S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

System malfunction/airmatic/ leaning to the left

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Old 11-29-2023, 02:04 PM
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2010 s550
System malfunction/airmatic/ leaning to the left

Hi guys, I'm new to the family and, I'm excited to see what I can learn from you all. Any and all advice on my issue would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2010 S550 with 80k miles on it. I bought it used and knew there would be a few problems here and there. The other day i was driving it and at a red light i tried to raise the airmatic suspension a bit. As i drove on i heard my compressor cycling very frequently. Then I saw a system malfunction light on the dash and it stopped. I noticed when i came out in the morning the front left wheel well was almost laying on my tire. I have a feeling that is a rupture in the strut and I plan on replacing it myself.
I came outside this morning and the gap on both right side wheel wells is huge but on the left side it's minimal. The whole car leans to the left even after the compressor cycles several times and even after driving it aggressively in a round about, it still is leaning really badly. I also noticed that my compressor sounds really weak like it is bad. I have a few questions
1. do I likely have a bad driver's side front strut? Can I shoot air into it directly with a compressor and a blow gun to isolate and inspect it with soapy water?
2. Does it sound lIke i have a bad compressor and would that cause the left side to under inflate?
3. Will I need to have a recalibration done to my airmatic system?
4. Does anyone have any suggestions of things that I can check and or do to.fix the lean?
I Have an aftermarket warranty. I know it wont cover shocks but will likely cover the compressor. Probably not the recalibration though. Thanks in advance for all advice. I'd like to save some money for Christmas lol
Old 11-29-2023, 03:16 PM
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It could be a strut failure, it can be a valve block issue...so it can be anything. Try to find someone with an SDS that can scan the car and tell you exactly what it is. That way you do not throw parts at it. And no unless you change the ride sensor, you shouldn't need a recalibration. Where are you located?
Old 11-29-2023, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by doni01
It could be a strut failure, it can be a valve block issue...so it can be anything. Try to find someone with an SDS that can scan the car and tell you exactly what it is. That way you do not throw parts at it. And no unless you change the ride sensor, you shouldn't need a recalibration. Where are you located?
I live in Cincinnati ohio
Old 11-29-2023, 03:43 PM
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Since you heard the compressor, it's likely that it's a bad valve block or a leaky reservoir. You're going to need a diagnostic scan to test each individual component. That is the cheapest way to do it. They expensive way is to start throwing parts at it.
Old 11-29-2023, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CinciS550
I live in Cincinnati ohio
Too far from me...I am in CT. I would have scanned it for you. Try to find someone local that has one.
Old 11-29-2023, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by doni01
Too far from me...I am in CT. I would have scanned it for you. Try to find someone local that has one.
so you think it could be a bad block or resivoir even though it only affects one side and not the system as a whole?
Old 11-29-2023, 05:36 PM
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the first starting point for any airtragic suspension oddity - is to see if the three level sensors are sitting correctly and the link arms can easily wobble on their ball sockets - they sit at the top of each front wheel and one nasty to see and reach one near the diff on the left hand side above the park brake actuator

these seize solid misread, and will snap off in the end beeching the car - they are cheap budget ($40 dollar) parts that die any time around 5 to 8 year intervals

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Old 11-29-2023, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
the first starting point for any airtragic suspension oddity - is to see if the three level sensors are sitting correctly and the link arms can easily wobble on their ball sockets - they sit at the top of each front wheel and one nasty to see and reach one near the diff on the left hand side above the park brake actuator

these seize solid misread, and will snap off in the end beeching the car - they are cheap budget ($40 dollar) parts that die any time around 5 to 8 year intervals
can you post a pic of one of them by any chance?
Old 11-30-2023, 05:42 AM
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front A 22 132 024 89 part 10

rear A 22 132 025 89

UK site
front https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125714842498?
rear https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111385921315?

if you are asking about them note:
1) nothing holds the car up other than air - you could lose a limb, or die
2) the front's are easy, BUT use a jack or ramp to support the car when playing with joke suspension
3) you won't be able to fit the rear, and won't know anyone else that will do it well in the 30mins its takes (and MIGHT charge you $1200 to half break it)

Last edited by BOTUS; 12-02-2023 at 03:47 AM.
Old 12-01-2023, 08:21 PM
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I found the issue guys. It was a bad strut. Got a new one from autozone for $650 and had it installed in about an hour. Thanks for all of your input. P.s- I'm gonna convert my suspension to coil overs in the next year

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