SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Starting car with suspension unsupported

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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 07:58 AM
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2009 CLK550 convertible, 2012 ,,E550 Cabrio, 2012 Audi Q5
Starting car with suspension unsupported

I just finished replacing the rear accumulator and would like to start the car and check for leaks while I can see everything. Is there any problem pressuring the system with the struts fully extended and unsupported?

For those who are considering replacing the rear accumulator on the 07 model changes I present the following comments: I was only able to disconnect the quick release coupling on the lower left but I was still able to slide the valve unit out and access the accumulator after removing the 2 hard mounted lines and the clamp that supports the lines
The lower vibration mount is mounted in a slide so that after releasing the top mount the whole assembly slides out easily.
After completing the replacement I question weather it was necessary to disconnect either quick release coupling, there may be enough play in those lines to still access the accumulator.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 09:18 AM
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Starting car with suspension unsupported

Regarding your uncoupling the quick release: Did you use the MB quick release tool? If you did, can you briefly explain how the tool is used ... which side of the bevel edge goes toward the male or female fitting ... what "action" you put on the tool to enable it to work its wonders--pry it up or down or such?

I haven't had to face the failure of ABC components yet ... other than replacing the front pulsation dampener in 2015. I'm approaching 60,000 miles on my car, and I fear that the ABC system will let me down ... literally and figuratively ... sooner rather than later. I'm planning a 600-700 mile trip later this month. I wish I could enjoy my trip without worrying about "what will go t/u during this journey?"
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 11:08 AM
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Ok Heatwave,I will do my best . I was equally intimidated to the extent of several sleep deprived nights before attempting this. After doing both the front and rear I will say it was much easier than I expected. The only problem being my inability to open one of the quick disconnects but as it turns out that was not necessary.
I purchased both the specified quick disconnect tools from Mercedes . As stated in the WIS they are different diameters as are the connections however the larger tool was to large for the larger connection and resulted in my inability to release it. The smaller tool worked perfectly on the smaller connection by placing bevel down , inserting it completely while prying down slightly and it opened easily. I tried this same technique on the larger connection but the smaller tool was to small and the larger was to large. I tried both opposing themselves but no luck. I was concerned that I was going to damage something so I quit and decided to see if could slide it out far enough . After releasing the 2 hard mounted lines and the clamp securing the lines I was able to slide it out and access the accumulator.
I did not find it necessary to release the electrical connectors. Once I got up the guts to start it took less than an hour for the rear. I then headed to the front and that was straight forward as described in the WIS . Remove the valve body completely and the accumulator is easy to R and R.
All that being said I still have not started the car to check for any leaks or dash lights as I am waiting for a reply to my question of starting the car while off the ground. My fingers are crossed.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 11:52 AM
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I started mine up once I got the valve block back in. I bled out through the bleed nipple to clear out any old trapped hydraulic oil. Checked for leaks and wrapped it all up.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:16 PM
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Just started it up, no leaks, no lights, success! Thanks to all who offered advise and support, this forum is awesome. It could be very expensive to own one of these wonderful automobiles without doing your own wrenching under the guidance offered by this forum.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:42 PM
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Ptrigg17: Can you post the part numbers stamped on the quick-release tools you used? I want to order a pair in advance of the day I have to tackle this project.

Many thanks.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 04:19 PM
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Heatwave, when you decide to take the plunge let me know and I will be happy to send them your way. The way I see it , they are one use tools. Just return them when you have completed the work. In case you want your own, the part#s 221589013300, 230589013300. These are the numbers listed by WIS under remove/install rear suspension valve body
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 05:11 PM
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Ptrigg17: That's a most generous offer. I hope not to have ask for your tools, but if I do you can be assured I will return them promptly. Thank you, Sir.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 10:36 PM
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Ptrigg17: You posted above that "... the smaller tool was too small and the larger was too large ...." I think there's an explanation for that: I learned earlier this evening that there's a third hydraulic uncoupling tool. It's MB p/n 221 589 01 09 00. Wouldn't you know.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 07:16 AM
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Go figure, I wonder why it was not listed in the WIS repair manual. Where did you get the information?
Now that my car is whole again I am anxious to drive it, but the thermometer reads 25 degrees and there is 2 feet of snow on the ground with a storm coming next week. Not exactly SL weather.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 08:35 AM
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I wonder why it was not listed in the WIS repair manual. Where did you get the information?

The tool info is in the WIS repair manual. Check back on your other thread ... about cold start: Post no. 10 includes attachments to the WIS manual and other info. I'm not sure which of the attachments shows the third quick-release, but it's there. I printed out all those attachmens for "when the big day comes" for me. I read over them last night and was mildly surprised when I got down to the third tool identification info.

Thanks again for your posts and all the info.
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