rellik

I am planning on venturing out into the world of doing my own oil changes

what weight oil would you recommend for a 1993 500Sl with 97k miles?

ive heard things about fleece fliters rather than the standard paper filters, where could i obtain these filters?

what type of topside extractor would anyone recommend, or would you recommend using the drain plug to remove old oil?

thanks
Hersh Singh

rellik

anybody??

agentMurdoc

hello there fellow do-it-yourselfer

I personally use ONLY synthetic oil. Either Mobil 1 or Castrol. It is a tad bit more expensive, but personally I wouldn't settle for anything less.

When I use Mobil 1, I use 10w-30 and when using Castrol Sythetic I use 10w-40. The majority of the time I use Mobil 1 though.

As for the filters, I use only OEM filters. I buy the filters direct from the dealership and they are "reasonably" priced.

As for changing the oil on your car, info is based off of personally working on a '91 SL500 which should be the same for your '93, the oil filter is on the passenger side. You will need to remove the intake tubing (accordian looking thing) and then from there, you will see a aluminum colored canister (color/material like the engine block), which is I'd say approximately no more than a foot from the radiator, this is off the top of my head, I haven't changed the oil on the 500sl for a little while now. On top of that canister, you will see a nut, I believe it is a 10mm or 12mm I forgot exactly which. Unlike the SL600 you don't need a fancy cup. Unscrew it, it'll take a little bit cause it is a fairly long screw. Just unscrew it until it is completely off. Might be like 10 rorations or so, I don't remember. From there, pull of the screw, set it aside, and remove the cap that the screw was holding down. After removal you will be able to see the oil filter. There will be a little lever, sort of like on a soda can, lift/bend it up and remove filter. Careful as it will be messy, have something prepared to put underneath it to contain the oil. Change the seals that come with your oil filter (at least the ones from the MB dealership have seal, I can't say for off brand ones). And but in new filter.

As for draining the oil, it's pretty much the same proceedure as I described in the other thread for changing the oil on a SL600. 4 screws on bottom to remove the plastic shield (i believe 8mm). Drain plug is on the rear passenger side. Unscrew and watch the oil drip drip drip. Also when replacing the plug be sure to use a NEW washer (which is also included when purchasing a Mercedes oil filter). I believe that when you purchase a mercedes oil filter there will be an extra washer you don't need and I believe it is a silver one.

Perhaps I will do a documented write up on this (car does need an oil change, I think :p ), I'm not sure when or if I do, but it seems like something that individuals are being more interested in.

agentMurdoc

oh and currently the 500SL and the 600SL are using Mobil 1 synthetic.

500 has 150k miles and the 600 has almost 120k. Even though these motors are relatively high mileage, I prefer to use synthetic oils only.

StapleGun

Oil extractor - here's one from West Marine. Griot's Auto has one too....check my previous posts.....it's the only and cleanest way to change oil!
LINK

fredush

Looks good but it only holds 5 quarts,my CLK 320 holds8.5 quarts,are there some larger ones?

rellik

thanks for the help!

the oil extractor from west marine looks reasonable

someone told me that all mercedes within the last 30 years should use 0W-40 Mobil 1 oil, is this correct?

what about fleece oil filters?

X72

This is a pretty comprehensive list of approved MB oils
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
Mobil 1 0W-40 is approved an is relatively easily available in the US.

I bought my filters at www.allgermanparts.com
The fleece filter is for the newer cars with FSS and its super long oil change interval (OCI). Just buy the correct Mann or Hengst filter for you car.

What OCI have you been doing?
What motor oil have you been using?
What climate?
What conditions (all short trip city, all highway averaging 75 mph, etc.)?

There is probably nothing wrong with just doing what you have been doing thus far (the past 97,000 miles).

So if you have been running Castrol GTX 10W-40 and changing every 6 months of 7500 miles for the life of the car, there is an argument to be made to just keep doing the same thing. No, it doesn't meet MB specs. But the ACEA A3 rating is designed to protect the engine if you drive the car at autobahn speeds, not at the sedate 70 to 80 mph we drive on the US interstates.

Good luck with your quest to do your own oil changes!
William
2003 E320

rellik

I have been changing every 5k miles
i think my mechanic has been using 0W-40
the climate in winter is 30-50 degrees, summer is 75-85 degrees around
i do about 60% high speed highway driving and 40% traffic, stop and go

thanks again
Hersh Singh

X72

I am assuming that you are in the USA. Please correct me if my assumption is incorrect.

You could just keep doing what you have been doing so far. Below is an alternate plan.

If you have been using 0W-40 oil in the USA, that means you have likely been using Mobil 1 0W-40, which is the only commonly available 0W-40 oil in the USA. M1 0W-40 is currently selling for about $6 per quart.

If it were my car, I would use Mobil 1 0W-40 which is reasonably available in the USA. You could use Amsoil 5W-40, Schaeffers, Elf Excellium 229.5, Castrol 5W-40 etc. (all fine motor oils), but that requires a bit more legwork on your part.

I would change the oil once a year or 10 to 12 thousand miles (whichever comes first) and do a used oil analysis at that time including TBN to make sure the oil has active additive left. I have used Blackstone labs http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ This is assuming you are using an oil that meets MB 229.3 or 229.5 that are listed in the whnet link I posted earlier.

Good luck.
William
2003 E320

rellik

yes i am in USA

so are you saying that 5k mile intervals is short and that i could extend the intervals?

ill try out the blackstone labs tests after my next change when i am sure about the weight of the oil

thanks
Hersh

dafi129

10/12K miles service interval is fine on a new Merc but not on a 1993 SL.
If you want to keep your engine singing happy songs for a while to come,keep on changing your oil at 5K....Believe me,it is the cheapest investment you'll ever make...

X72

Don't take my word for it. Do what dafi129 says and change the oil and filter at 5000 miles, except do a UOA at that time. You will likely find that the oil is good for extending the serivice to 6 to 7k miles at a minimum. You also may find a problem early that way which would tell you to do even shorter oil change intervals.

You may decide you don't feel comfortable extending the OCI. There is nothing wrong with continuing to do what has worked for you thus far.

Do a Google search for the term BITOG and post your UOA results there where you will get feedback from people who are really into motor oil.

It is personal preference. In my opinion it is overkill to change out Mobil 1 0W-40 at 5k miles unless the engine has a problem. It is the rest of the car (transmission, climate control, electronics, suspension and steering components, all the rubber parts) that falls apart before the engine wears out and needs to be rebuilt.

The point of the synthetic motor oils that meet MB 229.3 and 229.5 (only Mobil 1 0W-40 meets these specs from the Mobil 1 line of oils) is to extend the OCI. At 3 or 5 k miles, it hardly matters what oil you use as long as it is the correct grade for your climate. Hence, all the anecdotal reports you hear about people that say their car lasted forever doing 3k OCI. What is usually also true is that the person who is that concerned about the car to do 3k OCI also drives the car gently when the engine is cold and takes the car in to be serviced regularly for everything else as well as whenever they notice something off with the car (they take it to the mechanic when the coolant temp gauge reads a little higher or lower than usual catching problems early).

Many people are not very concerned about their car; they change the oil when they remember too (not very often), ignore warning lights for months as long as the car keeps running, don't look at any of the gauges except the fuel level, don't check the oil level weekly, etc. The people who do 3k OCI do other things that also figures into the long life of their cars.

William
2003 E320

agentMurdoc

if you want to get critical about the oil grade to use look it up in your owners manuel. I just searched through the manuel for a 91 500SL has recommended grades for temp ranges. There's also a little pamphlet with oil types/brands recommended by MB.

Personally when I went to the local Pep Boy to get some oil and I did not see any Mobil 1 0-40. plenty of 10-30 and 15-50. I atually wanted to try the 0-50 and see how it is just because. Since they didn't have any I just stuck to the 10-30. Its not like these are exotic engines or anything. They just use regular oil the 500E and 400Es share a similar engine as do the e420. What you could do if you really wanted to find out what "proper" oil to use is call your local dealer and ask them what oil type and grade they will use if you were to take your car in for an oil change.

X72

agentMurdoc, if you are interested in finding M1 0W-40, I see it at Wal-Mart and at Autozone, although sometimes they are out of stock. I never see 0W-40 at PepBoys. It is currently priced at about $6 per quart.
You are in a postion to see what oil feels right in your engine. Pick a grade for your climate based on the sheet you mentioned. Monitor oil consumption (too thin and consumption will rise) and fuel economy (thicker oils will lower your fuel economy slightly). How does the engine sound to you with the oil you pick? Consider doing a used oil analysis.

M1 5W-30 and 10W-30 are ACEA A1 (and A5 I think?). M1 0W-40 is ACEA A3. A3 oils have more resistance to shear at high temperatures; an important consideration if you are running the car at Autobahn speeds, but hardly matters in the USA. A reason that MB is currently using M1 0W-40 is because it is designed for long drain intervals (20k to 30k kilometers) and is to be used with a fleece (it is not lambs wool, but a synthetic fiber that I guess reminded the people who made it of fleece) filter also designed for super long drain intervals.

Like I said earlier, if you are following a reasonable oil change interval (5k miles for a conventional oil, 7.5k for a synthetic), it hardly matters what oil you use as long as it is the correct grade for your climate (based on the sheet Agent Murdoc mentioned in his post). You will likely be able to extend the conservative oil change interval I mentioned above based on the information you get from a used oil analysis if you want to go that route.
William
2003 E320

reddog

Hi FREDUSH, go to:

http://www.mityvac.com/

Look at fluid evacuators.
PneumatiVac: p/n 07300, capacity=8.8 liters
Fluid evacutator: p/n 07400, capacity=7.3 liters.

eggburt

I was looking for the European Formula Mobil 1 0W40 and a fleece filter. I found Park Place in Texas

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/parkplac...1trismoto.html

0W40 Mobil One @ $5.15 a quart with $7.50 Shipping. I ordered enough for two oil changes and added two fleece filters. I seemed to be a good price since I have seen the same oil for $1.40 more at a couple of other sites. Can now change oil a comply with 229.5 specs.

Craig

rellik

where did you find the fleece filters on that site?

eggburt

I added it to the comments section while ordering. You can call the 800 number and they will look up the part number for your model.

X72

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...73#post1444973
William
2003 E320