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Hi !
2003 CL600
anyone has replaced the two divertor valves on the turbos and can help ?
I am getting the two new valve kits from mercedes tomorrow and have been reading articles but, has anyone a clear explanation with pictures or graphics please on how to get to the valves with minimal work
I don't want to remove the turbos
I heard an audible flutter at times when punching the car through a parking lot or something similar, where I would let off just as the boost was coming on. I assumed it was the valves being lazy, but from the look of them I believe it may just be normal since I drive like a jackass at times.
Thx, I dont have any symptoms but my MB is from 2003 and 186000 miles so they might be quite used...
So, if the subframe is the only solution, which is crazy, is there a clear explanation how to do that with some pictures or design please ? I didn't understand the other post
I removed the subframe by releasing the struts from the lower control arms and the knuckles from the upper control arms, loosened the subframe bolts, unhooked the lines from the rack and dropped it all the way out. It was a LOT of work to do just for the diverter valves, the only reason I was doing it, was that I blew an ABC hose and needed to do lots of maintenance, like the mounts and such, so I dropped the frame.
If you aren't having issues with the turbos not boosting, I wouldn't go that far in just for those valves.
I did the engine supports, but it sucked. The upper front bolt on both was a pain. You can't unbolt the mount from the arm with the turbo right above it, so I had to unbolt the support arm from the engine, then change the mount once it lowered down. I also did the turbo coolant seals while I was there, with the mount arm moved they are very simple to get to and a tremendous pain if they start leaking later on and require engine removal again to get at.
Thx, I dont have any symptoms but my MB is from 2003 and 186000 miles so they might be quite used...
So, if the subframe is the only solution, which is crazy, is there a clear explanation how to do that with some pictures or design please ? I didn't understand the other post
thx !
There are four large E-torx bolts that hold the sub-frame, mounted in each corner.
The engine mounts are bolted to the sub-frame from below, Each mount has a single, hex-head bolt. They're quite small, only need a 1/2" socket IIRC. These bolts screw into threaded holes in the metal mount frame. There's no nut to spin, as such. Removing the single engine mount bolts from underneath is trivially easy. They're mounted slightly ahead of the steering rack on the W215 & W220. These are the bolts:
Here, the front of the sub-frame is fully lowered (requires the steering rack to be disconnected, but shows what's possible. Basically you can see the engine block and everything attached to it, like the turbos, the engine mounts, the knock sensors, diverter valves, starter motor, alternator, ABC pump, AC compressor, and the infamous ABC line that goes from the pump to the regulator/accumulator).
Top left, you can see the RHS engine mount. In the middle, you can see two cables dangling down. These run down the wheel arch and connect to the steering rack and the ABC regulator. They're clipped to the side of the sub-frame, and you have to be aware of them when you drop the sub-frame.
The only other thing to be aware of is the PAS return hose that runs down the middle of this picture of the LHS of the engine, as seen from the front. That pipe is clipped to both the chassis and sub-frame, so you need to make sure you don't damage that if you lower the subframe.
It could have been a lot more difficult than that. Build and removal procedures consist of EITHER hoisting the engine and transmission in and out of the engine compartment with the sub-frame in position, OR dropping the engine and transmission together with the sub-frame. There is no provision for a different assemble / dismantle procedure like remove/refit the sub-frame with the engine in situ, so there's every reason to suppose that the sub-frame can only be installed with the engine out of the car.
With the exception of that hose and cable, that's not the case. So as long as you unscrew the ABC pipe mounts that conveniently run around the periphery of the sub-frame (and support the engine, obviously) there's very little reason not to lower the sub-frame.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; Oct 30, 2016 at 10:08 AM.
The engine is supported by a large block of wood straddling the two jack stands. To get it on the stands, I removed the two engine mount bolts from below, then lifted the engine very slightly. No need to undo any wires or hoses, and it was easy to undo the sub-frame bolts, without them having to support the weight of the engine.
Hello everybody,
This is a personal point of view after my subframe lowering experience
The incredible method invented by Welwynnick WORKS
But I want to warn all of you, It's really scary, and you have to take care removing a bolt on the left inside of the sub frame (facing the engine) that is hold by one end on the sub frame and one side on the chassis. the bolt is a 8mm from below the sub frame.
I replcaced both valves on the turbo
BUT, if you dream of replacing your engine mounts, FORGET IT WITHOUT COMPLETELY REMOVING THE SUBFRAME ! (mine where like new anyway)
Also, on the picture, I have created a method to easily bolt on the valves without struggling with the spring pressure. just make a little hose closed on one side, press the valve and it stays together for bolt on.
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divertor valves on a M275
