S55 AMG, S65 AMG , S63 AMG (W220, W221) 2001 - 2013 (Two Generations)

05 s55 IC pump upgrade to 010

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Old May 21, 2021 | 10:03 PM
  #1  
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Offshore Research Vessel, 2016 Camry, Telluride, 2005 S55 AMG
05 s55 IC pump upgrade to 010

Ok fellas, I replaced my IC pump today with the upgraded Bosch 010 pump as it was on my list of preventative maintenance items.

I pulled the old pump out and yellow coolant came out which is what was in the car when I bought it. However, I did a complete or so I thought coolant system flush. I used the new blue coolant from Mercedes.

My questions are:
Why was the coolant still yellow in my IC system but blue in my main cooling system? And Why can I not hear the pump running as im under the car? I let the car get to operating temp and all, pump got warm but hoses were not. If the pump was running then its the most smooth and quiet pump I have ever had.

I appreciate any feedback.

Chris
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Old May 22, 2021 | 08:10 AM
  #2  
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'03 S55 (79K miles)
Check pump separately

Is the old pump working? Apply 12V and GND at the connector of the pump you removed and verify it worked.

Can you still get at the new pump’s connector? Maybe you can verify the new pump is working too. Then at least you know those work and “should have been recirculating” coolant.

I think you are inferring that the pump is not getting turned on for some reason, which would leave stale coolant. So probe the pump connector from the ECU to measure for 12V power to the pump.

I don’t know the IC coolant flow well enough to advise on that. Is it possible it does not share its coolant with the engine’s coolant and has its own separate loop through the radiator?
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Old May 22, 2021 | 08:47 AM
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GrepAwk,

I will have to check to see if the pump is getting power. I don't know if the old pump worked or not so ill have to check that too. I have never had the supercharger shut down due to temperatures, but then again I don't drive the car hard or often.

I'm not even at 57k miles yet so its hard to believe the old pump stopped working, but then again it is original. Do you happen to know where the fuse/relay may be hiding?

I thought this system was tied into the main cooling system, but I too am not very familiar with this system. I can't find a video or much information on it either. If I can't figure it out then I may take it to a shop as diagnosing possible electrical issues are beyond my scope of knowledge.

Chris
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Old May 22, 2021 | 10:57 AM
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I’m not of much help here, except to indicate that enough people talk about “split cooling” as a mod for these cars that I’m pretty share the coolant loop is “shared” unless and until it is split. @GrepAwk seems to have a good approach, however, and keep in mind @CaptainR that this intercooler pump was upgraded by MB and superseded after original release. I think part of that was it didn’t provide enough cooling to prevent supercharger disengagement due to heat. Part of it may have been plain old garden variety failure. As to your questions, is there any chance this car’s coolant system was split at some point? I don’t recall where it came from, but if from a warm weather environment there is that chance. It’s also possible that this car’s multiple radiators mean the coolant flush was in fact not complete.

maw

Last edited by maw1124; May 22, 2021 at 11:03 AM.
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Old May 22, 2021 | 12:58 PM
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The car itself was bought new in Florida from an older gentleman who was a pro PGA player, so I wouldn't think he would have messed with the cooling system. At least im quite certain it wasn't split.

With the cooling system not being split to my knowledge and driving the car, it makes me wonder why the coolant didn't mix in. I will check it out when I get home from work as long as the wife doesn't yell at me for spending to much time with my new mistress in the garage.

I cannot even find a diagram for the fuse and relay layout and location. If I cannot figure it out ill take it to my local shop who specializes in German cars.

Chris
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Old May 23, 2021 | 09:37 AM
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See if any of the attachments in this thread are useful... https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-s...lass-w220.html

maw
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Old May 23, 2021 | 12:33 PM
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Thanks Maw,

The new pump must be working as I checked yesterday after running the car and pulling the IC pump hose the coolant was blue. The pump must not run all the time. My guess is when air intake temperature is higher.

Either way I 'm on to my next project, accumulators, pulsation damper, leaky fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.

Chris

Last edited by CaptainR; May 23, 2021 at 12:40 PM.
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Old May 23, 2021 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainR
Thanks Maw,

The new pump must be working as I checked yesterday after running the car and pulling the IC pump hose the coolant was blue. The pump must not run all the time. My guess is when air intake temperature is higher.

Either way I 'm on to my next project, accumulators, pulsation damper, leaky fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.

Chris
No, it does not run all the time... that’s a great bang for the buck next project.

Cheers,

maw
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Old May 23, 2021 | 06:29 PM
  #9  
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Yes, I'm excited to see how the car acts after changing the rest of my list items.

Chris
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Old May 23, 2021 | 07:31 PM
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Here’s a hint... Rock. Solid. Over. Bumps.

maw
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Old May 23, 2021 | 08:01 PM
  #11  
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It better not ride rock solid after I change the accumulators and pulse damper. It doesn't ride like that currently, but if the ride becomes harsh after changing these items then it will be next up on the marketplace.
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Old May 23, 2021 | 08:11 PM
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Not harsh. Solid. Tough to explain but you'll see. It's almost like the rebound rate is faster and tighter with all fresh fluids and dampers. I noticed the same on my 500E. It almost feels like new struts.

maw

Last edited by maw1124; May 23, 2021 at 09:06 PM.
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Old May 23, 2021 | 09:40 PM
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You had me worried there Maw. I understand now what you mean, more responsive.

You are very proficient with these cars... placing the transmission in comfort mode, does that soften the suspension or just adjust shifting and 2nd gear start?

I read through my owners manual and couldn't find any info.

Chris
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Old May 23, 2021 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainR
You had me worried there Maw. I understand now what you mean, more responsive.

You are very proficient with these cars... placing the transmission in comfort mode, does that soften the suspension or just adjust shifting and 2nd gear start?

I read through my owners manual and couldn't find any info.

Chris
C v S v M are just shift patterns to my knowledge. They don’t change the suspension setting. Only the ABC Sport button on the dash does that. Now, put an asterisk next to that as there is someone here selling an ABC tune. If that module can be tuned, it wouldn’t surprise me if there’s some slight ABC calculation based upon drive mode, acceleration, lateral movement, etc. But as you note, MB AMG haven’t been keen to tell anyone that dark science. I’m generally in regular ABC mode, ABC Sport at highway speeds. But again, you’ll notice the before / after difference from your ABC service. These cars feel right when they’re not broken. Then you’ll do a service and feel what right really is.

Enjoy,

maw
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Old May 23, 2021 | 11:21 PM
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That would be an interesting tune to do! I still would like to do the TCU tune that you mentioned in one of my other posts eventually. I generally run in regular ABC mode myself and hit the Sport button if I'm turning trying to beat a light. It is amazing when the system works as it feels like the car runs on rails. It's very different and not what one would expect when it is a 2+ ton sedan. The system amazes me and scares me all in one as there is so much to this system. I guess in time I will become more at ease with the old girl.

Chris
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 06:42 AM
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C215 CL 600, W220 S65, W221 S550, 1969 442 vert, 2000 MCY Viggen vert, 1992 900 vert, 1986 B350 RR
Originally Posted by maw1124
C v S v M are just shift patterns to my knowledge. They don’t change the suspension setting. Only the ABC Sport button on the dash does that. Now, put an asterisk next to that as there is someone here selling an ABC tune. If that module can be tuned, it wouldn’t surprise me if there’s some slight ABC calculation based upon drive mode, acceleration, lateral movement, etc. But as you note, MB AMG haven’t been keen to tell anyone that dark science. I’m generally in regular ABC mode, ABC Sport at highway speeds. But again, you’ll notice the before / after difference from your ABC service. These cars feel right when they’re not broken. Then you’ll do a service and feel what right really is.

Enjoy,

maw
Greetings maw,

Any thoughts or input on W220 S65 IC pump, preventative or upgrade consideration? Just did ABC pump, pulsation damper, accumulators, seat pump, trunk pump and struts, combar and some sundries. Also wondering about a frayed coax cable. Noticed it when messing with the combar issues. It runs from the radio to the back but I don’t want to mess with the whole harness. Is there somewhere I would find a cable for that?

Frank
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 10:17 AM
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@Krazyleg I've never thought about a 65 pump. I think the upgraded pumps for these cars is plenty, unless you're at the track running it hard all day. I'm not in that space so I don't think much about those issues. But keep in mind your car already has dual heat exchangers whereas the E Class cars only have one. So in regular use, these pumps are fine.

Your car should be running well right now, based upon the above. As for the radio harness, I've stayed away from disassembling my interior as well, e.g., to run a microphone for the Mobridge BT system. I use it for music only. So I have no idea where any radio wires run. Re-wiring this car is not something I'm into. If anything I'll put in better speakers with the correct impedance, but that's using the same wiring infrastructure.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Cheers,

maw

Last edited by maw1124; Jun 10, 2021 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 10:33 AM
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C215 CL 600, W220 S65, W221 S550, 1969 442 vert, 2000 MCY Viggen vert, 1992 900 vert, 1986 B350 RR
Originally Posted by maw1124
@Krazyleg I've never thought about a 65 pump. I think the upgraded pumps for these cars is plenty, unless you're at the track running it hard all day. I'm not in that space so I don't think much about those issues. But keep in mind your car already has dual heat exchangers whereas the E Class cars only have one. So in regular use, these pumps are fine.

Your car should be running well right now, based upon the above. As for the radio harness, I've stayed away from disassembling my interior as well, e.g., to run a microphone for the Mobridge BT system. I use it for music only. So I have no idea where any radio wires run. Re-wiring this car is not something I'm into. If anything I'll put in better speakers with the correct impedance, but that's using the same wiring infrastructure.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Cheers,

maw
No worries. You remain an outstanding resource for which I am eternally grateful.

Cheers.
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 11:00 AM
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No worries... just paying it forward... these guys have been great for me and this car over the years.

How does the car feel after those services @Krazyleg?

maw
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 12:00 PM
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C215 CL 600, W220 S65, W221 S550, 1969 442 vert, 2000 MCY Viggen vert, 1992 900 vert, 1986 B350 RR
Originally Posted by maw1124
No worries... just paying it forward... these guys have been great for me and this car over the years.

How does the car feel after those services @Krazyleg?

maw
This car is amazing. I have one accumulator that is challenging. It is in the front valve block. The aluminum and steel have, more or less, fused. I didn’t want to go all at it in case I broke it. I want to make sure a new valve block is available, just in case. From 2007 forward, that accumulator is actually on the pump. That makes it an easier fix. 2006 backwards a little more challenging.

That issue creates something of a hum or a drone under hard braking where the front end dips and the suspension is put under load. That extra “push” on the suspension generates that sound. It is present at around 2000-2500 rpm both on the deceleration and return acceleration then it subsides. My sense is it is related to the nitrogen filled bladder, no more bladder talk. Ultimately not a big deal but I feel better about correct. Putting that aside, what an amazing experience driving a vehicle of this magnitude. There’s just nothing like it on the road other than my CL which might have been slightly superior. Do you know of any source for rebuilt valve blocks?

My last issue is a frayed coax cable at the rear roof line by the center rear window. Benz wants you to replace the whole wiring harness. I’m not going that route. I have to find someone that can address that issue. Any thoughts?

cheer
Frank
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 12:21 PM
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I just replaced all 3 accumulators and the pulsation damper. I found it to be a fairly easy job and relatively quick aside from having to drop the exhaust on the passenger side rear to get to one of the accumulators.

I was lucky that mine were not fused together. Have you tried soaking the area with pb blaster, liquid wrench? Worth a shot.
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 12:25 PM
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C215 CL 600, W220 S65, W221 S550, 1969 442 vert, 2000 MCY Viggen vert, 1992 900 vert, 1986 B350 RR
Originally Posted by CaptainR
I just replaced all 3 accumulators and the pulsation damper. I found it to be a fairly easy job and relatively quick aside from having to drop the exhaust on the passenger side rear to get to one of the accumulators.

I was lucky that mine were not fused together. Have you tried soaking the area with pb blaster, liquid wrench? Worth a shot.
I’ll have at it.

Thank you

Grateful Frank
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 06:09 PM
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Also, check eBay seller autohubshop for valve blocks. I've used them multiple times and I've noticed they have them refurbished for sale.

Cheers,

maw
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