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Hey guys, I’m Phil W. and I live in NC. I’m the newcomer to this awesome website that has so many knowledgeable people to hopefully gain information from. I have read from so many different posts and comments but I haven’t seen any information on exactly what my car is doing yet. I’m not saying it’s not there, but I have not found anything yet. So Please Help me if you can. My car is a 1998 SL600, V12, R129 and the suspension system is the hydraulic type and it’s now pushing large amounts of Hydraulic Fluid back out the top of the reservoir. Of course when this happens the car sits down on the floor or ground. Have y’all got any ideas as to what could be going on and causing this? I’m hopeful that I didn’t damage the system even worse. But I’m afraid I may have damaged the pump or the system because this all happened while I was trying to get the car back home. The car would lift itself back up if I clicked on the lift button inside the car. And I only had about a mile to go to get it back home so I hit the button roughy 5 or 6 times to keep the car high enough off the ground to drive it home. It worked and I got home but the car basically collapsed and dumped more fluid on the floor when I got in my garage. The car did sit down on the front tires, but I made sure my tires were straight so I don’t think it bent my fenders, and I immediately jacked the car up using the (jack up holes) behind the front wheels using a very large bolt going into those holes that then enabled me to use my floor jack? I don’t know what the (jack up holes) are properly called, but it worked and I put jack stands under the car because I couldn’t get a floor jack nor the MB Car Jack under the car. The car is resting on the Jack Stands now and I’m not sure which direction to go. I have not even cranked the car since all this happened. I’m seriously considering completely doing away with the hydraulic system entirely and going with a conventional strut or shock and spring system however that appears to be a pretty big job as well as changing the car from what it was meant to be?
What are your thoughts and ideas about what has happened to cause the hydraulic fluid to be pushed out the reservoir?
And what’s your thoughts about switching systems entirely, to Bilstein conventional struts, shocks and springs ?
Thanks in advance guys. I really appreciate any advice and your thoughts to help me get through this problem.
Phil in NC
PS; I tried posting a few pictures of my car but I couldn’t figure out how to do, without the pictures being huge?
Hey guys, I’m Phil W. and I live in NC. I’m the newcomer to this awesome website that has so many knowledgeable people to hopefully gain information from. I have read from so many different posts and comments but I haven’t seen any information on exactly what my car is doing yet. I’m not saying it’s not there, but I have not found anything yet. So Please Help me if you can. My car is a 1998 SL600, V12, R129 and the suspension system is the hydraulic type and it’s now pushing large amounts of Hydraulic Fluid back out the top of the reservoir. Of course when this happens the car sits down on the floor or ground. Have y’all got any ideas as to what could be going on and causing this? I’m hopeful that I didn’t damage the system even worse. But I’m afraid I may have damaged the pump or the system because this all happened while I was trying to get the car back home. The car would lift itself back up if I clicked on the lift button inside the car. And I only had about a mile to go to get it back home so I hit the button roughy 5 or 6 times to keep the car high enough off the ground to drive it home. It worked and I got home but the car basically collapsed and dumped more fluid on the floor when I got in my garage. The car did sit down on the front tires, but I made sure my tires were straight so I don’t think it bent my fenders, and I immediately jacked the car up using the (jack up holes) behind the front wheels using a very large bolt going into those holes that then enabled me to use my floor jack? I don’t know what the (jack up holes) are properly called, but it worked and I put jack stands under the car because I couldn’t get a floor jack nor the MB Car Jack under the car. The car is resting on the Jack Stands now and I’m not sure which direction to go. I have not even cranked the car since all this happened. I’m seriously considering completely doing away with the hydraulic system entirely and going with a conventional strut or shock and spring system however that appears to be a pretty big job as well as changing the car from what it was meant to be?
What are your thoughts and ideas about what has happened to cause the hydraulic fluid to be pushed out the reservoir?
And what’s your thoughts about switching systems entirely, to Bilstein conventional struts, shocks and springs ?
Thanks in advance guys. I really appreciate any advice and your thoughts to help me get through this problem.
Phil in NC
PS; I tried posting a few pictures of my car but I couldn’t figure out how to do, without the pictures being huge?
Start by checking the height control rods rear and front, attached to sway bars. A possible root cause to your symptoms could be loose rod end - making the ADS control unit think your car is too high?
Retaining your car's originality is for sure a better idea. ADS II is a nice and reliable system, when maintained and working as designed.
The pump, control system is not holding the pressure. Several causes possible. rebuilding the hydraulic manifold is possible. replacing the pump that handles two functions may not be needed, but check it function. a OBDII check is always a good start.
Top Hydraulics in Oregon may be able to help diagnose and certainly rebuild the manifold MBGUS a member of another "world " forum has blogged about the suspension system and wiring issues and is a wealth of information Bobterry99 is also an excellent resource
I have not nor will not remove standard items from a car, ( want original build sheet specs )
When the system is working, It is outstanding and note worthy from the non adaptive suspension. With that said several in the site have abandon the hydraulics because of cost and ride.
Keep it operational and don't just change but repair as directed by a properly diagnosed process These parts are expensive so rebuild is a lower cost option!
Good luck with your new toy
Start by checking the height control rods rear and front, attached to sway bars. A possible root cause to your symptoms could be loose rod end - making the ADS control unit think your car is too high?
Retaining your car's originality is for sure a better idea. ADS II is a nice and reliable system, when maintained and working as designed.
Good luck!
Hey Pazo!
I hope I’m responding back to you correctly? This is my first time trying to respond. Thanks for your response and I plan on working on my car a little tomorrow so I’ll get under it and do some measuring and checking different things that you suggested. I appreciate it big guy
Start by checking the height control rods rear and front, attached to sway bars. A possible root cause to your symptoms could be loose rod end - making the ADS control unit think your car is too high?
Retaining your car's originality is for sure a
better idea. ADS II is a nice and reliable system, when maintained and working as designed.
Good luck!
Originally Posted by SRHsl600
The pump, control system is not holding the pressure. Several causes possible. rebuilding the hydraulic manifold is possible. replacing the pump that handles two functions may not be needed, but check it function. a OBDII check is always a good start.
Top Hydraulics in Oregon may be able to help diagnose and certainly rebuild the manifold MBGUS a member of another "world " forum has blogged about the suspension system and wiring issues and is a wealth of information Bobterry99 is also an excellent resource
I have not nor will not remove standard items from a car, ( want original build sheet specs )
When the system is working, It is outstanding and note worthy from the non adaptive suspension. With that said several in the site have abandon the hydraulics because of cost and ride.
Keep it operational and don't just change but repair as directed by a properly diagnosed process These parts are expensive so rebuild is a lower cost option!Good luck with your new toy
Hi SDHSL600,
Thank you so much for the great suggestions. However I still need your help? You mentioned 2 guys or places that really know their MB’s? Bobterry99 and MBGus, are they on this webpage or do they have their own websites? I’m not sure how this website works so I don’t know how to find them?
Also, I will plug in my OBDIl and hopefully get some readings tomorrow. I did not know about the place in Oregon and thanks for letting me know. I’m hoping I can get the car to lift itself back up when I attempt to work on it tomorrow. The hydraulic reservoir is showing FULL, but there’s no way it can be based on how much it pumped out on my garage floor. I did crank the car yesterday to be sure the battery was still holding a charge and hopefully I’d be able to hear the Pump come on and I thought I was hearing the Pump but I did not Click On the Button by or under the Headlight Switch to try to lift the car. I will try all this tomorrow unless you’ve got another suggestion to get the car off the ground so I can get it on a Roll Back. I’m not sure how it could be towed or put on a roll back right now?
I have a 98 SL600 as well. On this year of car, the OBDII will only give you limited emissions info. You have to use the 38 pin for the whole car. Have you been adding fluid lately? if so you may have shot accumulators and no fluid is really moving. Check Victors website at restoreyourmercedes.com. He has a video on rebuilding the pump. It's mainly o rings. With these cars increasing in value, keep it original. I don't have fluid coming back on me, but my left front sags badly when it sits. I am replacing the accumulator, I will let you know how that works out. If you want to check the accumulators there are videos out there on how to do it. But basically use something soft with a blunt end. Once you have the center line in removed. Gently put it in, if it goes in 3 or four inches, the accumulator is shot.
I have a 98 SL600 as well. On this year of car, the OBDII will only give you limited emissions info. You have to use the 38 pin for the whole car. Have you been adding fluid lately? if so you may have shot accumulators and no fluid is really moving. Check Victors website at restoreyourmercedes.com. He has a video on rebuilding the pump. It's mainly o rings. With these cars increasing in value, keep it original. I don't have fluid coming back on me, but my left front sags badly when it sits. I am replacing the accumulator, I will let you know how that works out. If you want to check the accumulators there are videos out there on how to do it. But basically use something soft with a blunt end. Once you have the center line in removed. Gently put it in, if it goes in 3 or four inches, the accumulator is shot.
Hey White500SL,
Thanks for your input, advice and comments regarding this mess I’ve got or had. And I agree with ya and I know what you’re saying is absolutely the truth. I hate to admit to you or anyone else, but I finally gave up and chose a different route entirely. I had the car towed to Strutmasters last week. They are doing the R&D on it now. I am keeping all the original parts, both good and bad just in case I ever sell the car, so that it can be put back to original equipment. I’m not sure anyone will want to get an update after doing this, but I’ll likely post it anyway. I was just at my whits end and seriously frustrated with a suspension that I could never totally be confident in. Thanks for the website link and the other information you posted about.
Thanks for your input, advice and comments regarding this mess I’ve got or had. And I agree with ya and I know what you’re saying is absolutely the truth. I hate to admit to you or anyone else, but I finally gave up and chose a different route entirely. I had the car towed to Strutmasters last week. They are doing the R&D on it now. I am keeping all the original parts, both good and bad just in case I ever sell the car, so that it can be put back to original equipment. I’m not sure anyone will want to get an update after doing this, but I’ll likely post it anyway. I was just at my whits end and seriously frustrated with a suspension that I could never totally be confident in. Thanks for the website link and the other information you posted about.
Phil
Hi, I see this is old. I am familiar with strutmasters and curious what you ended up doing for the car.
I would say the wires to the valve block Y36/6 have lost their insulation and were causing the 4 Ripa valves to open sporadically. If the OP would choose to inspect the valve block wiring, he would probably find that this is the only thing wrong with the ADS II. Just open the electrical connector block near the passenger side strut tower and take a peek. Bear in mind that none of the wires are colored green.
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