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Having a hard time finding the right o-ring in EPC but I believe what you need is A0159978245. The new ones come with the lines but they show up on multiple pictures for other things. Trying to be 100% sure but unable at the moment. Could also be A0289976648, can't really tell from the catalog.
I’m really keeping my fingers crossed, I need to order hydrolic oil, and hoping I can find OEM o-ring. I know very little about hydrolic systems. I’m hoping the oil from the rear tire is traveling oil from this event in the rear wheel well.
I see those o-rings blown on a regular basis. The fluid will run down the rocker panel and the under panel to the back. You should be good with a couple orings. I have a bunch at the shop, I'll see if the part number is still on the bag
Thanks ItalianJoe1 and knowbenz, I have been looking online for the right o-ring or hose. not sure if the SL500 and SL55 hose are the same, Im assumuming they might be, I think o-rings should do the trick. knowbenz should I swap the o-rings in the rear of the car or go with "if its not broke don't mess with it"
knowbenz I will wait for your reply with a o-ring part number, then I'll order some fluid and o-rings and get to work.
Thanks for helping me out, I really appreciate it.
Eric
Looks like o-ring is #370, 2 required one on either side of banjo fitting.
I would obtain o-rings from your local dealer if possible to expedite troubleshooting. Suggest to focus on one leak at a time then do a new filter,fluid exchange/flush and drive for a while to exercise system. You can shop around and buy your CHF 11S in larger containers ie 5 liter plus to save $$. You'll need a couple to do it right.
Thank you so much for looking up these resources for me saved me a lot of headache and frustration. We do not have a local Mercedes Benz dealer here in my town. I'm going to need to Source it online from a Mercedes Benz dealer. I do plan to change the filter and flush.
not being familiar with hydraulic systems I'm concerned about air in the system. Do I need to bleed the system at all to make sure everything functions properly? Again thank you so much for your help I really appreciate it a ton. Thanks Eric
Yes you have to bleed it, it also may require you to prime the pump the first time as it won't pull fluid if it's full of air. Plenty of info on here about ABC, hopefully this turns out to be a simple fix for you.
The O-ring in that picture, #370, is the second part # I mentioned. That's what I think it is, but it was filtered out for the SL55 for some reason, even though they should all be the same.
Um, that's sort of a personal decision. Even if one can afford to pay cash for a car, it's not always the best decision. I have a loan on my SL550. I traded my CLK and then borrowed the rest at 2.99% APR. At that rate, I can take the $25K i borrowed and pay of any higher-interest debt (like my mortgage) or I can invest it and make more than 2.99% APR over the five years of that loan. It's a no-brainer.
Here's a list of MBZ dealerships that have online discount parts stores. No one has the best price/shipping on all parts, so its worth shopping them all:
Love my SL, BUT I cringe every time I drive it I think somethings going to break or go wrong...they are great, stylish vehicles and pick them up for a song...But you pay the price on the backside in repairs...I am not to far away of saying these are over engineered German junk...
My only fear in driving my SL is that I might be on a trip and have an ABC hose blow. The fear is not the failure itself, but that I'll have to pay someone else to fix it. Being able to DIY makes owning these cars so much more pleasurable.
My only fear in driving my SL is that I might be on a trip and have an ABC hose blow. The fear is not the failure itself, but that I'll have to pay someone else to fix it. Being able to DIY makes owning these cars so much more pleasurable.
My thoughts exactly, not sure how confident I feal about taking a road trip and getting to far from home..
I ordered my Parts from Vic in Nebraska.
For now it's on pause, going to enjoy the weekend and approach the car when the parts come in.
I did clean the oiled area with brake cleaner and some soapy water. As soon as i get it all back together, I'm going to take the panels of the underbelly and clean all the oil that traveled to the rear. Bleed, it flush it, drive it and keep my fingers crossed. My pump never ran dry, but I question it's integrity next. Fingers crossed we will see how this car behaves.
I have raised kids who acted like this but some where down the road they settled down and are pretty enjoyable to be with.
Thanks you to the many kind comments and assistance with ressourcing parts and repair procedures.
Eric
My only fear in driving my SL is that I might be on a trip and have an ABC hose blow. The fear is not the failure itself, but that I'll have to pay someone else to fix it. Being able to DIY makes owning these cars so much more pleasurable.
Once I replaced the hoses and pump on my CL after a blowout, I have no fear of driving it anywhere. They were leaking when I got it, and contrary to what I've seen here and know, I kept driving it anyway until it let go. Now, I'm confident they won't just suddenly let go, they always start seeping before they blow. That's the only way to be, as you have to be able to enjoy the car without that fear of not making it home.
The main pressure hose on mine blew very quickly. What it did was spring a pinhole leak, but the pressure causes it to dump fluid very quickly. It happened first thing one day on my 9-mile, 15-minute drive to work. I know when it happened because when the oil hit the serpentine belt, it cause some squealing which I heard. By the time I got to work, the white "ABC" warning was on. I popped the hood to find the leak and oil everywhere. There was a part store right across the highway, so I drove over there and they had two quarts of Pentosin. By the time I got into the parking lot, the warning was red, and the car dropped. I was able to put both quarts in and get it back home, but it was down again when I got into the garage. I replaced the hos and haven't had issues since, but that scenario is always in the back of my mine when I take a trip in it. Like I said, not because of the failure itself, because I can fix that easily, butif I'm far from home, I might have to pay some mechanic way too much money (and wait on a part).
at that age most likely just about every pressure line in the engine compartment will need replaced soon. any hydraulic hose will deteriorate as a function of heat and age regardless of maintenance. you can tell if a hose is on its way out if its starts weeping fluid near the crimp ends. the most suspect are the ones going from the front valve block to the two front struts (these hoses run under the radiator) and the one going from the pump to the pressure relief valve that goes through the engine compartment and under the front of the transmission. the 2 going to the front struts can be rebuilt by any hydraulic shop to save money. the one that goes from the pump has a dampener built in and you will have to order that one new from MB.
likely all 4 accumulators need replaced as well (1 in front valve block, 1 on pressure relief valve, 2 on rear valve block). these are nitrogen filled with a rubber bladder that deteriorates over time. the car can seem like its driving fine as one accumulator can usually make up for another that's failed or is failing, but after about every 10 years/100k they should probably be done as a regular maintenance item. (i have any extra one that goes on the pressure relief valve that is brand new that i'm looking to sell btw)
other maintenance items to look at:
electrical connector of tranny- if not replaced it will start leaking and fluid will wick up through the wiring and into the TCU found in the footwell of the passenger side and ruin it.
front top latch
PSE pump- (soft close trunk branch will likely fail and there's an easy fix by epoxying over some check *****)
plastic shifter mechanism breaking
crank position sensor
rear supercharger bearings running out of grease (at 80k min were almost bone dry when i took it apart to regrease everything)
plastic idler pulleys deteriorate and shatter
top mechanism cover flaps (the plastic deteriorates over time and the hinge breaks. you can buy 3d printed hinge replacements if you still have the flaps, but this needs to be preventative cuz once you lose a flap you're in trouble)
I'd also caution against rebuilt ABC pumps. If you knew how they were designed and what minimal things are replaced during a rebuild you likely would not buy a rebuilt one. there are wear components that can't be fixed with a simple rebuild consisting of seals. new ones are also getting harder to find. I know many MB dealerships are out of new ones and only offering used ones now.
There is a difference between a used ABC pump and a Remanufactured unit. The dealer is not in the business of selling used parts. Proper remanufactured pumps are just as good as new.
The OP bought a used car, there will be issues that pop up with any used car, fix it and move on.
Nice to know these pumps don't have to be bought at $1800 prices from MB. The labor to put it in, oh man i dread doing it. Just doing the expansion hoses made me cringe.
The pump isn't bad to change, a little worse in an SL but not terrible. I paid right around the same price when I bought mine and it's been good so far.
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
Originally Posted by knowbenz
There is a difference between a used ABC pump and a Remanufactured unit. The dealer is not in the business of selling used parts. Proper remanufactured pumps are just as good as new.
The OP bought a used car, there will be issues that pop up with any used car, fix it and move on.
if its rebuilt or remanufactured, its used. there are several places that have new OEM LUK pumps still available and i'd strongly encourage people look for one of those first if they can find one (I got a new one from eeuroparts.com for under $800 shipped recently and it looks like rockauto now has them for a little over $700). its a radial pump design that puts out a ton of pressure. View this youtube link to see how those operate
once you do you can see there are a lot of wear components there that are not going to get replaced during a simple rebuild/remanufacture process where they are just replacing o rings and seals. Here is a great thread that goes into the rebuild process if you're wanting to go the most cost economical route and rebuild one yourself:
if you buy a reman or rebuilt pump you really have no clue if something else may have gone through the system in the past or how much wear or life expectancy the non replaceable wear components have. its gonna be a crapshoot. you might get lucky, you might get unlucky. you might get a pump that was low mileage, but that got returned as a core b/c one seal was leaking or you might get one that was high mileage and had grenaded and sent all sorts of crap through the pump. Given that its around 3 hours labor to replace the pump and that the fluid isn't exactly free I'd rather rebuild/reseal a known good pump or buy a new unit vs buying a reman
My original pump just had a seal let go, I kept it as a core for that reason, I know it's not contaminated or destroyed. If I could find a seal kit I would repair it and keep it as a spare, for now it's sitting on my toolbox in the AC Delco box just taking up space.
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
My original pump just had a seal let go, I kept it as a core for that reason, I know it's not contaminated or destroyed. If I could find a seal kit I would repair it and keep it as a spare, for now it's sitting on my toolbox in the AC Delco box just taking up space.
the rebuild thread i posted has a link of where you can buy the seal kit.
the rebuild thread i posted has a link of where you can buy the seal kit.
Skipped over that, thanks for clarifying, I will be ordering one and rebuilding my pump more as a project than out of necessity. The replacement has been flawless so far.
09-12-2018, 12:47 AM
