Got a W213 (UK model) and had them gel packs fitted about 18 months ago. Six months later told them problem of condensation returning and they said thats normal and all is fine. 10 months outside the warranty period...drivers side headlight wont come on with the ILS inoperative. Cost to just look at it £250 as they need to remove bumper!!!!!

I am certain its the control unit that's knackered due to water ingress - its had a diagnostic and they say cant see anything on there? Wouldn't diagnostic show that headlight control unit is knackered??

Mines the Multibean one so its not cheap!!!!

 

Solving the problem with condensation in this way for me is considered as not effective due following reasons:
-Workspan of silicagel is limited. There is necessity for multiple changes at random basis by time and by left/right housing if saturation of the packs is only factor.
-No way (or difficult) for inspection and actual checking the condition of silica packs.
- Approach to reduce the humidity inside housing of headlight, rather than to avoid or/and reduce its penetration inside is questionable. Usually condensetion starts on parts with lower temp. Visually that are lower parts of the lens, but metal parts(electronic modules) most probably are affected by moisture even before lens.
On other way personally for me the decision of MB to use silicagel packs looks like just gaining the time until end of warranty and making the owners accountable for obviously their fault.
​​​​​​

 

Hi All

Just writing out loud but would it not be possible to fit some sort of 12v low heat heater inside the units, I am thinking about the type of heater that the put in tropical fish tanks. Maybe drill a small hole to fit it and then reseal. Or something like this suck to the side not sure how much heat it would give out but if too much am sure it could be adjusted.
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...94325000&ver=0

Ps

If this is a go and someone makes something as I suggest, don't forget to credit me and my royalties

 

There seem to be a fix on another site hope it's ok to post a link to it on hear if not please remove

https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/...up-buy.258096/

 

What about Purging with Nitrogen, then sealing the unit totally. Purging with Nitrogen will remove all moisture. Having a sealed unit no matter how hot it gets ( I'm not a scientist) with Nitrogen inside, means no moisture and nothing to expand substantially to cause any issues. The vent is not there for heat, its there for the expansion of water vapor. There is no way to keep out water vapor with any simple membrane. Just a thought. You system is great except the volume of air has moisture content in it. How much is open for discussion. Nitrogen is used in tires and HVAC systems to purge out moisture and oxygen etc.

 

How hot would it get in the seal housing with the lights on?

 

Hi, the idea to fill the housing with Nitrogen is reasonable, but there are following theoretical and practical considerations:
-The phisical law of Gay-Lussac for the temperature expansion is valid for all gases. On other hand the air mixture in atmosphere is abt 78 % Nitrogen(N), so the difference in temperature expansion between pure N and surounding air will be negligent. Thus no matter what will be inside the housing of headlight, the expansion practically will be the same. On other hand, the purity of N, used for pumping the tyres let say is abt 95%.
-The sealing of headlight is difficult to be done-there are multiple fittings-control modules, cable glands, horizontal and vertical adjustment screws posing real option for gas leakage.
As all above looks distant and probable let say that the headlight housing is sealed to the best possible way and filled with N. After the led module is swithed On the temp will rise, other factors affecting the temp will be ambient temp(sunny day or parking under the direct sunshine). What will be actual rise of temp will be very complex due to multiple factors. What will happen actually-depends on temp expansion,soon or later the N will leak from somewhere, and when the headlight is cooled the outside air will be sucked inside.By my opinion after filing with N the condensetion initially will be not observed(how long is the question), but then will return back very persistantly due to "sealed" unit.
Also there is other consideration that if sealing is done properly, the unit could crack after very short period.For this reason I used the compensatory volume, already explained in my previous post 37,39-it worked very well, but I am trying now filter elements(#42) , which is easier solution. Also the problem with compensatory volume(urine bag) is that- it is very easy to be punctured from sharp objects, driven by the air flows existing in area under the headlight assembly.
Just to say that idea of filter elements is to reduce the water ingress to the way to "live" with it, it is not possible to prevent ingress completely.
Based on results of both solutions-compensatory volume or filter elements I will pick up one and I will instal them in best way, even with some service help, because there is a necessity to remove at least underfender covers.

 

​​​​​​Hi, in pdf file Headlights condensation
You could see at page 5(17) temp graphics inside/outside the headlight. The sample is for headlight with HID lamp(xenon), which generates more heat than LED.
BTW at page 28(39) there is explanation using velocity approach. It is visible, that condensation at MB headlights are also located at lower "lee" sectors. Mounting very small fan(used in comps) inside headlight is relatively easy to be power supplied and accommodated,but is still complicated for doing at home. The purpose of the fan is just to make air flows and to utilize internal heat from led modules, creating no "lee" sectors. In my opinion, this could be done from MB, rather than to insert the silicagel packs with limited workspan.
Inside the headlight, there is a cooling fan, but it is for DRL module,and obviously does not create enough air flow.

Cooling fan DRL.

 

As an engineer I feel like I am in the middle of a root cause and corrective action analysis. Outstanding work GKH! BTW they spelling modeling wrong.

 

Hi Gentlemen!
Obviously I have the same problem as others w222 ,dec 2015. I'm about to remove the front bumper to be able to remove the headlight, the question is, assuming main battery is only disconnected if I will remove headlamp and after all magic work will be done reconnect the headlamp plug would there be code error on completion of reinstallation ?

Any one done him self this kind of work ?
Running away sealant surely doesn't help


Poor quality of German Mercedes S-class , that is the fact. We have to deal with it as owners a this is a more of poorrr.... this time poor service
Going to the point, I have noted that for very long time the high temperature is held under the bonnet, obviously the headlamp is warming up internally by convection and with outside temperature leading to creating a dew point on the headlight glass.
Last time the weather was perfect with average humidity and sunny day after short run I left the car outside of garage. Result one of the headlamp got fogged inside.Will do quick experiment by isolating the housing from high temperature under the bonnet, I should share my observation after the test.


zender

 

An update on mine... Had to get my drivers side headlight replaced.Got 50% contribution so around £900 including the diagnostic.

Anyway yesterday it was humid weather (no rain) and my left side headlight started to steam up inside, and thought there goes another £1k. However I checked the back of the light this time and to my surprise found the so call 'gel/desiccant pack fix'. Its a cap the size of a petrol cap filled with these gel packs! Anyway took the cover off and left it off for about 15 minutes while driving, and all the condensation gone! I took some pics which are attached, however my question is what gel/dessicant packs should I buy to replace these ones as they look gonners Don't mind changing the pack every few months as they would be cheap enough??

The new right headlight does not have this fix but not too bothered as that should be under two year warranty i think!


Screw/Unscrew cover on the right

Gel Packs inside held with a torx screw

Outside of the cover

 

So back on this topic yet again I'm afraid... original thread poster here, this time its make or break…. Seriously considering trading this car if I cant do the repair myself☹



3rd new headlight assembly installed just over 7 months ago is now showing moisture yet again in my 2017 W222,obviously the gel pack has failed yet again.



I’ve come to conclusion that I need to be able to make this repair myself as going back to the dealership every six months is not a viable option so Im going to have a go myself heres my plan:



• Remove the right side headlight assembly

• Remove both electronic control units and place the headlight assembly in a small closest room in my house with a dehumidifier for 24hrs.

• Install new gel packs, and reinstall the headlight assembly.



Before I attempt the above Id really appreciate any advice from anyone on here that has removed the headlight assembly from their sclass below are some concerns/questions I have:



• Looks like 3 bolts hold the headlight assembly in place, the top two are easy to access, the lower one appears to be accessible from underneath after remove the two underside covers. Do I need to remove or loosen the bumper fixings in order to slide out the headlight?



• If I were able to remove the window washer bottle I could access the control module on the rear of the headlight to reinstall the gelpack without removing the complete headlight? Has anyone tried this?

 

If its a new headlight then i doubt they would have done the 'fix' on it with the gel packs. I just checked my new headlight and the fix is not there...

 

New headlight was installed 7 months ago after 3 hour drive home moisture was present so went back the next day they installed the gel pack.

6 to 7 months is the moisture free time period I've been getting over the last 3 years from the gel packs.

decide now I got to attempt this repair myself I'm quite handy with cars but just a little nervous that's why I ve asked the questions in my previous reply, be nice to get advice from someone who has tried this already.

 

No one on here tried to remove a headlight yet?

 

Good Afternoon

I have taken the bumper out before I had removed the headlight from the car. I had assumed that is the only way, You can try remove the front grill and slack the top part of the bumper, but getting to the bottom bolt to the headlight will be a challenge. Once you get all (3X) the bolts off then I doubt there is enough space to pull headlight from the frame. However on this video it was possible
Any way, let us know. It looks like I will had to remove the headlights as well and fit new filters elements to let the air circulate. Last time I noticed only one - same in and out port with membrane looks like poor design .

In Lexus GS 3rd gen I had the similar problem but there was mechanical / factory failure with the front glass headlight which had min cracks. Those headlights had 3 vent hole with filters.

good luck

zender

 

Thanks for the reply, I started the job this evening but didnt have enough time to complete it and I want to order the new gel packs before I actually remove the headlamp.

I got all three screws out quickly enough and the grill, and as you correctly pointed out there wasnt enough room to lift the headlight out.

Tomorrow ill remove the bumper retaining screws on the driver side wheel arch and the bumper screw behind the grill im hoping i can slacken the bumper on the driver side only without removing it completely and lift the headlamp out.

 

Just coming back to give an update to anyone else attempting to remove their head lights.

It was quite easy in the end, heres a brief outline of the steps I took:

* Remove two bolts from the top of the headlight assembly.
* Disconnect 360 camera connections, remove grill, remove headlight & bumper bolts
* Remove two clips from inner liner of driver side wheel arch, pull liner back to access two torx and remove them.
* Remove two panels from the under side of the car.
* Remove bolt from underside of headlight assembly.
* Remove two screws holding front bumper

I have WIS instructions for the above if anyone wants them.

Now you can gently pull the bumper and lower it on the driver side, you dont need to remove it totally as you will have enough room to lift the headlight out.

On inspection I found the gel pack (7 months since it was installed) was totally soaked and there was water in the gelpack basket. It took me about an hr and a half to remove the light and reinstall it. I've now come to conclusion this is not something I can be doing every 6/7 months. So time to start thinking about a more permanent solution.

 

This appears just now on Mercedes Sindelfingen facebook page (home of sclass production), I dont know whether to laugh or cry

 

I've commented on this issue on their facebook page, link to it below anyone else facing or having faced this issue maybe you can add your comments to their facebook page.... maybe then Mercedes will take this issue seriously:

https://rb.gy/p40l4k

 

This may be of interest - zero condensation to date in my E-class. Perhaps it's worth a try.
Headlight Condensation

 

I am assuming that your fix has held to date. Given that it is elegant in its simplicity, ease of execution and low cost.

 

Thanks and you're correct, no further issues. In fact I've now pretty much forgotten about it which is a good sign since I'd notice a recurrence. Obviously there's no guarantee for a fix on any car but for my car I'm calling it good. To be honest I'm still surprised that such a low dollar solution has worked this well for me.

 

Can someone confirm that the My18 and up do not have this condensation problem and need for gel packs?

 

anyone interested in a class action lawsuit? I was quoted over $4K to repair / fix damage from moisture / gel packs. I have many photos of moisture before and after factory warantee....