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I am hoping to avoid failures by proper maintenance. Since I am new to SL and its systems I did a quick google search and, based on what I have found, use;
Krytox GPL105 oil for pivot joints.
Mercedes A0009893660 for rubber seals.
Yes. Clean the rubber weather seals with water and a light detergent solution then treat with the lubricate. There is really nothing else you can do. One school of thought suggests that regularly opening and closing the top can help keep the hydraulic cylinder seals and pump motor in good, working condition. Lack of use allow the seals to dry out and fail prematurely. Another school of thought suggests that there is a finite number of cycles for operating these components, and then they begin to fail.
I will say that I operate mine often, and I did on my CLK, too and it lasted for 10 years with no hydraulic issues. My typical day is to leave the house (top usually already open), get to work and close the top. I usually go out to lunch, so the top is opened, then maybe closed (or not?) while eating or running errands, then open for the drive back to the office, then closed when parked. I open again for the ride home. As long as the temps are above 50F, this is my routine, and since I live in The South, there are only maybe 30 days per year where it's too cold or rainy to ride with the top down.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I'm also inclined to believe lack of use is more harmful than anything else.
Do you lubricated pivot joints with grease or light oil?
I never lubricated the pivot points on my CLK. I nothing in WIS indicates that they need it, but I'd probably use a lithium grease if I were going to do that.
I use Blaster Industrial Strength Silicon Lubricant. It also has Teflon and is very slick. More important it doesn't attract dirt like lithium can.
I used it on everything except the rubber where I use Krytox. Amazing the difference after I lubricated with Blaster. It is not as thick as lithium but it does get into all the places I need.
Rudeney, can you show us some pictures of the seals, showing where they're located (possibly with a finger pointing them out)? I'm sure many of us would like to start treating them with the lubricant.
I was going to post the WIS doc, but it's crap. The diagram is not very specific at all - just a few arrows pointing to the front, sides and bottom of the c-pillars.
Basically, I'd lubricate all of the surfaces on the seals on the roof itself, plus the seal across the top of the windshield. I'd also hit the seals on the C-pillar and along the trunk. Basically, where the rubber seal touches another surface, lube it!
I use it also especially on the door seal moldings. Wonder which is better for the seals; 303 or the Blaster Silicon Lube?
I’m not certain. I’ve used 303 for many years on cars, motorcycles, convertibles, t-tops and moon roofs and have never had a gasket break down or leak. I also hold onto my vehicles until they are completely exhausted. I’ve had three jeeps over 500K miles, a harley over 170K miles and even a ford tempo (embarrassing, when I was very young) over 300K all with the original engines and transmissions. I’m pretty old school but I’ll change up using a product in a heartbeat if I find something better. I’ve never used blaster lubricant but I can assure you I have at least three cans of blaster penetration oil.
303 Rubber Seal Protectant On All Weatherstripping
I have used 303 Rubber Seal Protectant on all the rubber seals on my SL550, and have had excellent results.
When I first bought my SL550, I had water leak in on the rear passenger window and on both sides in the trunk, primarily when the car got washed. So I applied the 303 Rubber Seal Protectant. It took about a week, and the leaks went away. I have best results when I treat all the seals about every 4 months.
I didn't know that Mercedes has their own weather seal treatment product.
Be aware that if you open the roof partly, in order to reach all rubber seals, the roof will either close. or open automatic after 7 min. Risk of injuries.
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Lubricant for Joints
