Hey there, I’m having an issue with my 2015 S63 sedan I had a connector that was broken (from previous owner) so I went ahead and got a new connector. I plugged everything up the same like the other side with the wiring in same slots. However, I’m still getting exhaust flap and exhaust flap 2 short to ground. Is anyone able to shed some light on this issue?

I traced the wires in the trunk but it goes into a big harness and from there I’m not sure where it runs to. I don’t believe there is a fuse for this because it’s not specified in any of the fuse boxes.

Anyone in the DMV area with an S63 that would be willing to let me look at their car to see how the wiring to the plug is ran?

These exhaust flaps are annoying af. It doesn’t even show the wiring diagram in WIS. I’ve already checked with no luck. Someone help!

Has test been performed to note if the short is in the actuator or the wiring?

The wiring will be on WIS, probably looking with incorrect term.

I do not have a new actuator to test with but the tests I ran were:

- Removed actuator to inspect spring and any water deposits inside the pin area (nothing broken or any pins showing corrosion)
- Tested the actuator plugged in while off the muffler to see any resistance because of the spring (still shows same fault code)
- Plugged one side each time to determine if one actuator was at fault. Only thing I figured out here was that exhaust flap 2 is on driver side muffler and exhaust flap is on passenger side
- Inspected connectors to see any wires touching other pins and traced wires to see if any insulation was damaged. Nothing was found here either
- If anyone can assist me on how to read the voltage, I can try running that to see if wires are getting correct voltage. With car engine started I get lower voltage on each pin (like 2 volts max on 2 pins, third shows 0 volts, guessing that’s ground). With car ignition on and engine off, I got like 3 volts on two pins and 0 on last pin

Onboard diagnostics is indicating short to ground, test actuator and wiring for resistance.
If short found on actuator replace component.
If short found on wiring disconnect control unit and test.
If test continues to indicate short replace wiring.
If short disappears diagnose control unit.

Which control unit would it be? I’ll research on how to test actuator and wiring resistance.. is there a way to test the actuator removed from vehicle?

Here’s a link to my test of the actuator. I replicated the test on both actuators and both kicked on the same way.

In that model it's the ME, you are looking for exhaust flap actuator.

Since you are looking for a short removing the parts was not necessary.
Continue to check wiring for short.

Oil solenoid is on a fuse labeled engine electronics. Just because it’s not specified doesn’t mean it’s not on a fuse. Maybe check each fuse in the trunk fusebox.

Which fuse box and what number? I’ve checked all the fuses in rear and front passenger side footwell

Still looking for answers