SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: To declare a total loss or to repair?

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Old 06-21-2017, 11:21 PM
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'13 SL63, '06 SL600, '98 S600
To declare a total loss or to repair?

Please help me decide what I should do in this situation because I'm honestly torn in what to do.

A neighbors' tree fell on my car (a 'black 06 SL600 with two-tone graphite interior). So far there is $15k worth of damage to roof, hood, passenger door and trunk (additional damage possible). Surprisingly, none of the windows broke as a result of the impact and a branch was wedged into the passenger window. (amazing cars these are). When the tree was finally removed (took a week before the insurance company did anything), the car was leaning at a 30deg angle so I'm sure there's going to be some suspension damage.

The delimna is... Do I allow the insurance company to repair all that is wrong or allow them to total the vehicle? I've tried looking on autotrader, Craigslist, cars.com, Edmunds, etc. and couldn't find one that I like as much as my current one. The flip side is that I believe that no matter how good the repairs are the car will not be or drive the same.

If this were you, what would you do?

Last edited by althethird; 06-21-2017 at 11:23 PM.
Old 06-21-2017, 11:48 PM
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Car will be totalled, it's not up to you. If the repair costs are anywhere near the actual value of your car, which they will be, they will just cut you a check and auction off the car.

15K doesn't even scratch the surface of a car that a tree falls on. Just the top system will cost more than that, forget about any collateral damage, paint, and suspension or what have you. Car is worth, rough guess, 20-25k. The damage will easily reach that, plus it will be rebuilt title, which causes another hit in value that's considered part of the damage cost.

Start shopping for another one.
Old 06-22-2017, 10:22 AM
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^^^ +1

Also remember that the body is aluminium so any shop that works on it needs to be skilled in working with that metal, which is usually more costly.
Old 06-22-2017, 12:35 PM
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Agreed. I'm using a body shop that was certified by MB and listed in their directory. Standard body labor was $46/hr, aluminum was $95/hr. Just got a call that there's $4300 in suspension damage bringing total to $19k in needed repairs.

@ItalianJoe1. I agree with you as well in that the top was $15k alone to replace but the insurance company is trying to repair instead of replace because they have that the car is "worth more than $25k" so the repairs at $15k wasn't enough to total the car at that time. They wouldn't say exactly what they're showing as the value but today's estimate may tip the insurance company in the direction of totaling the car... A sad day.

Last edited by althethird; 06-22-2017 at 02:43 PM.
Old 06-22-2017, 12:57 PM
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Total loss decision is driven by the state regs or if the reg doesn't speak to the % of ACV they use the Salvage value and Estimate vs the ACV. Typically these cars bring good salvage so I am sure they would be able to total at 70% . I've been in Auto ins claims for 24 years




If the structural damage deems it unsafe for repair that will do it in also
Old 06-23-2017, 04:30 PM
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Keep in mind that insurance companies spend big $$ to avoid paying claims or minimizing the amount they pay. If you suspect that you're being hoodwinked.......consult your attorney.
Old 06-23-2017, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by anothercar
Keep in mind that insurance companies spend big $$ to avoid paying claims or minimizing the amount they pay. If you suspect that you're being hoodwinked.......consult your attorney.

Method of determining the value of a vehicle is regulated by the state and generally have to use either an approved methodology with the state or the state requires NADA/Redbook etc. I oversee about 3800 total losses a month and we settle at around a 100% rate, so very few complaints; Meaning one settled for everyone new one that comes in....if it were that unfair you couldn't do it. If you have concerns most policies have an appraisal clause if there is a dispute...rarely see those, you have your Dept of Ins, etc

Not settling claims is actually worse, you have to have reserves set aside for claims pending settlement and that money cannot be touched, so not settling claims would be a bad idea for financials....and paying big money to not pay a claim, why wouldn't you just pay the claim if you were paying big money.

Everyone has their own opinion but most companies are more than fair and need to be so to ensure they are valued in the marketplace.

Good luck with your claim
Old 06-23-2017, 08:05 PM
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@anothercar, I don't want to get an attorney because I'm dealing with my own insurance company. To do so would likely mean that they would drop my coverages after the claim is settled.

@LGAFF, mind me asking who you work for? Mine, State Farm, is dragging their feet. It took one week to remove the tree from the car, and then a quote 3-5 business days (obviously excluding weekends) for an adjuster aka estimator to show up to review anything. For example 3-5 days before giving the first estimate. Body shop provides supplemental estimate and then another 3-5 days for estimator to inspect car for the supplement. Insurance company finally agrees that the suspension needs to be looked at before beginning work... Car goes to dealership for inspection. Dealership provides estimate and then another 3-5 days for insurance estimator to take a look at it.

So far 1 1/2 months have passed.
Old 06-23-2017, 09:47 PM
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I don't drag my personal life to work and work life to personal, but will PM you my # if you want to talk, more than happy to help.
Old 06-23-2017, 11:23 PM
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Just another guess: in good condition your car is probably worth $16,000-$18,500. The damage you describe strongly suggests that your car is totaled. If I were in your situation ... and I admittedly am not ... I'd give State Farm a good bit of grief, and I'd escalate the matter over the local agent's head and take it to the regional manager. State Farm is a ***** to deal with, in my humble opinion, and it forces you into being a flaming a**hole to get what is fairly yours. I respectfully suggest that you derive a reasonable and sustainable value number for your car, demand that SF pay that amount, and be a royal pain in the agency's behind.
Old 06-24-2017, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by althethird
So far 1 1/2 months have passed.

While a heavy repair might take a long time this is way too long to make a repair decision, the right people are not involved in making the decision, ask for a supervisor or manager. What state are you in some have strict guidelines for appraisal, etc.
Old 06-26-2017, 04:27 PM
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Delete

Last edited by Noir230; 06-26-2017 at 04:34 PM.
Old 06-26-2017, 04:29 PM
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I have been involved in this sort of thing for the past two weeks with my 2007 SL55. On June 9, a woman driving a Kia pulled out into my lane. After I hit her with my left front bumper, she spun with her foot on the gas and hit me in the left rear quarter panel. The collision report, her insurance company and mine (AAA) all determined she was 100% at fault.

Initially, AAA took my car to a shop they recommended that, after keeping the car for two days, decided they didn't have the right equipment to repair it. They then sent it to another shop they recommended that came in with a $33k estimate for repairs. AAA wanted to total my car based on the 2nd shop's estimate and AAA's appraisal that my car is worth $31k. I told AAA I did not want to total my car and wanted a second opinion.

After calling a friend who owns a high-end car dealership, AAA towed the car to the shop my friend recommended. That shop that came in with a repair estimate of $22k and now my car will be repaired. The owner of the shop that will be doing the repairs suggested the other shop owner should have been wearing an eye patch, a parrot and peg leg.

I said all of this to illustrate that you should not settle for an initial repair estimate, but should get other opinions before letting an insurance company total your car.

Good Luck!!
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