Hey everyone,

Could someone please help? I have a 1996 SL 320. I have a bad hydraulic leak in rear for roof operation. I'm guessing I need to replace the O rings. Is it possible to fix or do I have to replace?

My next question, is it possible to lower the roof manually? I know how to release above the sun visors but don't know how to release back?

I appreciate your time

Adam

 

the top tool has two working surfaces, a hex "Allen" rod ( 6mm?) and a thin flat open box wrench. the windshield locks have a partial turn (20 degree ?) with the hex. The owners manual and /or the protective bag for the top tool depicts the movement. the top ( hard or rag ) is under pressure and with unlock of the front it will "pop up" and be loose. the open side wrench is for the trunk access lever that is painted red and has an opening in the trunk lining. The tool movement is a lever up, not an unscrewing of a bolt. The rag top can be moved by hand pressure with both front and back coming to a upright position. The box end of the top tool can be used on a chrome button that is on the inside of the roll bar. Then the tonneau cover will be released so the rag top can be folded into the cavity. close the tonneau cover and the car is ready for the hard top.
Lighthouse, Klaus Witt has helped us all understand the top system and longevity of the hydraulic system. It is more than "o" rings and for my money worth repairing all the cylinders. As a business they perform and inform. good luck and where in the world are you?

 

Katoadam,

welcome to the forum! The owner's manual actually does not cover the manual locking and unlocking of the rear in model years '95 to '02. The rear locks are a little harder to access in these cars, but it is still a pretty simple procedure once you know how it's done...

Please check out the following link that should cover all your manual locking and unlocking questions. Manually unlocking the rear of your '96 is covered on page 2: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/maunuallockhardtop.pdf

Please do not fall into the trap of thinking you can replace the OEM cup seals with O-rings. They are the wrong seal for moving parts. The seals that fail on the Mercedes cylinders are cup seals, and they fail because the material degrades over time. The solution is to use cup seals that work as well as Mercedes', but that hold up much longer.

We used to sell our custom made cup seals after "screening" the buyers over the phone, meaning I would try to see if they were likely to get the job done without damaging the cylinders. I was wrong far too often, and the customers had to replace their expensive cylinders after damaging them in the DIY attempt.

We manufacture replacement shafts for most cylinders, but we cannot fix scratches that people put inside the cylinders, and that happens all too often. Needless to say, it costs more to replace a damaged shaft than what we normally charge to rebuild a cylinder.

Here is the sobering math: It costs over $6000 to purchase all cylinders new from the dealer, and the ones that are most easily damaged are also the most expensive cylinders. On average, the chances of you not damaging the cylinders must be lower than 1% per cylinder, even if you had the proper seals available for free, in order to beat the odds and come out ahead of having the full set rebuilt by Top Hydraulics with a 3-year warranty for under $600 for the full set of 11 or 12 cylinders.

We still average a one-day turn around, and our seal material is far superior to OEM seal material, or that of our esteemed competition.

Hope this makes sense,

Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com

 

Thanks so much for all of your information! This helps a lot! Living in Mexico it may take a while to get parts and replace, so being able to do it manually is important.

I appreciate it

Adam

 

Katoadam,

I'm glad this will help you out until you can take care of the hydraulic system.

Please keep in mind that manual release and locking is not very practical for every day operation in model years '95-'02, that repeated manual operation will eventually wear out the locks, and that repeated manual operation can easily damage the trim pieces around the locks.

Lastly, for readers with model years '90 and '91: if your tonneau cover locks, front locks or rear locks are hard to move manually, that is because the old-style piston rings in the locks' cylinders are swelling up and making it very hard to move the locks manually. The result can be flexing shafts hitting sharp parts of the locks, ruining the shafts. We run into that issue almost daily now, and are often forced to replace those shafts. That's an expense you want to avoid. (See attached photo of damage)

Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com

 

I have a 1995 Sl320 and want to replace the cylinders on the top, does anyone know where to get a manual that will show how to R and R these? Thanks

 

Are you talking about the Cylinders above the windshield..? If so, you can repair them really easy, there is only one seal in each one. Tere is a tutorial on youtube to do this...I think the seal kit is around 50 bucks. Good Luck

 

Yes I am ordering a seal kit for all the cylinders but then saw that some were available to just put in. If I can't get the replacements then I will rebuild myself. The Mercedes shop said if I fix on I have to fix all in the system or the others will blow. This sounds off to me as I understand doing them two at a time for balance but if they work independently I don't see why the would all have to be done. Especially since I got the back of the top to release, the bonnet to open just the top releases would not let go... and started leaking oil down the door post. (those will get replace) any advice is appreciated.

 

No..you do not have to replace all of them..only the ones that are bad.