Joshua

Hello, my newly bought 2019 November S560 is now 3+ years old.
I wanted to add some information that you may find interesting. I also would like insights and contributions that may assist me.

The issue.
In the last 6 months, I open the car using the key fob or door handle (with key in my pocket), get in, foot on the brake, press the starter button and the car does not start. To resolve this, what has worked is for me to get out of the car, at least 3 to 4 times. Close the car with the key fob, or using the door handle touch point, wait for about 3 to 5 minutes, open. the car with the key fob, press the starter and hope that it starts. It does, after 3 or 4 times doing this. Frustrating.

I took the car to my independent who put it up on the star diagnostic computer which indicated a software issue with the door signal acquisition module (SAM) that deals with the receiving and processing of the key fob open / close signal. The tech (a good friend of mine and he used to be the chief tech for the local Mercedes dealership) completed a software update. The car has been fine for about 3 months and has started intermittently playing up again.

Options.
1. Could it be the main battery or auxiliary battery playing up. The car is 3 years and 9 months old. It has done 42k kilometres (25, 149 miles). I complete just 8k to 10k kilometres a year. If YES, may I tap into your collective knowledge bank please. If it is the battery (which) I will have checked, which battery should I replace ? or Both ? Note: I have a CTEK trickle charge, and when I charge the battery over night, it indicates a fully charged battery (over an 8 hour period).

2. I also noticed the BlackVue DR900S 2 channel front and rear bash cam had also died. I just took it in to a tech who confirmed the BlackVue Magic Pro module (that supplies power to the cameras during parking, had died. A new one is being ordered.

Are these two related ?

Any thoughts and views are much appreciated.

Thanks all.

waterzap99

If no one has looked at the batteries, that would be a good place to start. 4 years is not very old, but you never know. Maybe have a look at them first. The main battery is easy to get to, and you can at least look at the terminals. Do they look good?
The aux battery is a bit more involved, but not bad.

If you really want to do something, buying new batteries wont be terrible. They might be going bad or could last another year or two. You got 4 years out of them. At least then you can check that off your list for the next 4 or 5 years when things go bad.
My wifes GLK had strange issues and fuses would blow. Replaced both batteries, no issues after that. I am not saying it is the batteries, but stranger things have happened.

Joshua

Thank you for taking the time to respond.
I have an update - I took the car last week to the DashCam Tech who installed my dash cam. The model is the BlackVue DR900 S 2 channel (front and rear). It tuns out that the Power Magic Pro (the optional battery pack that supplies power to the dash cams during parking, when the car is switched off, had a fault. In fact it was dead. He could not confirm however if this could have been parasitically draining the main starter battery. I am having this part replaced. If the electrical problems continue, intermittently, I shall ask him to rip out the entire dash cam system (I am not intending to replace it) and then monitor to see if I still have similar starting issues. This said, dash cam systems now have a completely new tech rechargeable batteries for parking mode that are lithium Ion and charged by the alternator. Example CellLink NEO.

As for your suggestion to replace the main battery anyway, thank you and I am looking into it.
Australia is a long way from anywhere and getting information like part numbers & OEM suppliers, other than a main dealer is proving to be quite a challenge.

For example, I phoned the dealership where I bought my car brand new, went through their parts process, got a quote for the replacement of both main and Auxillary Batteries - $ AUD 1700 including "labour". So I thought I would see if I could independently get the parts and install them myself. I have all the necessary tools (I do not have OBD scanners).

So far little progress to narrow down replacement batteries.
I wonder if our US forum members can help me.

What are the actual Mercedes OEM Battery Part numbers for my car. Details as follows.

W222, 2019 S560 VIN: WDD2220832A516145 Thank you in advance for your help.

So far, local research in Melbourne Australia seems to lead to the OEM Battery Manufacturers being VARTA or Johnson Controls.

An independent battery shop suggests the equivalent VARTA main Battery retails for $AUD 600 and AUX battery for $ AUD 320. This means a main dealer is charging $ AUD 800 for labour and I know it takes no more that 30 minutes. !!

Interesting note - When I asked the main dealer if my replacement battery labs will show the Mercedes Symbol label on it etc just like my original ones, they said it would be an "equivalent"....

Last question please - after replacing both batteries do they needed to be "coded" or "registered" to the vehicle or will the battery management system adapt in awhile such that any PXXX fault codes disappear ?

Thanks

Tom in Austin

USA cars use industry-standard battery types ... in my 2016 the main battery is an H8, and the aux battery is basically a common motorcycle battery. In both cases I got AGM (absorbed glass mat) replacements as these are the newer technology. Here's a link to the H8 ... https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...0-CCA/40647529. This thread discusses the aux battery and I bought one of the kind mentioned in here from Amazon ... https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...unction-3.html.

I did not have my car 'coded' for the new main battery. Posted on here and no one was sure what difference it would make, possibly reduced battery life. Since it would cost almost as much to have the 'coding' done as to buy another battery, I decided to take my chances and assume the fine Mercedes battery management technology would figure it out. So far it seems to be fine, no fault codes, etc.

waterzap99

The part numbers I have for the batteries are:

Aux Battery - A0009829308
Main Battery - A0009821808

I did not code the battery or anything. The main battery is very easy to replace. 5 min job max.
The smaller one is a bit more involved

Joshua

Thank you Tom ... Much appreciate you taking the time to respond.

An update - As I took my car to get the Power Magic Pro module (Blackvue Dash Cam DR 900S) replaced as it was dead, the tech tested my battery and reported that its voltage was dropping to about 11.8 volts which causes the new Parking Mode Power Magic Pro module to shut down parking mode (it is set to switch of so there is no parasitic drain if the battery drops below 12 volts.

So, it looks like I need to replace my main OEM battery (now 3 years 9 months old) - After Covid I semi retired and no longer make the daily work commute into the city (a round trip of about 60 km, 37ish miles) which I suppose used to keep my battery fully charged. The last two years have been short trips (10 kms or less) around my local suburb. So guess I am not surprised the battery needs replacing.

Joshua

PS: In order to get fact / concrete information about the obligatory (sic) coding or not of the new replacement battery (which is the exact OEM branded VARTA CCA 950, 105Ah AGM) I contact a local independent garage. They confirmed that whilst the new battery will work right off the bat with no coding (it may throw up some minor codes which will get automatically resolved (!!) it is best to code the battery. The reason for this is that over the last year or so as the battery health was on a downward trend due to my short local trips, etc, the S560 battery management system will have been compensating for this by supplying additional voltage to keep the battery fully charged. This is not good for a new battery (in lay mans terms for me). So telling the car battery management system that a new factory spec battery has been fitted apparently tells the system to revert back to the "normal top up charging voltage the car needs. Apparently supplying an "over voltage" is remembered by the car and this "memory" has to be reset.

I guess this explains the mystery around "to code or not code"...

Hope all find this useful. If anyone has alternative thoughts and views it would be great to have them.

Joshua

Update - Battery now replaced with an OE Factory Spec VARTA H15 Battery. VARTA Part Number AGM 605 901 095 (short Code H15). The battery place said no coding was necessary. He did hook an an OBD tool (AUTEL) and confirmed no fault codes present. OEM Mercedes Part Number A000 982 18 08 (which was also a Varta badged with a Mercedes Blue Label.

Dealer Price - supply and fitted - $AUD 1675.
Battery Retailer - Exactly the same Battery (and the battery retailer confirmed dealerships buy from him) - $AUD 700 (supplied and fitted right in front of me.

Mmmmmm