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Our early production 2010 GLK 2WD is about to reach 100K miles. 7K miles ago when in for service, it was noted that what the service dept. calls an upper thrust arm bushing was torn on one side. Researching this online came up with the upper control arm which does have a replaceable bushing, p/n 204-333-11-14-64 but from the MB picture the outer end is not a bushing by a tie-rod style of end. First, at this mileage, is the outer end likely to need replacing on this upper arm in the next 50K miles? If so then it appears that the upper control arm assembly will require replacement & not just the inner end bushing. At this point I think it is a good idea to replace the front struts, upper strut mount & the strut bearing. The dust cover & bump stop are not likely to be worn so not concerned about those two items. Are there any other front suspension parts that should be considered for replacement at this time? The sway bar end links have been replaced. TIA!!
2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
My 2010 has about the same mileage. Last summer I replaced all four control arms and the tie rod ends. The ball joints were shot. My struts seem to fine so far in spite of the road conditions around here. Get the Lemforder kit from FCP Euro.
Last edited by Silver Shadow; 02-13-2024 at 04:35 PM.
I see you're in Arizona. That's significant because there's a BIG difference in a GLK that's been driven in NYC for nearly 15 years, and one that's schlepped around southern Arizona for that same time.
To put it in perspective, I'm the guy who normally (OK, almost always...) advocates just shotgunning the entire suspension when you buy a high-mileage car, so you can get "new car feel" for the time you'll have it.
Thing is I picked up my 2011 GLK 350 in the Phoenix Arizona area with 150,000 miles on it. For the life of me, I can't think of a great reason to start replacing things. It's uncanny how it still drives and feels like a low-mileage car. So I'm going to take it on a "fix it as it breaks" approach.
FWIW, there's no way to replace JUST the tie rod end on that control arm, though it should theoretically be possible to replace the big bushing in the other end. Thing is, with the complete arm selling from Lemforder (OEM, IIRC) for about $100 from rockauto, why bother taking a chance that the tie rod end is getting worn out as well.
In the end, there's not a thing wrong with just replacing struts and control arms, bushings and the like "just because". But I think you'd be underwhelmed at the difference you're going to see by doing so. If it was my GLK, I'd just swap out the upper control arm (and probably do the other side, just for symmetry). I suspect that you might even get away not doing a post-repair alignment, though if you haven't had one in 50,000 miles or so, it would be prudent to do one just to make sure everything else is still lined up.
Here's a photo of a Lemforder upper control arm, FYI...
@Silver Shadow thank you for the response. Ontario Canada was one of my family's favourite get away places when I lived in the Midwest. Lake Superior Provincial Park was the annual venue. I also did the portage with my younger brother several times over the hills to Old Woman Lake which is beautiful. Last trips were to Chapleau Lodge at Borden Lake west of Timmons. @habbyguy your comment about the difference in NYC vs. my stomping grounds is spot on. I can imagine that your 2011 was pristine underneath when you brought it home. Our GLK lives a life of leisure, heck it hardly goes out in the rain! Such is retirement.
As to the GLK, it is my wife's car & it goes to the dealership for service, no discussion allowed as she states. Since the inner bushing on the upper control on one side arm is torn, I am leaning toward replacing both of the upper arms & not just the inner bushing. Neither of the outer joints on the upper & lower control arms have a zerk fitting so they will eventually need to be replaced, hence do the upper arm now makes sense. As to the lower, unless excess play is found in either end when dismantled by the shop, my inclination is to leave it. It looks like it could be replaced without disturbing anything else so it can wait. As to the alignment, it has been checked with every set of new tyres & no adjustment has been needed. As to the struts, 100K is enough on the OEM units. Most folks do not realise that gas struts can leak internally & weaken. In days of old, with oil controlled dampers, external leaks were the tell but not always the case now. The upper bearing & strut mount will be replaced too simply because it is apart. I look forward to more comments!
2010 here with 125k miles. I take a look every time I get on the lift and I haven't noticed any torn bushings. Some rust here and there. Even rear sub-frame looks ok. The car is garaged most of the time and not a daily driver so only occasional rain/snow/salt.
The problem with dealer maintenance is that it will get VERY expensive after 100k miles. OE parts are cheap but labor is stupid expensive and some genuine parts are pricey.
If you are DYIing and planning to keep the car I would just get the whole set from FCP including new shocks. But then you have to be prepared for the transfer case to go at any point.
@NYCGLK, I hear you about costs of parts & labor. This dealership will not provide discounts to the MB owner group which is a disappointment. Other marques owned over the years will give discounts on parts to members but not with this one. With two other vehicles that I maintain, she wants the dealership to service it, so be it.
@Silver Shadow the water in Agawa Bay is cold but not nearly as cold as the main body of Lake Superior. It was about the same year that we first frequented the region, shortly after the Queens Highway was finished over the top of Lake Superior. Great hiking opportunities there including following the Algoma Central Railroad from Fraser Station up about four miles to the Agawa River falls. Otherwise it was an overnighter. Good memories.
Went ahead with the upper control arm replacement, both sides, the struts, ditto & the upper bearing & plate. Did not do the bottom arm for now. Overall, other than the cost, I am pleased with the results. Certainly a different feel by the butt tool measurement & that is with tyres that will need replacement later this year. Awaiting the Mrs. arrival home after her first drive to hear her comments. Now if I can determine what the ticking noise is at idle....
My 2010 has about the same mileage. Last summer I replaced all four control arms and the tie rod ends. The ball joints were shot. My struts seem to fine so far in spite of the road conditions around here. Get the Lemforder kit from FCP Euro.
Did you feel a difference in steering play when the tie rods were replaced?
I just picked up a 2012 GLK 350 for my son's family (their "newer" Toyota is getting really long in the tooth). They've been impressed with our GLK, and I was happy to put them into one that should last them a good long time.
Anyway, one of the reasons the PO was selling was that the car had a very significant "death wobble" under braking. Didn't really send you off into the ditch, but it is distinctly unpleasant. Lots of shaking and ugly noises coming from the front end. He told me that the car "needed front brakes" (something I knew wasn't so because the rotors were nearly new, and the pads were visually unworn). No doubt he had a (bad) shop swap brakes to try to fix the problem.
When I got it home, it was very clear what was wrong - both lower control arm compliance bushings showed obvious signs of having lost their fluid (signs of black fluid having run down from the bushings, plus a cartoonish squishing sound when I compressed the bushings with a prybar). About $150 sent to FCP Euro is going to solve that particular problem, along with a (probably needed anyway...) alignment.
02-13-2024, 03:25 PM
