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Replaced my motor mounts. Did the transmission mount a couple weeks ago, that was no help to the bad engine sound inside the car. It was the totally collapsed motor mounts.
By my big surprise I could not find any instructions in the net anywhere for this job. Only thing was someone showing to drop the engine down for it. I could not believe Mercedes would build it that way for them to require engine drop for the job so I went to “learn” the job.
After driving the car on a self made ramp and taking the sway bar bushings loose the passenger side mount was very easy job after jacking engine up by a couple inches but the driver side is a whole other story.
You can access the top bolt of the mount fine, but to take the mount out is the problem as the steering rack is in the way for removing the mount the same route as on passenger side.
Tried to find a way to take the rack loose but there is a bolt on driver side with a nut on top that I could not access.
So, the only way I could get the old mount out and the new one in was just to jack the engine up enough. Took the trans mount also loose for this. The opening between engine oil pan and sub frame opens enough for this and I could not find any damage to hoses or wires from doing this.
It looks awful when the engine is up like four inches but this is how I did it so the mount change can be done without dropping the engine, at least in my car it can.
I saw we this one. Dropping the sub frame (like dropping the engine and then lifting engine up from the sub frame). I did not do any of this huge work. Just took the sway bar brackets off and jacked the engine up by 4-5 inches.
I saw we this one. Dropping the sub frame (like dropping the engine and then lifting engine up from the sub frame). I did not do any of this huge work. Just took the sway bar brackets off and jacked the engine up by 4-5 inches.
Mine is RWD.
Front axles on a 4 matic probably won't let you do this? Not sure. Guess you could just remove the front axles and try your approach.....
Seems on RWD they want you fiddling with the AC evacuating it, remove steering coupler, and remove the front axle carrier. Same with 4matic and removing the axle carrier.
Curious how you jacked the engine up, im picturing using a floor jack to do it?
Seems on RWD they want you fiddling with the AC evacuating it, remove steering coupler, and remove the front axle carrier. Same with 4matic and removing the axle carrier.
Curious how you jacked the engine up, im picturing using a floor jack to do it?
Floor jack with 4x4 across the oil pan.
I jacked it up first without taking the trans mount loose and did not get enough room for getting the mount out but then took the three small trans mount bolts loose and jacked it up as far as I could and the room was enough between the oil pan and sub frame to swap the mounts.
You are certain there was no damage to hoses or harness? No clearance issues raising the engine that high? Nothing ripped, torn or bent on the way up?
Congrats. I plan on doing mine soon. I'll just jack 'er up!
I suppose, learning from your experience, I will not bother installing the left side first, then attempting the right side. I will just loosen both sides, raise the engine, and replace both simultaneously. This sound right?
You are certain there was no damage to hoses or harness? No clearance issues raising the engine that high? Nothing ripped, torn or bent on the way up?
Congrats. I plan on doing mine soon. I'll just jack 'er up!
I suppose, learning from your experience, I will not bother installing the left side first, then attempting the right side. I will just loosen both sides, raise the engine, and replace both simultaneously. This sound right?
When I changed the right side first I left the bottom bolt out until I got the left side changed. The engine would not raise high enough if the right side mount was bolted tight.
I did not see any damage that I could find. The only thing was the two plastic intake ducts came loose from the air box. No damage, just set them back in place.
The rubber seal on top of the fire wall also was knocked out of place that I just pushed in place again.
This job was one of the most rewarding as now I cannot hear the engine inside the car. I always wondered why my S-class is noisier than my two years older E-class. It was always the motor mounts that were totally shot and I just had to have them replaced either by a shop or DIY.
Seems the extent of the work is based on which engine and RWD vs 4matic.
I was browsing thru the 2010 S550 manuals and on the RWD M273 they say just raise the engine and the mounts will come out. Plus detach steering for Left mount.
Seems the extent of the work is based on which engine and RWD vs 4matic.
I was browsing thru the 2010 S550 manuals and on the RWD M273 they say just raise the engine and the mounts will come out. Plus detach steering for Left mount.
For M273 there are plenty instructions for the mounts. The biggest issue with those is to get to remove the top bolt that screws vertically in the mount. You need to get special wrench for it.
With M278 the bolt is horizontal and access to it is very easy from the bottom. The ONLY issue is that the engine needs to be jacked up so much to be able to remove the driver side mount. Passenger side is so easy.
I'm not the one that designed this car, but I would not be surprised if MB dealer service does just what I did and not go thru the troubles of dropping be sub frame...
I'll have to replace mine soon too, so I was wondering if there's any striking difference between these and the 2008 model?
I think the models before 2012 with the m273 engine are easier for taking the mounts out. Engine still needs ti be jacked up but the problem is with the mount top bolt that is not easy access and requires special wrench. There are instructions for this in the net.
Drove the car over 1000 miles since the mount replacement. Have not seen any problems at all so jacking the engine up a lot seems not have cost any issues at all.
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