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My car is about to hit 60K and I am going to change the spark plugs...the procedure looks fairly sratightforward, although I am leary about disconnecting the battery...does anyone have any advice about the coils or disconnecting the battery for an hour or more?
Thanks in Advance.
My car is about to hit 60K and I am going to change the spark plugs...the procedure looks fairly sratightforward, although I am leary about disconnecting the battery...does anyone have any advice about the coils or disconnecting the battery for an hour or more?
Thanks in Advance.
I've never disconnected the battery for any of the plug changes I've done.
If your coil setup is similar to my wife's E500, it's pretty straight forward. One coil per cylinder with 2 plugs per (16 spark plugs total). Keep track which line is A and B. Don't use too much dielectric grease when re-installing or the wire will slide off slowly (fit so tight there was a slight vacuum...putting it on slowly seemed to help a bit). If you're done and it's idling roughly when you re-start check to see if one didn't pop off.
As above, no need to disconnect the battery. Though be very careful when pulling the coils off.
I got a friend mechanic of mine to do mine, his advice to you is . . . . . . the front 8 are pretty straight forward, but get a "swear-jar" for the rear 8.
As above, no need to disconnect the battery. Though be very careful when pulling the coils off.
I got a friend mechanic of mine to do mine, his advice to you is . . . . . . the front 8 are pretty straight forward, but get a "swear-jar" for the rear 8.
Hello could you explain what a "swear jar" is? I too am going to tackle my plugs but I seen a few members with COLD Plugs so to speak, what exactly is that and does anyone have the part#'s to them, I'm a recent owner of a 03' S55.
2006 s65. Ford Excursion 6.0. Pontiac GTO convertible. Porsche 944 Turbo SCCA car. Wife-E550 and 968
Originally Posted by merc79
Hello could you explain what a "swear jar" is? I too am going to tackle my plugs but I seen a few members with COLD Plugs so to speak, what exactly is that and does anyone have the part#'s to them, I'm a recent owner of a 03' S55.
methinks he means you are going to be cursing your a$$ off so you should put out a jar to collect a fine against yourself every time you drop a s-bomb, f-bomb, or M-F-P-O-S bombs.
(I have one at work, when it hits 50 bucks I buy drinks!)
methinks he means you are going to be cursing your a$$ off so you should put out a jar to collect a fine against yourself every time you drop a s-bomb, f-bomb, or M-F-P-O-S bombs.
(I have one at work, when it hits 50 bucks I buy drinks!)
...LOL....alrite I feel really stupid now for asking that question , but there is a special tool to get the spark plug boots off if I remember correctly for the plugs near the firewall which are hard to get to. I'm thinking of getting the Iridiium type plugs by Bosch or has anyone used DENSo?
methinks he means you are going to be cursing your a$$ off so you should put out a jar to collect a fine against yourself every time you drop a s-bomb, f-bomb, or M-F-P-O-S bombs.
(I have one at work, when it hits 50 bucks I buy drinks!)
That is exactly what i ment, for the rear ones are not easy at all. They can be done, just have to struggle quite a lot thats all.
Unless your doing serious engine mods then dont worry about cold plugs, just stick with the normal ones. I thought i would put Bosch Platinum in mine, funnily enough the last guy must have done the same thought as thats what came out of the car aswell. Never had any problems with them.
Rule of thumb, for every 50-70 hp added, you should go one plug range colder. Plugs are easy to change and a good plug wire puller or 17 mm wrench can help get the wiresd off. Tehy can be tough to get loose. Be carefull with coil wires, as they can get brittle with heat. Just un-screw colis and lay them gently on the blower and keep them connected.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
I found carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the coil wires to the epoxy spark packs "wipes" any corrosion hence higher resistance that may have built up. But as "ExoticM" says one must be careful. In fact, I had one tech say I needed to replace one spark pack but the "wiping" cured the problem. Unlike the V12s the epoxy packs appear to be robust almost built to aerospace standards where potting modules is par for the course. Thus I was leery when I was told replace expensive module. Of course of the module has been compromised, eg, a crack, one should replace it and measure the condition/resistance of the wires. I'm sure someone else know what the resistance should measure.
BTW I would use exactly the plugs mentioned in the Owners Manual. However, if you have a modified engine as EM says one must go down a heat range as a rule.
Rule of thumb, for every 50-70 hp added, you should go one plug range colder. Plugs are easy to change and a good plug wire puller or 17 mm wrench can help get the wiresd off. Tehy can be tough to get loose. Be carefull with coil wires, as they can get brittle with heat. Just un-screw colis and lay them gently on the blower and keep them connected.
Hmmm....I bought the NGK Iridium Resistor LFR7AIX since they were on sale for a great price $5.65 on Amazon last nite, now its like $9 something which is really weird. Since I'm running stock s55AMG with only thing modded would be the K&N air filters, will I run into any problems after the install of the plugs? LIke miss fires etc.....?
NGK was good enuff for the stock S55 AMG and is good for you.
I use a long skinny 14mm open end wrench to help me pop the base of each plug wire off the plugs. They are friction fitted by the ground shields. Just sitting in the holes. A little leverage from the open-end wrench helps pop them off the plugs.
Your tool drawer should include a good socket set with various extension lengths and various wobble versions. It helps to have a wobble-extension on the socket to get at the back plugs. I removed the air boxes to get full access.
Don’t worry about the battery.
Be careful if you decide to disconnect each ignition pack from the electrical source harness, as the plastic connectors would be brittle by now. Go slow and don’t force them.