If I were to change my current alternator and add a high output one would I need to program it to the car for the high output or can I just put it on and be ok?

 

The 180 and the 220 are interchangeable. Were you going to go higher than 220?

 

Hey yea I was planning on going higher than 220 bc I’m starting to get into car audio and most people are saying I have to upgrade all my electrical equipment especially the alternator

 

Be careful with high amp alternators. The OE units and OE style units are pretty reliable. They get less reliable once you start replacing internal components with higher output ones. Whichever alternator you use, make sure the manufacturer or rebuilder has a good reputation. Definitely not the place for an eBay special. Alternator replacement is way too hard of a job to need to do frequently due to cheap parts.

Since you're concerned about power, I assume you're talking about amps and subwoofers. How were you planning on running these? The standard bass box in the trunk isn't going to work. You have a wall of electronics between the trunk and passenger compartment.

 

So far I have everything inside the trunk for over a year but I wanna go bigger, so far I got a 12” sub 2000watts rms hooked up to a 2300 watts amp and i installed a second battery in the trunk and it’s doing good so far but i need more power bc I wanna go bigger. A friend told me about a company called
mechman he said they make good stuff but I don’t wanna install a high output alternator and then I burn everything up bc I didn’t program it or something.

 

OP before you reach for a bigger alternator verify what you have for voltage across the battery as it runs. You want to see 14 volts with a reasonable load on it. The best audio is fed by a dedicated battery sized right for the application. The OEM 220 amp alternator is likely enough. Aftermarket alternators too often add electrical noise to audio.

 

I will, but I also know that from the dashboard if u click and hold the ok and answer phone button with the dash being in the trip odometer reset I believe u call it, if u hold both for like 5sec it’ll take u to the vehicle data and from there I saw it shows the voltage on there and while running, it shows a constant 14volts but I still wanna know what amp alternator I got so that’s first thing. either 180amp or 220amp alternator if it’s the 180 then I can go 220 but if not then I gotta go night then 220


Currently have this in my trunk

 

@Kevinram123 I feel your pain as I have been putting "boom" in various benz models since the 90s. I've owned various chassis from w123, w126, w201, w220, x164, w221.....Now, as for the wall in the trunk, you can be very loud in the most basic box...even sealed. I ride sealed because Im an SQ guy. My current bass machine is a w221 s550. My older bro has your model 4matic s550 and my younger bro has a GL450 and ML350. Remove the sub in the rear deck .....let the trunk breath. As for the wall, open the ski pass/storage/fridge/rear armrest compartment up to vent into the cabin....let the trunk breath. I've done an infinite baffle, 1 stereo integrity 18" that did 145db...facing the trunk with the ski pass cut open. I've fired 2 x 12" subs at that same ski pass in the armrest. The box had a 'V' shape. It was really a 6th order porting into the rear armrest....LOUD...PRESSURE. I've unplugged the rear in deck sub and put one sealed 12" in the trunk. That was my SQ build....clean. The cool thing is that if the in car rear deck sub is unpluged, it will act like a passive radiator and amplify the trunk subwoofers notes. My designo w221 came with 2 and a half batteries...starter(hood), consumer(trunk wall), and auxiliary(dash). Get the 220amp alternator but you have a great car and stock alternator for a sound system. If you want to run 1k watt rms subs and have more than one sub.....man....powerba$tards.com(250A, quality since pandemic ???) OR qualitypowerauto.com(you have to call...think I've gotten a 300A in the past). The S-class doesnt have a lot of HO alternator options without having it built. I'd stay within the 220A OEM, add another battery, and you wont dim under 2500watts. Oh, another build is having a fiberglass in both rear corners of the trunk(2 x 10" subs) or take out the spare tire and go crazy. The fiberglass in corners and the Infinite Baffle 18" saved the most trunk space. I'm riding Rockford Fosgate all around....brothers are pusing JL Audio and Kickers. Get a 0ga amp kit with TINNED OXYGEN FREE COPPER! Your run should be short. Try to stay or keep the subs and sub amp within the wattage range of a 4ga amp kit, but install a 0ga kit. I've seen similar builds online that gave me these ideas. If I can find some of them, I'll drop them in here for you. Remember, you have to get that sound from your trunk into the cabin of the car....which will then go out the windows and sunroof....then you'll hear it, feel it, and be heard coming a block away. Trust me on this.

 

just run a capacitor man