Okay....

I think the higher sidewall give a better grip when the tire body "gives up" a bit if necessary.....

I can't find any dealer for MT tires here???
I read somewhere here that Mercedes CLK 18" alloy wheels is light but I don't now exactly which model of them?
Maybe its an AMG modell? The offset is totally wrong so I think I must use big spacers so I have the wheels more out because I have the Black series kit...

I have so much to learn 1/4 runs....
Very interested info there and here and so on....
So I think we must learn about ours mistakes first and must start somewhere.

 

Here is something wrong... badly wrong.
Benz car have only the tune and drop filters.

Thericker have:
-"Super special edition individual CAI Silicon tubes"...
-Downpipes (without cats ??)
-Bigger Intercooleers (air density is much bigger )
-Better circulation pump
-Second HE ?
-Modified turbo wastegate (more and longer boost)
-Bigger injectors
-Same tune
So al this together give Thericker only 15 whp more.

This is

 

Finally I get an answer regarding how protect the intercoolers.
Here is the answer:

Water intercoolers are tricky. You do not want to add much to them, because the metal is supposed to displace the thermal energy. You might be able to stick some small pieces of Sticky Shield on part of them close to heat source.

Best Regards,
Steve Heye
Heatshield Products, Inc.
PO Box 462500 | Escondido

 

Yeasterday I decide to bleed my Intercooler system to be sure I have no air there before I'm gone bring the car to the dyno.
Because I have no chance let Mercedes do it I did it my self. I'm pretty sure this a good solution to do it. It took about two hours but I think Mercedes also need two hours to do it.... so I earn some money here
At the pictures you can se the tools I used.

-Few O-rings at the neck of the bottle that it can be sealed filler pipe.
-That small tool is for to remove the valves.

When you are ready and want take everything of I did it following way.
-Fill the liquid at top at of the bottle.

-Then take of the small pipes (one for one) from the valves so you can screw the valve inserts. (When you take of the pipe the liquid is coming to start to run out from the valve. Because the bottle has enough of liquid it don't suck up air). If it gets emptied you fill it in time before you take of the second pipe.

At the first video clip you can see how the air is coming out... . The engine is not run. Its only the ignition
on... I have modify the harness so it run al the time when ignition is on.

At the second clip you can see when everything is finish. You can see when I press both sides intercoolers pipes a while and then the liquid flow to the bottle from the intercoolers... ... Love to see when the Circulation pump is working...
WITHOUT AIR ANYMORE...

PS. You can bleed the intercoolers system same way even its OEM Intercoolers.

 

Elselent you need to look at installing an expansion tank as the problem with the stock and Speedriven setup is that when the system gets hot the coolant/water will expand. You will see some fluid seeping from the cap with nowhere to go so it gets lost and you are back to square one over time with air bubbles back in the system.

 

I am fitting an ice tank or coolant reservoir tank in the stock battery location which will also act as an expansion tank. Others have fitted a small expansion tank in the center of the intercoolers.

 

Hello Members.

Finally I have two sound clips about my exhaust system for you.
After I made the intake and honed the pipes inlet conical my opinion is that the engine is MORE sensitive / aggressive at the pedal. (Others may just disagree if they want to).

Its "rap"... more rap than before and the sound is also richer while before.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyHu...ature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfJ...ature=youtu.be

Enjoy....

 

Yes I understand and you are right.... and I saw your setup and it looks good
At this point for me was only "can I do the bleeding myself"... so I don't need to much worried about it anymore....
I'm pretty sure when I have more time I'm gone made a tank for this system also...
It was so nice to see when the air coming out and when the pump working... because you can't hear it work... but now I seen it with my own eyes...
BMW X5 circulation pump... no noice !!!

 

Something like this would work in Center

 

That looks great.
Dimensions?
From where can I order it?

Juha

 

Hello Members...

When I saw the T-branch first time I wonder how it works in pressure. ( You remember I have honed both inlets conical also)
- Two ends is coming from the intercoolers. (right and left).
- Big end to the TB.

It work just fine when you have no boost at the engine... because you have small vacuum there... ie sucks in air and then the air is going to right direction to the TB.

So I decide to test this T-branch and look what happen when there is boost/ pressure. Look at what direction the air is going then?... is't going to the TB or "over" to the another side to the intercooler inlet???
Of course that same pressure/ boost is also coming from the another side and stop it... BUT if it do it, it causes friction and turbulence, etc.... and benefit falls.

So I made my own "flow bench" with sensors... plastic sensors.. don't laugh please...

You can see at the video clip what happen when I put the blower on.
The air is going straight to the another side....nothing to TB pipe?... At TB side causing the vacuum! ( look at the "sensors")

I decided to saw a gap in the center of the T-brancht and install/adjusted plate and see how far/deep I must press it inside the inlet so the "pressured air" change the direction to TB... and you can see it at the video when I move the plate inside the inlet.... it's not so much. May be 1/2-3/4". (look at the sensors)

I did this test when I figured this to happen and it was nice to be right!

So I'm gone modified my T-branch with right size/high of aluminum plate and weld it at the gap I have made...
After this modification the boost/pressured air is going from both direction straight to the TB inlet,,,, no turbulence and friction at all.
Hope for few hp more again....

Here is the video clip ( my flow bench with sensors ):

 

I love the test and agree that the air does not split very well.

I do not think putting the plate in that location is a good idea as you will completely destroy the total volume of air.

You would be better placing it in the center of the t branch on the other side to divert the air.

 

Your stupidity continues to grow exponentially I made 565 whp w/that Custom Dyno tune & mufler delete ONLY.. I posted this info to show you what a properly ECU tune only SL600 can make & do in competent drivers hands Clayton, bought the same exact tune per my tuner OE Tuning's info.. Get it straight for just once loser... After I completed all my mods, quite a few more you have zero clue about, including unsprung weight reduction It made 633 whp & 800+ rwtq on CA 91 pump

 

Hm???? Its at the center of the t-branch now?
At the test I can see where and how deep the plate must be. I use that plate only to show what I mean. The plate Im gone use/made is going to be wider and proberly shorter and it must be in outside of the pipe curves.
The plate dont need to be so deep in the inlet and both inlets is made/welded so they turn a litle to TB direction.With the plate I help the air go the right way from the begining.
So after the modification the air is going faster/colder to the engine and its going to get more air than before at the same time.
So I think its better than let the air turbulence in the center of the T-branch.
Im gone test the plate many times with my "flow bench" and mark exactly where it must located at the inlet. I can se it now with my own eyes the right position. I have already honed the inner curves also.

 

Hi, Ekselent, from the flow of water up the clear tubes, it seems that your pump is weak or failing. I'm using the original Bosch 010 pump and if I squeeze the pipe inlet to the other intercooler, the water continues to rise in the clear tube even after I let go.

I personally have 2 Bosch pumps in series (one extra before heat exchanger and the original after) and they keep the pressure way up and a small overflow tank next to battery to keep the water level in check.

By the way, ambient temperature yesterday was 118 F (48 C), with speedriven intercoolers and scorpions, my IAT on highway is about 135 F (57 C). After WOT it reaches about 178 F (80 C) and after that it hovers between 140 F (60 C) to 158 F (70 C) unless I drive it on the highway again where it will go down a bit.

Hope my info is helpful.

 

[QUOTE=wahshk;6525356]Hi, Ekselent, from the flow of water up the clear tubes, it seems that your pump is weak or failing. I'm using the original Bosch 010 pump and if I squeeze the pipe inlet to the other intercooler, the water continues to rise in the clear tube even after I let go.

Thank you

My pump is new... no many miles on it. When I bleed the system yesterday I took of the pipe from the IC pump inlet to let the air coming away from the pump....
It was pressure a lot there...... but may be because I have a second HE it's not enough?

I personally have 2 Bosch pumps in series (one extra before heat exchanger and the original after) and they keep the pressure way up and a small overflow tank next to battery to keep the water level in check.

Can you send a picture about your setup? I mean from your overflow tank?

By the way, ambient temperature yesterday was 118 F (48 C), with speedriven intercoolers and scorpions, my IAT on highway is about 135 F (57 C). After WOT it reaches about 178 F (80 C) and after that it hovers between 140 F (60 C) to 158 F (70 C) unless I drive it on the highway again where it will go down a bit.

Thank you.
That was a good information.
At last someone answer....
You have very hot there....
No I now at which levels the IAT must be with good pumps....
My temperatures is at same levels.. some times 54C at the highway and it seems it have nothing to do with the ambient temperatures???
Maybe when the engine run at idle?
When I bleed the system in two hours the highest IAT was around 65-70C. I datalog the IAT all the time but I had the hood open.
Ambient temp was around +22C

 

This test show me also that even if you made "double Bi-CAI" setup you are not gone have any problems with the turbulence because it's vacuum at the inlet...
Its draw the air from the outside...

 

Hello.

Today I have done the T-Branch modification.
-I made the "guide" from 2 mm thick aluminum plate. ( fourth picture).

-Saw 2mm width gap at the center of the T-Branch and weld it there.

-I measure the inlets after I install the guide plate and it's not gone stop the airflow at all. Nearly the same dia now vs before the plate. I have also honed the insides of the pipe curves.

-I test three different plate models. You can seen them at the picture 6. The straight plate was the best.

-You can see at the T-branch when the guide plate is there from different angles and you can also see there is lot of space for the air to run.

I test it again with my "flow bench" how deep the guide plate must be so it change the direction to TB inlet.

Video clip with "flow bench" :

 

Hello.

Finally a new power test. (Dash command)
I have install the T-branch plate + downpipes with 200 Cel cats.
- Same power 667 hp
- Torgue rise from 795 to 902.
- Boost drop from 21,7 PSI to 21.
- Intake temperature litle colder. Dropped from 140F (60C)--> 118F (48C).

Is't better than before or worse?
With lower boost same hp but a lot more Torgue.

 

Today I made the engine covers completed.
I bought rubber edge strip u-section at the hole I made for the T-branch.
Tomorrow to Tampere and thuesday morning "true dyno runs".
and if the engine don't get enough of fuel adjustments must be made..
Hope also to modify the turbo shaft for more boost and so it hold longer.

 

I am going to do the same thing with the engine cover bur make it all gloss black like Kamil did on his CL

 

I like your idea of cutting the hole out rather than cutting straight across like on Kamils car

 

Thank you...
And you are not gone use scorpion filters at al so you must cut
the upper part also different and don't cut the lower part at al. At Kamils version they have cut the lower part also
I wanted as much as possible of the original look.

Kamils engine room looks great!!!!!

 

Correct, I probably will not have to cut the lower section as the filters are not in that position.

 

Finally my dyno chart...
Im not affraid to show this... It was verry slippery. .... The power is down but the torque is amazing.
Something happen between 3000 -4500 rpm. Everyone who now and understand this chart can see the power is there. 927 Lbft at 2850 rpm.
Its because the plate at the T-branch. It get air faster and with lower rpm...
A/F ratio was al the way 11,8.

Im not happy!!!