igoblue

Hi all,

I'm in the midst of my first purchase of an MB of any kind. Basically looking for something I can drive along the coast on beautiful weekends with the top down. I came very close to purchasing a 2007 SL550, which I loved, but after having it checked some problems were found so I returned it (thank you 5-day/250 test policy).

I'm now looking at a 2003 SL500, mainly because is has just a touch over 43k miles, but it's also listed at 12,500. It's has one 'damage' incident listed in the CARFAX, otherwise it's clean. I really wasn't looking for one this old but the mileage, or lack thereof, piqued my interest.

So, the question. Assuming this as a 2003 SL500 with ~43,000 should be, what type of things should I be looking at maintenance-wise? Anything with the drivetrain? Suspension? (this was the killer with the 2007. All kinds of suspension issues). Top? Anything else?
Are there particular areas I should be looking for signs of a money pit when checking it out?

I'll be taking it to my guy to check before purchasing, but I'd also like to know a little about what to expect. Thanks so much!

igoblue

Another question.

Nearby the 2003 is a 2007 SL 550 with 70k miles listed for $15,995. I don't have a CARFAX for this one but assuming both have been maintained as they should and have normal wear and tear, would it me, in your opinion, better to go with the 550 at $3.5k more, or can I expect less things breaking with the 43k miles 2003? The most important think to me, other than everything working correctly and for a long time, is the top down and ability to fly and hear the music.

White Spyder

I purchased an 03 with 48k on the clock a year ago. Took to a MB dealership to have it check out and they said only thing of concern was front tires would need to be replaced soon. In the year I've had it I have:

flushed the ABC system- filter $50. Chf11 10L @ $14 ea
soft close trunk air leak - tube of super glue
replaced all the accumulators (got the red warning after hitting a bridge expansion joint) flushed fluid again- $250
repaired the front roof lock cylinder - $10 for o ring
repaired broken headliner clips - Tube of superglue
installed new valve cover gasket. Right side was leaking on exhaust manifold - gasket set $45
SBC system repaired under the MB extended warranty


After the warranty work on the SBC the TPMS controller failed. Dealer is replacing on their dime as it was working when it went in for repair. They have also informed me that the engin mounts and transmission mount need to be replaced. Car now has 53k miles. Other than the TPMS issue all of the above seem to be things that other owners are experiencing with their cars. All but he SBC and the TPMS work, I did my self. I plan to do the mounts as well.

Despite the above I have enjoyed the car and still do. The help on this forum is fantastic

Oh, one last one but not yet fixed is the auto window open/close when the door is opened.

igoblue

Thanks. How much did all that end up costing you?

I returned the 07 because it would have needed about $5k in repairs. Dunno if that was reasonable but it seemed high to me, so back it went.

Rudeney

A few things you should consider...these are great cars, but they carried a six-figure MSRP for a reason. They are very complex and will require a good bit of maintenance that goes well above an beyond your typical Chevy, Honda, Toyota, or even C-Class. If you are a good DIY mechanic and have the facilities and tools to work on the car, and the willingness and aptitude to learn, then you'll probably really enjoy it. If you are going to need to visit a shop (God forbid the dealer) every time it needs some service, then you better have a good bankroll. Few dealer visit will be under $2K, and $5K+ visits are not uncommon.

igoblue

Thank you, this is the kind of info I was looking for.

On the DIY note. I toyed with cars when I was younger but as you say, it was Chevy’s and such. What would I need as far as the basics for tools to work on one myself?

Rudeney

First of all, a garage. You're not going to do this job in a driveway, or at the curb. You will need some good tools, especially Torx (and e-Torx) sockets, with some specialized for tight spaces. Will will need to be able to lift the car. You don't need a "lift" - a good low-profile floor jack and solid jack stands will do it. SDS (MBS'z Star Diagnosis System) is a must. It has both the computer diagnostics to scan all the cars systems, plus the shop manuals and other helpful documentation. You can get ready to use turnkey "clone" of this installed on a used Dell laptop from Chine for under $500. You need to be able to do wet work (engine, transmission, etc.) as well as clean work (trim). The forums are great resource.

These are very satisfying cars to own when you do the work yourself. Besides the pride in having accomplished something on your own, you won't have to worry about the next thing that breaks costing you thousands of dollars.

White Spyder

check above I edited my post to add the cost of parts.

850csi

Random question: how often do you guys find yourself needing to be under the car for the typical stuff that goes wrong?

Mattleycrue76

I have found that on the SL, more often than not, you're accessing the parts in question from the side or top of the car. The main one for under the car would be replacing the engine and transmission mounts buty I have seen those done on ramps and jacks. There could be situations that require getting to the car from the under side but they are more likely going to be the exception rather than the rule. One great thing about these cars is that the engine and transmission are very solid and rarely are the cause of issues. Most of the things that go wrong are related to electronics/sensors/modules, the hydraulic ABC suspension system, and the vario roof. This means that you can DIY most of the common problems with a standard garage and basic to mid grade set of tools. I think as a far as getting "bang for your buck" for turning a wrench they are hard to beat and like others have mentioned, incredibly satisfying to own.

Rudeney

For me, it's been two unscheduled lifts - one for a ruptured ABC pressure hose, another for the starter. Other than that, it's been for A/B services to inspect brakes and flex plates, and to do a transmission service. Like most MBZ's, there are center jack points (rubber puck under the front axle carrier and under the rear differential). That makes it easy with a low-profile "race" style jack - lift the axle, then slide jack stands in from the sides. Repeat on the other axle and you're totally off the ground.