrong
started working on the throttle. Need advice how to get out the Y piece in order to access to throttle. It is hard plastic. Not sure whether one of the metal parts left or right has to be released first or can it be done without doing it. I released o rings. But it has no space for maneuver. tried also to rotate it vertically but no success.
if all three clamps are loose, get some silicone spray on the back 2 in the pic - will it rotate upwards and get you clearance ?
otherwise at least one of the "intercoolers" (guessing no idea what they are) will need to move
check that water level somewhere - on a V12 its usually an empty boost cooler bottle under the engine cover - and it throws errors and drops shed loads of performance as its always empty...
started working on the throttle. Need advice how to get out the Y piece in order to access to throttle. It is hard plastic. Not sure whether one of the metal parts left or right has to be released first or can it be done without doing it. I released o rings. But it has no space for maneuver. tried also to rotate it vertically but no success.
Did you replace the wheel speed sensor(s)?
I tell you my experience with my 2013 S550: One day all of a suddenly I get the whole cluster lit up. ABS, ESP, CEL and the steering got very hard to turn.
Connected my iCarsoft II and it had in 4-5 modules an error for the left front wheel speed sensor. It is odd that the CEL also lit up with the same wheel speed sensor error code in the ECM. I replaced the sensor ($135 + tax), cleared all errors in all modules I could find it and the car was fixed.
It appears wheel speed information is used in all sort of modules, like the engine control module but this is, of course, a must as the ESP controls engine speed based on wheel slip.
I see you started working with the carburetor / air intake. I don't see how a dirty air intake could cause ABS/ESP problems but faulty wheel speed sensor can cause engine issues.
If your scanner doesn't tell which wheel speed sensor it is buy one for front and change one out. If no help put the old one back in and try the new one on the other side.
If the above doesn't help do the same for the rear.
In my opinion you are wasting time working on the air intake for the engine, but that is just me.
You may be very right Arrie. I purchased all 4 abs sensors and rings. Scheduled next week Friday in a garage of a friend. Will do that first. And check/clean throttle anyway because the car is 16 year old and was standing still for a year for sure on a way to Japan and finally at auction and temporarily storage before it passed the tough Dutch import check (that is story for itself). Will keep you informed.
as I tried to say on the thread I'd started recently about ABS...
the fault and cure Arrie just posted about is the exact fault and cure I just had - and stems from a 100% dead wheel speed sensor
the beginning to fail slowly wheel speed sensor fault I had many years earlier, is a far less dramatic event - with very different symptoms - can run over 6 months to a year - and for me starts with random distronic plus bings and bongs turning up when you first drive off in the car - and then you begin to realise more and more often you discover the park brake is off when you know you put it on, and or fails to auto release - but I never use the auto feature
Thanks to this info I purchased all 4 rings and will replace them, although it is quite some extra work, but likely necessary. Can’t wait next Friday. Have this car for a year and still wait for a trouble-free drive.
Hi all. Finally I went to a local mechanic and changed all 4 ABS sensors. We did not have time to replace the “O” rings but we cleaned the space around it with pressurized air. It was not a big trouble to do it. About 20 minutes per wheel. Then we opened and cleaned the throttle. We could access it using the sylicone spray to remove the Y piece. The throitle had about 3 mm black deposit around the flap and also deposit on the body. We could clean it about 90 % because he was bit in rush. To put the Y piece back e still needed to remove both air filters and both intercoolers. Was faster to do it then to force the Y thing and possibly break it as it is after 17 years quite brittle. Anyway I think I will do the cleaning again and alone wothout rushing with it. Anyway happy that we have done it because here in Holland finding and making appointment with a good nechanic is a lottery. Waiting times are 2-3 months.
So, I diagnosed it. All storred errors popped up again as well as ABS/EPS warning. Took it for a short ride. Did reading again. The same errors. Erased errors and repeated reading. This time no errors! Took it for a ride for 30 km. No issues. No errors. No warnings. No limp mode, no hesitation. Rpm idle quiet and steady.
Maybe too early to jump from happiness but so far so good. In a week will take her for a longer ride and will let you know how it went.
Great news on the sensors and I hope the codes remain resolved. I regularly use a plastic 20 ounce bottle of Techron to keep my V12 throttle body clean. I use it every other month on the first day of the month. Do you have access to Techron in Holland?
Great news on the sensors and I hope the codes remain resolved. I regularly use a plastic 20 ounce bottle of Techron to keep my V12 throttle body clean. I use it every other month on the first day of the month. Do you have access to Techron in Holland?
Thanks. It seems we do not have it in Holland. Is this the correct product?
if it goes in the tank then its not going on the throttle body ever - the injectors on old petrol car's squirt on the back of the inlet valves - latest designed to break rubbish does direct injection straight in the combustion chamber
the black filth around throttle butterflies and onwards is dust, asbestos, brake pad / disc material, tyre compound, road salts and such debris the air cleaner lets by (shed loads on all cars) and then a lot of nasty filth like acids, ruined engine oil and combustion gases from the engine breather system
so long as there is nothing stupid inside the inlet manifolds ridiculous design (that will moan about methanol - I think there is - cheap nasty plastic flap that will fail anyway), and you keep well away from wipers and screen seals - a sneaky 50- 50 water meth atomised spray after the air cleaner will clean things up nicely for not much money (make sure the CATS and engine are hot and it will want to stall on you, so be ready to cut the spray as it bogs for a few seconds - must be atomised !!!! and go gently if you have turbos - 1 litre in 15 mins is enough holding revs about 2 to 3k
you make it yourself - methanol is wood derived alcohol - don't drink it - it will kill you - water comes out a tap - garden sprayer you pump up works a treat - it was used way back when to reduce engine knock for those that like to play
oddly never got any codes doing this on my 221, on my fathers 211 tractor on indeed on my R1200GS bike - but if you do lots it will run a little bit lively / erratic - on UK forum many suggest water on its own will have much the same effect - as the water get hot it pops and vapour blasts the filth off
