Hi, I've started to install a Clarion indash cd stereo and a replacement power antennae. The stereo has RCA output jacks as well as the typical harness plugs. It looks like I'm needing an antennae jack adapter or two (the second one for the connection to the new power antennae). Is this stereo going to connect to the amp under the cargo shelf in the back or is it better to run new wires to the speakers? Thanks, Joe.

 

I purchased a Clarion unit from Crutchfield. (Pop up screen et al.) They included a connector that was "plug and play" for radio, CD. The power antennae was not rewired, but included in the multiwire connection. Only additional wiring involved the iPod and USB input ports. ( that takes a lot of wire stuffing to get it back into the single DIN opening!!! The Bose amp still worked and no new rewire for the speakers.
I am not certain my experience is a parallel for you. Good luck

 

I bought a wiring adapter designed for a VW. Two of the three radio plugs connect to it and I suspect the third one is for the carphoneand CD changer but I really need to find a wiring diagram to get this done. So far only the ground ,dash light, battery power and acc/ign wires are hooked up and I need to reverse the last two . I want to get the factory amp to work as it has a built in subwoofer box and it saves me from running new speaker wires. I'm also baffled by the power antenna on this car. With all radio wiring disconnected when I plug the antenna motor into the harness (just the motor,no mast or ground strap) and it just keeps running. What stops the motor from running on the factory system? I was planning on installing an aftermarket power ant. that I already have but it would require building a sunken antennae mounting tube as seen on custom cars from the 1950's, lol. Thanks, Joe.

 

Heres and update on the stereo install for anyone following this thread or looking for aftermarket stereo info. I switched the VW adapter plug's full time power and acc/ign output terminals in the plug housing along with relocating the power antennae / power amp teminal (its the MB small blue wire labelled in charts as power antennae wire) so now the color coding between the Clarion stereo and the adapter harness line up. The sound is good although I still have two problems. The driver's door woofer doesnt work and if I turn the volume up too loud the amp cuts out. Is it OK to connect the Clarion's speaker output wires straight to the power amp input wires (Clarion rated at 45WX4, instructions say to use front speaker wires in a two speaker system, the MB amp on this car has four input wires, ) or should there be some sort of matching/limiting device installed inbetween? One interesting thing I noticed when doing my speaker hook ups was that the amp only works right if you connect the Clarion's speaker wires one way. Normally I always try reversing one set of wires to put the left and right sides in phase to get the best bass response. It worked fine just matching the Clarion color coding to the adapter harness. The Clarion also has RCA output jacks but there was no sound when I hooked them to the power amp. http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-rad...-Connector.htm This link was useful. My power antennae motor runs for a time (after a bit of a delay) after I turn the radio on and again when I turn off the ign. switch and remove the key. Does the antennae motor module work on a timer? I didnt know the radio stays on as long as the key is still in the switch and in the off position...kind of a nice feature. While seaching online for aftermarket stereos being installed in Mercedes I found one person who installed a manual power antennae switch to keep the antennae from powering up since he rarely listens to the radio. I had the same plan but was told it would affect resale value. I doubt it would be hard undo this modification if I have to sell the car someday, then again one site states that replacing the factory sound system reduces resale value...that would depend on who's buying the car I suppose. Any comments appreciated, Joe.

 

well about the value of the car with those modifications. if you ever replace a stock radio it will effect the cars value. this is because by the time these cars are 40 years old collectors will be looking to buy them. and they want everything 100% stock. there is a smaller market for modded cars, but it is smaller then the collector market. so replacing the radio would hurt your value to a collector.

as for the antennae switch, it is easy to take that mod out, but to put the switch in you drilled a hole in the wood, how do you get that out? well you would have to order new wood, it isn't cheap.

now, for radio quality, i have talked to Mercedes and Bose, (keep in mind this is probably biased the), and they said that there are special drivers in the radio head unit its self that other radios don't have. that is why you cant change anything other then base/treble and balance. Bose said everything else was done internally to get the best possible sound from when it was set up in the factory. keep in mind Mercedes and Bose could just be saying that because they want you to spend 1000 on a new radio.

hope that helps you a bit. (i dont know about the wiring and stuff like that, sorry)

 

Does anyone know the price and availability of a replacement Bose door speaker? I just need the woofer, the tweeter sounds fine.

 

well you can only get the Bose speakers from 2 places. Mercedes or Bose. Bose doesn't do Mercedes speakers anymore so they are a custom order thing now. i asked Bose about it before. they said go through Mercedes and they will order it from Bose. but try parting one out from a broken R129. it will save you tons. Bose is expensive.

 

Here is a quote from another thread regarding Bose speaker replacements. The original thread is "WTB Bose door speakers" you should be able to get further info there. I'm looking to replace my front speakers too. Hope this helps. Tabasco Benz

Quote:
Originally Posted by Catterman
NEW SPEAKER INFO!!! (I took this from someone else, but called and got two new ones for my car for $83. Just be sure to tell her that you have a 98 or older SL, as I think the car has to be 10 years old or older to get this price. I got both of mine installed in less then 10 minutes, all you have to do it take off that one lower screw and the mesh speaker cover slides forward then pops right off. You can reach all the torque bits then. I believe it is a T20 size too.)


Water destroyed my passenger door lower speaker in my 1995 SL500 and I saw in other posts that you can purchase the replacement directly from Bose. I contacted Bose via email and Bose responded:

"In answer to your question, we can provide replacement speaker(s) 171800 for your Bose Music System and the cost is $40.00 plus tax and shipping. Please contact our Consumer Support Line at 508-766-9522 with part number off the component you need to order over the phone with a credit card.

Hours of Operation: Monday – Friday 8:00 AM to 3:30 PM EST
Acceptable Payment Cards : Visa, MC, Discover, American Express (PLEASE DO NOT SEND THIS INFORMATION THROUGH EMAIL THIS IS NOT A SECURE ENVIRONMENT)Thank you for contacting Bose Corporation.
Patty Bolack
Consumer Relations Division"

I called the number and placed the order today. The total with shipping costs for one speaker was $43.00. It should be here in two days. The female who took my order said model number 171800 for my vehicle is no longer produced, but the direct replacement is model 133619.
Thanks so much for this information. I just called Patty Bolack at Bose and was able to order a replacement speaker for the passenger door of my 1997 SL 500. The speaker will be here tomorrow. It was $43.20 for the one speaker versus a quote of $528 for the entire speaker assembly from the Mercedes dealer.

 

Sorry but my quote in previous post is actually from Benzworld.org forum. Sorry about the confusion but the appearance of the site is similar. But info is great on both sites. TB

 

The only difference between a BOSE system and a typical car stereo is that BOSE has an ohm load of 6 ohms at the ampolifier and most mobile audio has an ohm load of 4 ohms at the ampolifier. Lots of vehicles come with a BOSE system. It really doesn't matter which source unit you install. As long as you make sure the appropriate wires are connected (for example RF+ and RF- on the head unit to RF+ and RF- in the car,) the BOSE amp will process the signal nonetheless. If you have the means, by passing the BOSE amplifiers altogether and installing a 4-channel or a 6-channel amplifier is always going to sound better and allow you to leave the stock wiring intact. If you do not use a head unit with pre-amp outputs, you can always buy a low-level converter for under $20- and tap into one factory speaker to convert the signal going to a speaker into a useable RCA output.

 

I got new speakers did not go whit bose they r old get some 2ohms jbls