amstel78

Hello all,

Due to the VW fiasco, I ended up turning in my TDI on Saturday. In the meantime, I've found a low mileage (approx 54k miles) S65 AMG which I've purchased and am waiting for delivery. Unfortunately the car doesn't have too many maintenance records, however the dealer that sold me the car recently had the trunk motor replaced, along with the power steering pump, automatic transmission pan gasket, a couple of high pressure lines, etc. The dealer claims the vehicle drives perfectly, and all interior electronics work properly.

I asked about the ABC system - he says the vehicle doesn't have any leaks, and doesn't sag, even if left sitting for a week or two.

All in all, from what I can tell, it seems to be in very good condition for its age.

I am curious though, as I can't seem to find many DIY threads on the W220 S65's - what's involved with an oil change since the car doesn't have a dip stick? From photos, I see what appears to be a dipstick tube at the front passenger side of the engine. There's a plug on top. I assume this is where a normal dipstick would go. I've read that people here have successfully used an extractor to do the job? If that's the case, would that tube be the correct location?

Anyway, I can't wait for the delivery truck to arrive. Only options missing from this car are Parktronic and Distronic... which is a shame, but oh well. Two less things to go wrong I suppose.

Any suggestions and tips anyone can give me here to check once I receive the vehicle is most appreciated.

This is the car I bought. Got the dealer down to $28,500 out the door including delivery from Chicago to Pennsylvania.
http://www.mancusomotorsports.com/20...htm?type=Used&

cmpcpro

The ABC pump is part of the power steering pump so that's great that it's been replaced. Mine was just done a few days ago too. I'm sure when they did that they did the fluid and rodeo.

You can buy the dip stick to use when changing the oil. Yes that's the tube with the cap. Yes that's where you would extract the oil if you wanted to go that route but I always prefer to go the traditional route.

amstel78

Thanks for the reply cmpcpro. According to the work order that was sent to me, the tandem pump was replaced due to "whirring / burbling noise." They added power steering fluid, but no mention of ABC fluid. Should I be concerned?

I've attached a PDF copy of the work order. Let me know what you think.

cmpcpro

Well before I go any farther I want to be clear I am not an expert on these cars. This is my second W220 but my first with ABC. I am not sure if they just replaced the pump without flushing it but it looks that way. The price of the pump is quite a bit higher than a normal rebuilt and less than a new one so I'm not sure if they are just overcharging for it or perhaps the fluid was included with it? Doubtful unfortunately. I would think if the fluid looked bad to them they would have replaced it though. The best thing to do is call them and be nice and friendly and ask them if they can give you any more information on what was done to it and perhaps you will get lucky and they will remember it and be able to tell you what they did with the job.

maw1124

I also don't know how they got away with 2 liters of fluid (CHF 11). If it was my car, I'd take it immediately to a dealer and have them do an ABC flush and fill. Also, to look over the car and "advise" of anything else it needs. This is for a few reasons: (1) dealers can see what's been done to the car from the VIN and print you a VMI (Vehicle Master Inquiry), which is good to have in your file; (2) dealers are also good for fly-speaking a car and giving you a laundry list, because they want to sell you. You'll likely decline most of the list, but you'll know (if the car has needs, and if the dealer is honest); (3) you'll know the car has the right amount of hydraulic fluid in it and it'll all be new, because the dealer will be on the hook for it if it's not; and (4) if there are any more companies selling warranties on these (maybe, maybe not) a dealer will know for sure.

Looks like you got a good car with most of the big ticket items taken care of. I'd love to know what that trans fluid looked like when it was emptied. The ABC fluid was probably fine enough to save, but doing the above will make sure. Plus it will give you a lot more information on your car (between the VMI and inspection). And that's well worth what the dealer will charge you for the ABC service, which will NEVER hurt you.

Cheers,

maw

amstel78

Thanks maw. Once I have the car, I'll take it to the Mercedes dealer in Manhattan and ask them to do a VMI and ABC flush.

Probably a good time to look for an independent as well. I'd like to check and replace (if needed) the engine and transmission mounts.

maw1124

I can recommend a good Indy in NJ -- the Oranges. Be sure to have only OEM mounts put in. I also think that's good dealer work, just because it's almost the only way to be sure you get OEM parts. I know people love to save money (as do I). But the parts are what make Mercedes S Classes the cars they are. Fluids and filters, spark plugs and tires, I think you can play around with non-OEM. But not chassis rubber. Others will surely chime in.

Good luck.

maw

amstel78

Thanks again Maw. Please send me the name of the independent shop in Jersey.

I also found this place closer to me - Google reviews seem to be good. Anyone here have any experience with them?

http://www.minhsautocare.com
http://www.minhsautocare.com/mercede...JLgaAlNH8P8HAQ

cmpcpro

I had the motor and trans mounts replaced in mine the other day too and it's very nice having fresh mounts! Nice and smooth. All my front bushings checked out but I'm really picky and can feel a little something if I hit a driveway just right. I also feel the car pulling a little when I go over a bump a certain way. I'm betting it's the ball joints so that's what I'll probably have done next.

amstel78

May I ask what the cost was including labor to have the engine and trans mounts replaced?

cmpcpro

I have connections so my prices are probably cheaper but I paid $251 out the door at the dealer for the three mounts and $350 labor for the work, but MB calls for 6 hours labor for the motor mounts! Evidently it's a tight fit and to do it correctly stuff has to be moved to do it.

kyosuke

the abc tandem pump cost 1699 whole sale or 2k if you try to go buy one from the dealer out right. and it takes at least 10 liters to flush it all out and refill. sounds like they just put 2 liters in it and called it a day.

amstel78

Perhaps they used a reman pump; that would explain the price. I've seen a few remanufactured tandem pumps in the same price range.

cmpcpro

My pump was a rebuilt from I believe Mayle or some well known brand with a similar name who my specialist friend said he's had very good luck with their rebuilt parts and it was $264 or $284.

Quadrobenz

cmpcpro, we might be discussing different cars regarding the cost of replacing motor mounts. Your signature shows an S55, amstel78 has an S65. The motor mount replacement on a V12 Biturbo requires either raising the motor or dropping the front subframe. Reason being the turbo's block access to the motor mount attachment hardware. I have had them replaced on my 2005 and 2009 SL600's and on the 2006 S65 before I sold it. The transmission mount is simple. All three mounts on an S65 is about $2100 at a dealer with a 10% discount. I just had my 2 motor mounts replaced under warranty on the 2009 SL600, right at the end of the extended 7 year factory warranty. Would have been about $1850 with a courtesy discount.

cmpcpro

Thanks Tom you are correct. That slipped right past me. I was referring to the S55.

amstel78

Thank you for the detailed information. If it's approximately $2100-2500 for all 3 mounts to be replaced at the dealer, would you or anyone else know what a reliable independent shop may charge for the same job? How many hours of labor would this normally take?

amstel78

So I called a well known independent in my area, along with the Manhattan MB dealership in order to get price quotes for an ABC flush and fill. The indy quoted me $825.00 whereas the dealer quoted $850.00. Surprisingly, the dealer said not to do the service if there's nothing wrong with the ABC system. I've read however countless posts here and elsewhere that the ABC system should really be flushed at least every 2 years.

What's more surprising is the cost the independent wanted to charge with 2 hours labor. If I were to buy the Pentosin CHF-11S fluid myself at $20.00 a liter, that's only $300 for the fluid. Average labor rate in the area is $95-100 per hour.

I guess I better do this job myself. Would it be possible to do a good enough system flush by drain/fill, adjust height up and down several times, pause, then drain/fill repeat until the fluid is clean and clear?

EDIT: found this link online. I'm assuming the procedure is the same with our W220 S-class? http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...hange-diy.html

cmpcpro

There is a YouTube video on the flush

amstel78

Thanks. Watched the videos on Youtube. Easy stuff. Thank you. You just saved me $500.00.

amstel78

Well, the car's officially on the truck on its way from Chicago as I type. According to the driver, he should be in Pennsylvania sometime late morning, early afternoon. Fingers crossed the car arrives in the same shape it left the dealer.

amstel78

So the car arrived and now I'm bummed. Took it to go pick up my wife about 45 miles away. Drive about 10 miles and then got on the highway. Decided to see how the engine performed and gave it some gas. The car accelerated easily to about 85 and then the dreaded CEL came on. Massive loss of power ensued. It was too late to turn around so I kept going.

When I came home, plugged in my OBDII scanner. Got a P0300 along with P0305 and P0306. So, I have a misfire in cylinders 5 and 6. Those were the only codes. Should I change the plugs first before replacing the passenger side coil pack?

Additionally, there's a loud humming sound that's most noticeable at low rpm. From what I've read, it seems to be the driver side pulsation damper. They just replaced the tandem pump so it makes sense. Is there air in the system and it'll sort itself out or do I have to replace the accumulator?

Finally, neither key is recognized by the car so the touch door locks or keyless ignition start button doesn't work.

Oh, one last thing... The trunk lid closes by itself. Scared the crap out of me while I was fiddling around in the trunk. Any way to get it to stop that?

Moral of the story? Never buy a car sight unseen which is what I did in this case. I took the dealer at his word and now I have a car that needs immediate attention rather than me being able to enjoy it.

cmpcpro

The trunk closing is an easy thing. It's the shock absorbers. BMA has the same brand as original for like $40. What color are your keys? The old black ones? If they are the new chrome and black ones they won't work with the keyless Go. Also, you need to have them programmed at the dealer. They come working like normal keys but the KG has to be programmed. Sorry I can't help you on the other ones I don't have a 12.

amstel78

The keys are the old black ones. One is a new dealer made key, the other is an original. Neither seem to work.

About the trunk. Took a closer look this morning. It appears there's only one hour support shock installed on the driver side. The passenger side is missing. Would that be the reason why the trunk automatically closes itself after 20-30 seconds?

amstel78

Ugh. Just discovered under the light this morning that the sharkfin antenna on the rear glass is gone. Well, not gone completely but the cover is missing. I thought I saw it on last night when it was coming off the trailer but I can't remember. I did notice something rattling coming from the back yesterday when I drove it so maybe it came off on the highway.

I'm really bummed and having the worst case of buyer's remorse. Not sure what to do at this point.