SL/R230: Buyers remorse
knowbenz I will wait for your reply with a o-ring part number, then I'll order some fluid and o-rings and get to work.
Thanks for helping me out, I really appreciate it.
Eric

Looks like o-ring is #370, 2 required one on either side of banjo fitting.
I would obtain o-rings from your local dealer if possible to expedite troubleshooting. Suggest to focus on one leak at a time then do a new filter,fluid exchange/flush and drive for a while to exercise system. You can shop around and buy your CHF 11S in larger containers ie 5 liter plus to save $$. You'll need a couple to do it right.
Good luck,
Bob
not being familiar with hydraulic systems I'm concerned about air in the system. Do I need to bleed the system at all to make sure everything functions properly? Again thank you so much for your help I really appreciate it a ton. Thanks Eric
The O-ring in that picture, #370, is the second part # I mentioned. That's what I think it is, but it was filtered out for the SL55 for some reason, even though they should all be the same.
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Last edited by evh1971; Sep 13, 2018 at 07:23 AM.
For now it's on pause, going to enjoy the weekend and approach the car when the parts come in.
I did clean the oiled area with brake cleaner and some soapy water. As soon as i get it all back together, I'm going to take the panels of the underbelly and clean all the oil that traveled to the rear. Bleed, it flush it, drive it and keep my fingers crossed. My pump never ran dry, but I question it's integrity next. Fingers crossed we will see how this car behaves.
I have raised kids who acted like this but some where down the road they settled down and are pretty enjoyable to be with.
Thanks you to the many kind comments and assistance with ressourcing parts and repair procedures.
Eric
likely all 4 accumulators need replaced as well (1 in front valve block, 1 on pressure relief valve, 2 on rear valve block). these are nitrogen filled with a rubber bladder that deteriorates over time. the car can seem like its driving fine as one accumulator can usually make up for another that's failed or is failing, but after about every 10 years/100k they should probably be done as a regular maintenance item. (i have any extra one that goes on the pressure relief valve that is brand new that i'm looking to sell btw)
other maintenance items to look at:
electrical connector of tranny- if not replaced it will start leaking and fluid will wick up through the wiring and into the TCU found in the footwell of the passenger side and ruin it.
front top latch
PSE pump- (soft close trunk branch will likely fail and there's an easy fix by epoxying over some check *****)
plastic shifter mechanism breaking
crank position sensor
rear supercharger bearings running out of grease (at 80k min were almost bone dry when i took it apart to regrease everything)
plastic idler pulleys deteriorate and shatter
top mechanism cover flaps (the plastic deteriorates over time and the hinge breaks. you can buy 3d printed hinge replacements if you still have the flaps, but this needs to be preventative cuz once you lose a flap you're in trouble)
I'd also caution against rebuilt ABC pumps. If you knew how they were designed and what minimal things are replaced during a rebuild you likely would not buy a rebuilt one. there are wear components that can't be fixed with a simple rebuild consisting of seals. new ones are also getting harder to find. I know many MB dealerships are out of new ones and only offering used ones now.
The OP bought a used car, there will be issues that pop up with any used car, fix it and move on.



The OP bought a used car, there will be issues that pop up with any used car, fix it and move on.
https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-...res-steps.html
if you buy a reman or rebuilt pump you really have no clue if something else may have gone through the system in the past or how much wear or life expectancy the non replaceable wear components have. its gonna be a crapshoot. you might get lucky, you might get unlucky. you might get a pump that was low mileage, but that got returned as a core b/c one seal was leaking or you might get one that was high mileage and had grenaded and sent all sorts of crap through the pump. Given that its around 3 hours labor to replace the pump and that the fluid isn't exactly free I'd rather rebuild/reseal a known good pump or buy a new unit vs buying a reman
Last edited by carguyshu; Sep 19, 2018 at 05:32 PM.







