SL/R230: ABC to Coilovers conversion: The Ultimate FAQ
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 450
Likes: 34
From: Florida
W140, R230
In Ontario, Canada -
I’m about to start coilover conversion tomorrow! Couple of questions for everyone here -
1. Do you need to loop ABC pump if you plug the lines?
2. I’m thinking of converting to power steering pump only, but I’ll see how well I do with the conversion (Using Hiro Performance Coilovers) so here is the question, Can I drive the car a hundred yards without capping the quick connects?
3. For working without a lift, are people jacking up one wheel at a time or is it best to jack up one side, or the entire back/front?
Thank you in advance -
Jonathan
I’m about to start coilover conversion tomorrow! Couple of questions for everyone here -
1. Do you need to loop ABC pump if you plug the lines?
2. I’m thinking of converting to power steering pump only, but I’ll see how well I do with the conversion (Using Hiro Performance Coilovers) so here is the question, Can I drive the car a hundred yards without capping the quick connects?
3. For working without a lift, are people jacking up one wheel at a time or is it best to jack up one side, or the entire back/front?
Thank you in advance -
Jonathan
1) What do you mean by capping the quick connects? IIRC on all 4 corners there are quick disconnect lines that should not leak once disconnected.
2) I would suggest to find a place around you where they rent a lift hourly or something like that. It may help a lot. The downside is that if you work slowly (like I do because I don't rush) it may cost $$.
PS: I have a V12 and I'd like to know how to loop the ABC portion of the tandem pump because something tells me that fitting a PS pump (like VVK or something else) may be a small project of its own and my experience tells me that it's better to do one step at a time. So if looping can be done easily then I'd like to do looping first.
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 42
2003 S430 , 2002 CL500 , 2007 S550, 2003 Yukon Denali XL
In Ontario, Canada -
I’m about to start coilover conversion tomorrow! Couple of questions for everyone here -
1. Do you need to loop ABC pump if you plug the lines?
2. I’m thinking of converting to power steering pump only, but I’ll see how well I do with the conversion (Using Hiro Performance Coilovers) so here is the question, Can I drive the car a hundred yards without capping the quick connects?
3. For working without a lift, are people jacking up one wheel at a time or is it best to jack up one side, or the entire back/front?
Thank you in advance -
Jonathan
I’m about to start coilover conversion tomorrow! Couple of questions for everyone here -
1. Do you need to loop ABC pump if you plug the lines?
2. I’m thinking of converting to power steering pump only, but I’ll see how well I do with the conversion (Using Hiro Performance Coilovers) so here is the question, Can I drive the car a hundred yards without capping the quick connects?
3. For working without a lift, are people jacking up one wheel at a time or is it best to jack up one side, or the entire back/front?
Thank you in advance -
Jonathan
www . Goldelementautoworks . com
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 8
From: Toronto, Ontario
2003 sl500
I wish you would’ve purchased Silver’s Neomax. 😢Anyways…..I don’t loop them. I remove them….the pump, that is. I prefer installing the standard pump. Regarding the plugs, they will leak slowly as gravity and residual fluid moves it around in the lines. They are quick release connectors that do not self close. They are open lines when disconnected. So you need plugs or remove the lines and bleed out whatever is left in place. If you don’t mind oil drip for awhile, then don’t worry too much. I do all of my conversions on the floor with jacks. One corner at a time. At the most, I lift one whole side up, drivers or passengers at a time. Use Jack and two Jack stands. Visit my website for videos and more tips.
www . Goldelementautoworks . com
www . Goldelementautoworks . com
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 42
2003 S430 , 2002 CL500 , 2007 S550, 2003 Yukon Denali XL
Hey! I’m a huge fan of your channel!!!!!! Thank you so much for your reply. I’m honoured. I’ll definitely reach out to you on Power steering pump. One more quick question, I’ve scoured the forums looking for additional jack stand points and can’t find anything. So obviously there’s the point at each wheel, but where else?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 450
Likes: 34
From: Florida
W140, R230
I wish you would’ve purchased Silver’s Neomax. 😢Anyways…..I don’t loop them. I remove them….the pump, that is. I prefer installing the standard pump. Regarding the plugs, they will leak slowly as gravity and residual fluid moves it around in the lines. They are quick release connectors that do not self close. They are open lines when disconnected. So you need plugs or remove the lines and bleed out whatever is left in place. If you don’t mind oil drip for awhile, then don’t worry too much. I do all of my conversions on the floor with jacks. One corner at a time. At the most, I lift one whole side up, drivers or passengers at a time. Use Jack and two Jack stands. Visit my website for videos and more tips.
www . Goldelementautoworks . com
www . Goldelementautoworks . com
1) This PS pump on your website it says V12 SL600: https://www.goldelementautoworks.com...00-2-1l-diesel
Please could you confirm it will fit 03-08 SL600/SL65?
2) What is the difference between this pump and the one that VVK sells? Here is VVK's one: https://www.vvkusa.com/products/v12-...5-s600-s65-amg
I see VVK's one doesn't have a tank and it seems they have custom mount, but I'm not sure what else is different.
3) BC racing coilovers J-05-BR for 03-06 E55/CLS55 on your website it says Front Spring Rate = 16k Rear Spring Rate = 15k while BC racing website says Default spring rates: F - 12KG | R - 17KG. Please could you double check this info.
Thank you.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 8
From: Toronto, Ontario
2003 sl500
Thank you for watching my content….much appreciated! Regarding the Jack points……you can lift the front of the car (both wheels) up……if you look about 1.5’ (feet) back from the front bumper, center. There is a black rubber block Jack point. If the rubber is missing, there’s a metal joint/cross member underneath the missing rubber block. Also in the rear, both sides…..there are two big metal Jack points. One in front and rear of each wheel. Then the obvious (4) between the (4) wheels.
FRONT STRUT BOLT WON’T COME OUT! So, my struts are all failing so I bought a pickle fork, but I’m working off floor jacks and can’t get any clearance to swing hammer at it.
I also tried the “Mercedessoursce” shocking the control arm by swinging a hammer at it. So, same issue, can’t really get a good swing, so even though I’m using a 3lbs hammer, all the swings didn’t do anything.
So… here’s my plan, I think. Raise the car up a few inches higher and cut the pickle fork shorter so I can swing the hammer at it. Also wonder if I should get a thinner pickle fork?
any suggestions here?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 406
Likes: 137
From: Houston, TX
2005 SL600
FRONT STRUT BOLT WON’T COME OUT! So, my struts are all failing so I bought a pickle fork, but I’m working off floor jacks and can’t get any clearance to swing hammer at it.
I also tried the “Mercedessoursce” shocking the control arm by swinging a hammer at it. So, same issue, can’t really get a good swing, so even though I’m using a 3lbs hammer, all the swings didn’t do anything.
So… here’s my plan, I think. Raise the car up a few inches higher and cut the pickle fork shorter so I can swing the hammer at it. Also wonder if I should get a thinner pickle fork?
any suggestions here?
I also tried the “Mercedessoursce” shocking the control arm by swinging a hammer at it. So, same issue, can’t really get a good swing, so even though I’m using a 3lbs hammer, all the swings didn’t do anything.
So… here’s my plan, I think. Raise the car up a few inches higher and cut the pickle fork shorter so I can swing the hammer at it. Also wonder if I should get a thinner pickle fork?
any suggestions here?
I got mine apart with a 4 pound sledge and . It took a lot of hits, and it's really frustrating because there is no percievable movement of the ball joint at all until it just pops completely apart.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 389
Likes: 113
From: Seattle, WA
SL500
FRONT STRUT BOLT WON’T COME OUT! So, my struts are all failing so I bought a pickle fork, but I’m working off floor jacks and can’t get any clearance to swing hammer at it.
I also tried the “Mercedessoursce” shocking the control arm by swinging a hammer at it. So, same issue, can’t really get a good swing, so even though I’m using a 3lbs hammer, all the swings didn’t do anything.
So… here’s my plan, I think. Raise the car up a few inches higher and cut the pickle fork shorter so I can swing the hammer at it. Also wonder if I should get a thinner pickle fork?
any suggestions here?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 8
From: Toronto, Ontario
2003 sl500
Subsequent to making use of an expansion tool whilst helping a forum member with their coilover conversion a gentleman noticed us working under the front end of the car and heard us speaking about the difficulty of releasing the ball joint. He mentioned that he used to work at an import shop years ago and their secret to quickly getting the joints to release took less than 5 minutes and zero muscle power or frustration. Sensing he was simply angling for a "donation" we decided to go grab a bite to eat under the guise of taking his suggestion. Well low and behold, he was correct. We simply loosened the nut on the ball joint and drove down a bumpy road. The weight of the vehicle, along with the natural articulation, caused the ball joint to release itself. You can hear the slight clanking as the bolt wiggles inside the hole. Amazed, and happy to make a donation to the gentleman who'd made the suggestion, we immediately loosened the bolt on the opposite side and drove down the same road with the exact same result. I 've since helped 2 other R230 owners with their coilover swaps and no longer even bother with attempting to use a tool. Simply lessening the bolt at the start of a known bumpy road and the ball joint releases itself without issue.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 389
Likes: 113
From: Seattle, WA
SL500
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 42
2003 S430 , 2002 CL500 , 2007 S550, 2003 Yukon Denali XL
I got few quick questions:
1) This PS pump on your website it says V12 SL600: https://www.goldelementautoworks.com...00-2-1l-diesel
Please could you confirm it will fit 03-08 SL600/SL65?
2) What is the difference between this pump and the one that VVK sells? Here is VVK's one: https://www.vvkusa.com/products/v12-...5-s600-s65-amg
I see VVK's one doesn't have a tank and it seems they have custom mount, but I'm not sure what else is different.
3) BC racing coilovers J-05-BR for 03-06 E55/CLS55 on your website it says Front Spring Rate = 16k Rear Spring Rate = 15k while BC racing website says Default spring rates: F - 12KG | R - 17KG. Please could you double check this info.
Thank you.
1) This PS pump on your website it says V12 SL600: https://www.goldelementautoworks.com...00-2-1l-diesel
Please could you confirm it will fit 03-08 SL600/SL65?
2) What is the difference between this pump and the one that VVK sells? Here is VVK's one: https://www.vvkusa.com/products/v12-...5-s600-s65-amg
I see VVK's one doesn't have a tank and it seems they have custom mount, but I'm not sure what else is different.
3) BC racing coilovers J-05-BR for 03-06 E55/CLS55 on your website it says Front Spring Rate = 16k Rear Spring Rate = 15k while BC racing website says Default spring rates: F - 12KG | R - 17KG. Please could you double check this info.
Thank you.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 450
Likes: 34
From: Florida
W140, R230
The Pump for the V12 that I have does for the 03-06 600 and 65 models. The difference of this one and VVK is the extra reservoir, that you do not need. And mine does not have the custom bracket. I have not sourced that bracket yet, in order to sell it. The BC Racing info that I have comes from the dealer catalog that is available to me, as a dealer. For the CLS…..I recommend the Silver Neomax instead. https://www.goldelementautoworks.com...c219-2004-2010
I still feel I need to clarify few things. So your V12 pump has the same fitment as VVK's despite their custom bracket, right? Is that extra reservoir on your pump needs to be filled or hooked to something?
And regarding Silver and BC coilovers - please tell why would you get Silver over BC and I wonder if both are fully rebuildable meaning you can quickly buy any worn-out components?
Thank you.
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 42
2003 S430 , 2002 CL500 , 2007 S550, 2003 Yukon Denali XL
Thank you.
I still feel I need to clarify few things. So your V12 pump has the same fitment as VVK's despite their custom bracket, right? Is that extra reservoir on your pump needs to be filled or hooked to something?
And regarding Silver and BC coilovers - please tell why would you get Silver over BC and I wonder if both are fully rebuildable meaning you can quickly buy any worn-out components?
Thank you.
I still feel I need to clarify few things. So your V12 pump has the same fitment as VVK's despite their custom bracket, right? Is that extra reservoir on your pump needs to be filled or hooked to something?
And regarding Silver and BC coilovers - please tell why would you get Silver over BC and I wonder if both are fully rebuildable meaning you can quickly buy any worn-out components?
Thank you.
Silvers is the better option due to the proper spring rate and better warranty. This option has been used for the SL more than any other coilover kit. Because it’s reliable and able to be dialed in just right.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 450
Likes: 34
From: Florida
W140, R230
My pump is the same as theirs. But the bracket is needed for mine, which I do not sell. The reservoir is not needed.
Silvers is the better option due to the proper spring rate and better warranty. This option has been used for the SL more than any other coilover kit. Because it’s reliable and able to be dialed in just right.
Silvers is the better option due to the proper spring rate and better warranty. This option has been used for the SL more than any other coilover kit. Because it’s reliable and able to be dialed in just right.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 328
Likes: 22
2004 SL55 AMG
These are Silvers Neomax and VVK sway bar. I too do not like a too low car BUT (I think) this is a good compromise and the fronts are near the max height adjustment (minimum adjustment threads engagement that I (and my mechanic/installer) was comfortable with).
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 450
Likes: 34
From: Florida
W140, R230
Please could you elaborate ton min adjustment threads engagement? I didn't get that... Do you mean it can't go higher beyond that height, but still can go lower, right?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 328
Likes: 22
2004 SL55 AMG
Got it. Because the front wheel is in the shadow (I can't clearly see the tire) it actually looks like the front is lowered.
Please could you elaborate ton min adjustment threads engagement? I didn't get that... Do you mean it can't go higher beyond that height, but still can go lower, right?
Please could you elaborate ton min adjustment threads engagement? I didn't get that... Do you mean it can't go higher beyond that height, but still can go lower, right?
Ideally (and according to the video), I probably would have liked (and it seems safe in the video at about 7:50) another 1/4"-1/2" of ride height BUT there have been no negative repercussions (and it looks good/aggressive to me).
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 450
Likes: 34
From: Florida
W140, R230
Maybe the attached pictures will help. Also, you understood my point exactly. There was a weep/inspection hole or some sort of open machined port in one of the parts of the shock. (about 5 minutes into this video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zahl0RMhlw I am not sure I saw this video before installation about 2 years ago so we decided that this hole should be about the minimum of thread engagement (more thread engagement-lower right height)...so that is where we put it. We then set the "rake" of the car based on the front.
Ideally (and according to the video), I probably would have liked (and it seems safe in the video at about 7:50) another 1/4"-1/2" of ride height BUT there have been no negative repercussions (and it looks good/aggressive to me).
Ideally (and according to the video), I probably would have liked (and it seems safe in the video at about 7:50) another 1/4"-1/2" of ride height BUT there have been no negative repercussions (and it looks good/aggressive to me).
