Hi all. I'm a neewbie here so forgive the stupid question. I was looking into purchasing some lowering springs for the r129. I was wondering what I should expect to pay in terms of installation fees from a mechanic. I was quoted $800 a few days ago from a shop in San Francisco. I've lowered cars in the past and they usually charge $100-300 for the install. I realize the r129 is a big car but still, $800 seems really expensive. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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its a lot. and the camber is always off afterwards. i dont remember the cost of mine, but it was not to cheap!Originally Posted by thompson12001
Hi all. I'm a neewbie here so forgive the stupid question. I was looking into purchasing some lowering springs for the r129. I was wondering what I should expect to pay in terms of installation fees from a mechanic. I was quoted $800 a few days ago from a shop in San Francisco. I've lowered cars in the past and they usually charge $100-300 for the install. I realize the r129 is a big car but still, $800 seems really expensive. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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My shop quoted $400 plus alignment ($150) to install Eibach springs...I have not done it yet but will if I decide to keep the car.Originally Posted by thompson12001
Hi all. I'm a neewbie here so forgive the stupid question. I was looking into purchasing some lowering springs for the r129. I was wondering what I should expect to pay in terms of installation fees from a mechanic. I was quoted $800 a few days ago from a shop in San Francisco. I've lowered cars in the past and they usually charge $100-300 for the install. I realize the r129 is a big car but still, $800 seems really expensive. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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thats a great deal!Originally Posted by Lincoln
My shop quoted $400 plus alignment ($150) to install Eibach springs...I have not done it yet but will if I decide to keep the car.
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If you can borrow/rent/buy an internal spring compressor, its really quite easy to change out the springs. Shocks also are easy and can be done in the driveway.
Def a trip to MB for an alignmnet afterwards.
Def a trip to MB for an alignmnet afterwards.
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I just bought a new set of Bilstein's for $355.00 shipped and a new set of H&R Sport springs for and eBay price of $371.00 delivered. I will be using #1 shims up front and #3 buffers in the rear. I was quoted $450-$600 for install less alignment that I will do about a month later when the car settles and I put new rear tires on.
I'm glad it was my favorite Indy that will charge me the $450.00 for the above. He also quoted me $340 to just change the springs.
Note: the H&R springs will drop the car about 1.5" so it's important on older 129's to adjust the position of the 'rear axle limit switches for the roll-over bar' to function properly. Then test the car by driving forward and braking real hard at about 7 MPH to get the roll-bar to accurate. I'll let you find out how to retract the bar after that? Do some reading!
I'm glad it was my favorite Indy that will charge me the $450.00 for the above. He also quoted me $340 to just change the springs.
Note: the H&R springs will drop the car about 1.5" so it's important on older 129's to adjust the position of the 'rear axle limit switches for the roll-over bar' to function properly. Then test the car by driving forward and braking real hard at about 7 MPH to get the roll-bar to accurate. I'll let you find out how to retract the bar after that? Do some reading!
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Do these cares generally require camber kits after lowering? or will a standard alignment usually take care of it?
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I'm glad it was my favorite Indy that will charge me the $450.00 for the above. He also quoted me $340 to just change the springs.
Note: the H&R springs will drop the car about 1.25" so it's important to adjust the position of the 'rear axle limit switches on older 129's for the roll-over bar' to function properly. Then test the car by driving forward and braking real hard at about 7-10 MPH to get the roll-bar to accurate.
I would suggest that you take advantage of a MB Special Dealer priced 'regular alignment' for about $90.00 because of the 1.25" drop. I'm not talking about a car that's been slammed and needs a camber kit.Originally Posted by lynns
I just bought a new set of Bilstein's for $355.00 shipped and a new set of H&R Sport springs for and eBay price of $371.00 delivered. I will be using #1 shims up front and #3 buffers in the rear. I was quoted $450-$600 for install less alignment that I will do about a month later when the car settles with the hardtop on and new rear tires.I'm glad it was my favorite Indy that will charge me the $450.00 for the above. He also quoted me $340 to just change the springs.
Note: the H&R springs will drop the car about 1.25" so it's important to adjust the position of the 'rear axle limit switches on older 129's for the roll-over bar' to function properly. Then test the car by driving forward and braking real hard at about 7-10 MPH to get the roll-bar to accurate.
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I hope you have not paid that much for springs and labor, A fair price is $500 or so, A great price is $420 here in So Cal orange county.Originally Posted by thompson12001
Hi all. I'm a neewbie here so forgive the stupid question. I was looking into purchasing some lowering springs for the r129. I was wondering what I should expect to pay in terms of installation fees from a mechanic. I was quoted $800 a few days ago from a shop in San Francisco. I've lowered cars in the past and they usually charge $100-300 for the install. I realize the r129 is a big car but still, $800 seems really expensive. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Can some one tell me if a 1994 SL320 uses rear spring shims? I'm going to use HR springs and Bilstein B4 in the front and B6 shocks in the rear of my SL320 1994. I see spring shims being used #1 front and #3 or #2 in the rear but I can only find front shims for this car.
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John
Thats because the rear shims are known as BUFFERS.Originally Posted by FATHERTIME
I can only find front shims for this car.John
Please see Rear "Buffer" p/n's
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Thanks for the fast reply
I found the buffers at the site you mentioned this site looks like a good source for my car
I found the buffers at the site you mentioned this site looks like a good source for my car
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I found the buffers at the site you mentioned this site looks like a good source for my car
You might get better pricing and availability at your local Merc Parts Counter and if you want to return something they will usually work with you. Or you may want to use www.oediscountparts.com. Shipping is free if you buy greater than $50.00 and there total pricing w/ ship is better than parts.comOriginally Posted by FATHERTIME
Thanks for the fast replyI found the buffers at the site you mentioned this site looks like a good source for my car
Have you thought about the following parts from the list at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/5653276-post1027.html while your installing new struts and springs?
Strut Mounts (2 each Mercedes-Benz) p/n 1243200473
Strut Bump Stop (2 each) p/n 1293230744
Strut Boot (2 each) p/n 1293230192
Front #1 shim (2 each) p/n 2013210984
Rear #3 buffer (2 each) p/n 2013251144
The above 4 items from your local MB parts counter total about $35.50 + tax.
Always read the "POLICIES>SHIPPING POLICY" fine print and make sure to supply your VIN when ordering online.
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Please consider saving yourself some money by going with B4 (Comfort / Touring Class) shocks ALL the way around. I think you'll enjoy a better ride.Originally Posted by FATHERTIME
I'm going to use HR springs and Bilstein B4 in the front and B6 shocks in the rear of my SL320 1994.
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I can't find this p/n "Rear #3 buffer (2 each) p/n 2013251044" to be listed as a fit on the SL 320, am I missing something?
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I already have the shocks and springs if they're too stiff then at least pretty easy to change compared to springs, i got all 4 from Shock Warehouse for $467.00Originally Posted by lynns
Please consider saving yourself some money by going with B4 (Comfort / Touring Class) shocks ALL the way around. I think you'll enjoy a better ride.
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I already have the shocks and springs if they're too stiff then at least pretty easy to change compared to springs, i got all 4 from Shock Warehouse for $467.00Originally Posted by lynns
Please consider saving yourself some money by going with B4 (Comfort / Touring Class) shocks ALL the way around. I think you'll enjoy a better ride.
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Strut Mounts (2 each Mercedes-Benz) p/n 1243200473
Strut Bump Stop (2 each) p/n 1293230744
Strut Boot (2 each) p/n 1293230192
Front #1 shim (2 each) p/n 2013210984
Rear #3 buffer (2 each) p/n 2013251044
The above 4 items from your local MB parts counter total about $35.50 + tax.
I'm confused on the spring shims, where as I'm using HR springs lowering the rear 1" and front 1.3" the #3 shim is 18mm thats .7" so does that mean I'll only lower the rear .25"?
Strut Bump Stop (2 each) p/n 1293230744
Strut Boot (2 each) p/n 1293230192
Front #1 shim (2 each) p/n 2013210984
Rear #3 buffer (2 each) p/n 2013251044
The above 4 items from your local MB parts counter total about $35.50 + tax.
I'm confused on the spring shims, where as I'm using HR springs lowering the rear 1" and front 1.3" the #3 shim is 18mm thats .7" so does that mean I'll only lower the rear .25"?

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the #3 shim is 18mm thats .7" so does that mean I'll only lower the rear .25"?
Try not to get to hung up on the shim/buffer mm size difference because they are not what lowers the car. They only buffer the ride and level out the car from front to rear by a small fraction of what the total drop is. The H&R springs cause the drop.Originally Posted by FATHERTIME
I'm confused on the spring shims, ...the #3 shim is 18mm thats .7" so does that mean I'll only lower the rear .25"?
Use a #1 shim on the front and #3 buffer on the rear. Trust me that your car will look and ride just fine.
8mm#1-18mm#3 = 10mm = 0.40" difference from front to back
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Use a #1 shim on the front and #3 buffer on the rear. Trust me that your car will look and ride just fine.
8mm#1-18mm#3 = 10mm = 0.40" difference from front to back[/QUOTE]
Ok I have all the parts now, shocks, springs all new shock mount components along with the eight links in the rear plus new sway-bar links. I plan to have it done in a few days, Does anyone know of a good alignment shop for this car in Orange County CA?
8mm#1-18mm#3 = 10mm = 0.40" difference from front to back[/QUOTE]
Ok I have all the parts now, shocks, springs all new shock mount components along with the eight links in the rear plus new sway-bar links. I plan to have it done in a few days, Does anyone know of a good alignment shop for this car in Orange County CA?
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Call for cash pricing and appointment for a Vehicle Alignment Report atOriginally Posted by FATHERTIME
Does anyone know of a good alignment shop for this car in Orange County CA?
Costa Mesa Brakes & Tires
2945 Randolph Ave., Unit C
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714-557-1322
Note: pay attention to your Final Rear Camber. It should be close to -2.0 degrees after your lowering springs are installed.
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The job is done and ready to go for alignment. I guess if I'm using wheel spacers to bring the tires flush with the fenders I need them on the car for the alignment? The rear needs about 36MM spacer and the front needs about 25MM but I'm having trouble finding front spacers. Any help here will be appreciated.
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It sounds like you need the right size ET for your rims instead of spacers. Please see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/3036558-post11.html for the right size offset = ET for the 129.Originally Posted by FATHERTIME
The rear needs about 36MM spacer and the front needs about 25MM but I'm having trouble finding front spacers. Any help here will be appreciated.
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Note: pay attention to your Final Rear Camber. It should be close to -2.0 degrees after your lowering springs are installed.
Can you tell me what the toe should be for the rear? I wound up with camber at -1.9 and -2.2Originally Posted by lynns
Call for cash pricing and appointment for a Vehicle Alignment Report atNote: pay attention to your Final Rear Camber. It should be close to -2.0 degrees after your lowering springs are installed.
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Look at your Alignment Report Specifications.Originally Posted by FATHERTIME
Can you tell me what the toe should be for the rear?
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That's what my car readOriginally Posted by FATHERTIME
I wound up with camber at -1.9 and -2.2
