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Hello everyone.
I have a 1998 SL600 and until recently, the stalk would return to its neutral position after the completion of a turn.
At some point, the collar (ring in which the stalk is mounted) began to loosen and rotate slightly around the steering column.
Immediately after that, the stalk stopped centering on its own.
I don't mind doing most of the jobs that are required in order to keep her on the road but removing the steering wheel is something that I really don't relish doing.
If any of you have done this, how difficult is it and what do you do to ensure that you don't kill the airbag?
Lastly, the high beam works but pulling the stalk towards me no longer flashes the high beams.
Are these issues related?
Any help from someone with experience will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance -
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Most likely you need the stalk removed and replaced. Your mercedes dealer still has them, I would buy from the delaership. My -89 W201 is on it's way out and does not high beam flash anymore but everything else works. Also, I refinished the decals so it looks brand new so not inclined to change it. I do have a dealer new stalk in my arsenal and will change it when I get a chance.
In your case, this is what I would do:
(1) Buy a new stalk
(2) Do not remove your wheel just yet (more on this later)
(3) Unplug your stalk connector under the dash. It maybe in a spot that is very hard to reach, mine is.
(4) plug in the new stalk and make sure all the functions work properly with the new stalk. This would eliminate all the other possible problems like relay failure, etc.
(5) Now you are ready to install.
You should unplug the battery when you do the electrical work always.
Don't be afraid of removing the steering wheel. With the battery terminals removed you can not deploy airbags or cause other problems.
BTW, that airbag is most likely not operational after 35 years. I doubt mine is.
If you are afraid, find an equivalent W201/W124/W129/W126 near you in a junk yard. Practice the steering wheel removal there with no worries.
That is what I did a few years back when I replaced my broken cruise control stalk.
If the steering wheel was never replaced it takes a considerable torque to replace the locking nut. That is because not only is it heavily torqued but it also has locktite on it.
You have to mark the orientation of the wheel in relation to the column so you do this only once.
You will need a 1/2 inch socket for this job. I seared of my 3/8 inch socket right off in my first try at the junk yard. Not sure if an electric impact gun will work I did not have one at the time.
But when you do yours (not the junk yard one) I would encourage someone to hold the wheel when you apply the force and not rely on the locking mechanism. You do not want to damage that locking mechanism on your car.
But first go thru steps 1-5 above and make sure you are good electrically. You might consider changing the cruise control at the same time.
The bracket of the lever needs to be adjusted. If the bracket screw is loose, the automatic reset will no longer work. There is a measure for this in the WIS that has to be set very precisely. To remove the cover, a Phillips head screw hidden by the instrument cluster must be removed. So that needs to be expanded beforehand.
As stated, I've been concerned about what removing the steering wheel might entail.
Your suggestion regarding trying out a new stalk before undertaking this process sounds like experience and I really appreciate your taking the time to lay it out for me.
I'll price the new stalk and give it a go.
Unfortunately, there aren't any junk yards around here that will let me practice on their cars but I think that with your advice, I feel confident that once I can get to that stage, I can get a cheater bar long enough to remove that nut.
Lastly, thanks for the advice on not relying on the steering wheel lock. I can taste the tears that I'd shed if I snapped that mechanism whilst fixing another problem.
I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Respectfully,
-jlc-
I'm learning something everyday about this car even though I've had it for a decade.
As you've no doubt seen in my reply to another helpful owner, I'm grateful for those of you that take the time to help a stranger.
Those things aren't lost on me.
I'll take your advice and look for that adjustment when I start on this project.
Before disconnecting the battery, adjust the steering wheel all the way to the rear and in the middle of the up/down travel. Same goes for anything else electrical you want to position BEFORE the battery is disconnected.
The drop feature of the windows won't work with the battery disconnected, so drop the windows at least half way. If you leave them up, then the doors won't shut. Position the seats.
When you disconnect/remove the air bag, and you reconnect the battery (for any reason), you will trip the SRS system and you will have to reset it.
When breaking the steering wheel center bolt loose, try to also immobilize the steering wheel and not depend on the self locking column.
The bracket of the lever needs to be adjusted. If the bracket screw is loose, the automatic reset will no longer work. There is a measure for this in the WIS that has to be set very precisely. To remove the cover, a Phillips head screw hidden by the instrument cluster must be removed. So that needs to be expanded beforehand.
Hello - I have the same issue as described so am interested in your post. Can you please elaborate as the workshop manual I have seen does not mention any adjustment of a bracket. Basically the stalk is secured with three screws and these do not offer any adjustment.
can you perhaps post the details of the WIS?
Last edited by Carrera-GT; 08-19-2024 at 04:31 AM.
08-17-2023, 08:40 PM
