I am breaking a late 1997 blue / black SL 320, does anyone need any spares? If so, Email me a description & I'll tell you the price. Bare in mind I'm in the UK... pigzmickey@msn.com

Do you mean breaking it down and selling off the parts?

That would just be good business if the parts are worth more than the whole.

At some level I am sad to see such an apparantly good condition late model SL being torn apart.

i would be interested in the side "vents" for a good price...

Hi, I am a god friend to Chris on www.mbsca.com and I know that he have vents for a good price. E-mail me so I can help you at hakan.nordell@r129.info
If you are more than one you can even get a better price.

/Håkan

does he have any modified for the pre-1996? if you coud give me a price for two that would be great.


mark

That is for facelift 1989 - and on... I guarantee, he is serious.....

If our Scandinavian friend doesn't come through, I do have 2 sets of the upgrade side vents. 1 set is obviously blue/black & the other is met silver.
I will most likely post different bits on my eBay account: ladyclairevile

You can check my feedback etc...

I do like those rims.

They may be a bit sporty for my desert silver SL.

I can't believe no one has noticed the AMG bodykit yet!?!

how much would the body kit be shipped to California? ive been looking for them but they are very expensive.

****for the rite price i woud put my name on the list for the kit******

I haven't got a clue (is the honest answer). At this stage I am still stripping, I will take offers for the most wanted parts, and the rest I will put on eBay.co.uk (ladyclairevile) please check my feedback.
As for the different shipping cost's, I think it's better & easier for me to leave that up to the buyers to calculate.
Obviously I will eventually arrange the shipping (as per buyers request if required) and confirm shipping cost's at that time, but for now I am solely interested in part price & not shipping. After all, I can't know the S/H cost to all global destinations...

Thanks for your interest,
Mark.

what kind of rims are those? Size? Offset? Did you have to use spacers? If so, what size?

Also how much in a dollar amount prior to shipping are you looking to get for the rims? And how much for the AMG body kit?

The wheels are cosmetic split rims for the SL 129, no spacers needed. They are 18" with 235 tyres (40% wear) on the front & 265 (60% wear) on the rear, several would benefit from a light refurb. I expect S/H outside the UK to be high on such a heavy item, maybe it's not viable to sell outside of Europe!?! Customers choice.

As for the AMG bodykit, I am still taking offers. Several of them have been over $1000... All offers are welcomed!

Regards,

hmm... you are probably right. I just like the way those look on the R129, never seen them on one before. By chance do you know the offset that the rims have. Are they replica AMG's? Perhaps I would be able to locate a set in the states before trying to import a set

Pigzmickey,
I need some spare parts but I dont know if they will fit. However, the parts I need is:

Picture 1 - item 095, part# A 000 542 64 18, SENDER UNIT

Picture 2 - item 026, part# A 129 820 39 26, CONTROL UNIT

Do you have them, and what is the price?

/Håkan

I've had an offer for the whole car, and I think I may take it. Sorry...

Okey, I went to the stealer this morning and asked him to replace the stuff above. A warning! All I did was to put the car in the garage for the winter, and in the spring I charge the battery with the charger and the car connected to the battery. When I started the engine the button for the cab twinkle, and the warnings for the roll-over bar and ADS. The button for the cab was solved with a reset of the computer, but to fix the rest I need to replace both sender and control unit. The price? Well, $4284 or £2236

Hi,
What size are they, and Howmuch for the rims please?

Best regards,

Peter

Unbelievable! So what are they saying happened? Charging the battery with the car connected has destroyed the control unit? What sort of battery charger were you using. Was it a very high current one or a properly regulated charger?

Don't understand what the sender unit is for, what is that doing?

To be honest with you -I really don´t know, but I sure will try to find out. In the EPC it´s filed beneath "82 - Electrical system / 420 Electrical window regulators and folding top control" but I have no problem that so ever, with my folding top

Concerning the charger, I look in to that this evning.

BlueSL, nothing special here aboute the charger. It is a BOSCH KL 1206 E (4 A arith. and 85 W).
/Håkan
.

As you say. nothing special about the charger. These provide an unregulated output and voltage spikes on the input will be transferred to the output and, it seems, cook your control unit. If you want to charge a battery while still connected to the car, I'd recommend a highly regulated charger, such as are made by the Norwegian company Mascot. It's what I use.

I look in to that. It´s a cheep insurance to prevent me from future costs. Thanx blueSL

A little electronics lesson.

A battery charger consists of a transformer to convert the power from the wall socket (240v in UK/Europe, 110v in the US) to a notional 12-14v and a full wave rectifier to convert the AC (alternating current) to DC (direct current).

Although the DC output averages to about the correct voltage, if you look at it in detail using an oscilloscope, you'll see the peak voltage rather more than the average (to be pedantic, root mean square) voltage. Also, open circuit, the voltage is higher than it is under load. The instantaneous voltage can easily be more than 20v.

So, a conventional battery charger is a pretty rough supply of power and the role of the battery is to act as a voltage clamp to prevent the voltage rising above the 12-14 v expected. A well designed electronic control unit should have its own voltage regulator to provide the constant, low noise electric power required and it should also provide over-voltage protection so that if too much voltage is presented, a short circuit is presented and the fuse protecting that circuit blows to protect the control unit.

That's why...

- you shouldn't disconnect the battery while the engine is running; the alternator provides more than enough power to keep things running but the battery is an important part of the voltage regulation process; without it, the output of the alternator can rise dangerously and cook your electronics

- you shouldn't replace fuses with ones of higher values. They are there to protect both the wiring and the control units.

As we've seen here, control units are unbelievably expensive due to their specialised nature (low volume = high cost) and they can rarely be repaired.

So, if you need to charge your battery, use a good quality charger which regulates the charging current and prevents the charging voltage exceeding safe limits. If you have only a basic charger, you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery before charging it.

The small battery conditioner chargers used to trickle charge are not a problem because the current they can deliver into the circuit is very limited.

Take a look at http://www.mascot.no/pdf/2047.pdf for a recommended charger.

Thanx blueSL for the lesson. I´m familiar with the brand "mascot. I have a charger that work the other way around
.