Michael Pitts

You will not need 4x of part # 0289976548 for a 2005 SL65 (v12). Instead, you will need 3x of part # 0289976648. The SL65 has two lines on a single banjo bolt. One line has 2 o-rings and the other has 1.

FWIW I also found I had to remove the left engine mount bolt and jack the engine up a bit to access the banjo bolt. Alternatively one could remove the AC line that’s in the way, but I didn’t want to compromise my perfectly functional AC.

This job is a major PITA on the V12 biturbo!

AlexBenz05

Thank you for this information. Have you had any difficulty with the rebuilt pump?
I am weighing a rebuilt for $300 vs original for $900.
AlexBenz05

BlownV8

With as long as the job takes, I would go with new. I've heard of too many used ones that don't work. I've even had a new one that failed within a few thousand miles.

Michael Pitts

The rebuilt pump is working fine. It outputs 188 BAR.

I also kept my original pump versus returning it for the $100 core. I’ve rebuilt that one myself to keep as a spare if/when the time comes.

AlexBenz05

Hello, I purchased all the tools that you suggested that were not already in my kit. Found I needed tamper proof Torx to move the belt idler.

I am beginning the job this weekend.

I expect the car must be fully suspended (no weight on wheels) to prevent hydraulic fluid from leaking at the banjo and lowering the car.

Is this correct?

AlexBenz05

carguyshu

Not necessary. The only lines you can’t replace or remove while the car has weight on it are the ones that go from the struts to the valve blocks.

Michael Pitts

You don’t need to raise all wheels. The solenoid valves in the control blocks are shut. I left both rear wheels on the ground. I intentionally drained the struts later to rid the system of as much old fluid as I could prior to flushing. In order to drain the struts, I had to open the bleeder valve near each strut.

Some fluid will leak from the pump connections anyway, it’s a messy job. I just kept a lot of blue shop towels on-hand. I used a lot of brake cleaner too as the leak had been there awhile and the leaked oil had collected dirt.

MarkCan

In my experience with the ABC related maintenance I always;
1. Lift the car to the highest position by means of the console button.
2. Place the car on stands so there is no weight on the wheels.
3. Relief the pressure by means of the relief valve by the shock tower.
My fluid loss is negligible, almost none. The main reason I like doing it this way though is no associated mess.

AlexBenz05

Everything done but having trouble getting at the nut on the back of the pump. Any suggestions for a guy with a large pair of hands?

AlexBenz05

I am thinking about doing this long term and I think a write-up would be great if you have the time to do so.

Perhaps you could include a parts list as well as the process. I understand you need to drop both the sub frames to accomplish this? Did you install sway bars?

jhnkng

Thank you for your advice, it made the job simple.
John King

A Car Guy

After completing the pump install, I now have the Red ABC / Do Not Drive warning, and get no response from the lift/lower button.
Prior to the replacement, I had no warning lights and the system worked well.
Pump was replaced because it had started to leak.
Any guidance would be appreciated.

Update: Issue was that the pump had not primed.
Got it primed and everything works now, but now I have the ABC visit shop warning in white.
Going to complete many lift/lower cycles over however many days needed to hopefully purge the air from the system and hope that does it.

spawnywhippet

Assuming all the work was performed correctly, you probably need to pressurize the system to prime the pump as described at the end, then carry out the 'rodeo' bleeding procedure.

Welwynnick

You need to bleed the pump by slightly pressurising the reservoir. The pump does not self prime.

Nick

A Car Guy

Just saw your response and another ..after I had that same thought and finished pressurizing the system to prime the pump.
Thank you both for the input!

dave_n_s

In the middle of this task and the pulley will wobble a little on its "shaft" but is not showing any signs of coming off.

Has anyone any advice for getting it off without damaging pulley or core pump?

Bluesmann

This is an awesome write-up! Thaks for posting!

Welwynnick

Its just a very tight fit.
Maybe use a small wire brush to get corrosion off.
Then add a bit of oil and wiggle it very patiently.
It will come off.
Nick

dave_n_s

Thank you for that.

Actually what worked for me was to get the top cooland pipe out of the way so I could get two hands on it.

I removed the quick release coolant fitting on the radiator, much easier than rubber pipes that have been there for 18 years, just don't lose the clip :-)