houdaman

Hey guys,

When your roof is CLOSED and the trunk flaps are sitting tight with tension against the trunk lid, what is the cause of that tension??

Basically me and a boardmember were removing my trunk liner, and heard a big snap noise while trying to manuver the liner out, then found that it does not sit tight on the trunklid now. Is out by about 1/2inch. Top opens and closes still.

Racin_fool

well you are lucky that the top still works.. usually when those flaps don't sit tight against the inside of the trunk lid, the switches don't get triggered and the top stops working..

what happened is that up until recently, MB used a non-reinforced holder that the flap mechanism goes through.. Inside of it is a gear and a slide rail for the flaps. When in use, the mechanism creates a good deal of tension and starts to bend or open up a gap along where this holder for the flap and where that bolts onto the trunk lid. When that gap gets large enough or if someone inadvertently pulls on the flap it pops to the next position on that gear and that's where the slack comes from.

There is a bulletin out for replacement of these and it's not hard to do.. I'll try to get the bulletin number and a part number for you tomorrow at work.

VendettaMB

Can it be pushed hard back to the first spot/gear?!

BlackonBlack

The answer is no, but what you can do is that you can take apart the rectangular box in the trunk that contains the gear and rack and move it back into position. This is the box in which both cables meet in the middleof your trunk lid. But you may have a bigger problem than that. The gear is made of cast iron, and anytime the rack slips on it, it puts tremendous pressure on it and it will crack. Don't ask how I know it, suffice it to say, I'v got a brand new setup inlcuding gear and rack, cables, and flaps.
On the other hand, you can leave it and use the top with the loose trunk flap. But the flap will get looser to a point it stops triggering the next switch in the closing or opening process. Hope this helps, all the above spoken from experience.

mikeblah

is this fix for when both flaps are sloppy or just one? I have one flap that gets loose from time to time. i can give the adjustment nut a 1/8" turn and it will stay tight for a hundred miles or so. i read somewhere there was a kit for this, but haven't been able to find it.

thanks for the info-

BlackonBlack

I've tried using the adjustment nut befire I began taking things apart. It didn't work for me, in fact it will affect the flap on the other side. I came to a point where adjusting it to it's maximum and the flap was still loose.
Apparently there is a kit for this, I too have seen it months ago..

mikeblah

finally broke down and just took it apart this afternoon and fixed it.

when i removed the flap (3 nuts) and then separated the gear assembly (2 torx or a flat head screwdriver) i noticed that the gear attached to the flap was not as close as it needed to be to the sliding gear that is attached to the actuator.

since there is no adjustment (it actually looks like the housing could have been flattened - maybe it has a little curve, but i didn't want to hammer on it), i cut a thin piece of plastic to fit and slipped it under the flat sliding gear to get it closer to the flap's round gear.

anyway, bolted it back on and checked to make sure it matched the other side's position. the first time i was a tooth off, so just loosened the 2 torx a bit and gave it a gentle click and tightened it back up & bolted it on. closed the roof, opened it, then slightly adjusted it to match the other side and it's a done deal. before, the teeth were barely grabbing and adjusting it didn't do much it anything.

i was expecting to see to worn gears, but all of the teeth looked fine on mine. the teeth are so deep that even if they were a bit word, there is a lot of meat left on them if you can get the gears close enough.

so, i should have done this months ago. hope this helps somebody with a sagging flap. i would have taken pictures, but all of a sudden i was done! haha

toddwess

Hey, mikeblah, would you mind taking a quick shot of the 3 nuts you removed to get to the gear assembly? I have this problem with my driver side flap, but it hangs down so much, that the switch never gets closed, and I can not operate my top at all.
Thanks,
Todd

mikeblah

No problem, here you go:

TTown88

Hello, I have this same problem on my SL. I bought the kit and I tried to install it but I cant figure out how to get past step #7 which is removing the toothed rack from the mounting plate and the mounting plate from the Bowden cable. I ended up twisting up my Bowden cable and it looks damaged now but Im not sure.

How do you remove the Bowden cable from the toothed rack and mounting plate?

ttdang123

Here is another posting on the subject with pics that might help?

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...y-fix-diy.html

TTown88

I think this does help a little, from what I can see it appears it doesnt disconnect and youre expected to just pull the toothed rack somehow through the mounting plate. In other words, the toothed rack remains connected to the Bowden cable throughout the process?



Im now considering just purchasing everything and replacing it rather than repairing it, Ill look at it again but I dont get it

TTown88

Ill take a picture of where Im at with the twisted up Bowden cable and toothed rack (with attached mounting plate) hanging from it in my trunk

purefct

I found the same thread as ttdang123
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...l?#post5386705

It's an awesome proceedure! I ordered the part from parts.com, cost $48.99 with CA tax and shipping When you order it says Qty 1 but you are getting two brackets in the order. Took me 25 min on first side (reading, thinking, tool collection), then less than 10 for the second!

The stronger brackets P/N 2307500111 are all you need! I inspected the ones I removed and there was a slight bend in them, allowing the gears to slip!