SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: ESP malfunction and limp mode as soon as I hit WOT

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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 06:26 PM
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ESP malfunction and limp mode as soon as I hit WOT

Good Evening everyone,
(Repost from AMG r230 section)

I have been noticing the ESP malfunction and limp mode as soon as I hit WOT on my 2007 SL55 with 92k miles. Will not get out of limp mode until I turn off the car and restart, problem goes away right away and ESP is working normally.

I used my iCarsoft (I know I will eventually get SDS) and got the following errors:

-B37 (accelerator pedal sensor): Signal 1/short circuit to positive/potentiometer above maximum value (P0123)
-The CAN data from control module Motor electronics is invalid or unreasonable (Accelerator pedal position)
-ESP Electronic Stability Program Control

At first thought steering angle sensor(before pulling codes) did the reset and no luck. Next, I did the TB reset and still same thing. Finally after pulling the codes, I took the pedal off and sprayed electronic cleaner on the sensor on the pedal and its connector. Waited for everything to dry and still got the same ESP and limp mode as soon as I hit WOT.

I read the part number on the pedal to be: 2303000604


I was going to order a new pedal, just wanted to check in with the forums to see if anyone else has any other advice? While I am at it, I am going to replace the brake light switch as well...I have had these go bad on almost all my older MBZ vehicles.


Thank you all for your time!




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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 09:52 PM
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From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55
Last year I replaced a faulty accelerator pedal, and the new pedal had the issues you describe.

The maximum voltage on one of the potentiometers is permitted to be c. 4.8 volts, and at wide-open throttle Star Diagnosis revealed that mine was .1 volts beyond the upper limit. I taped a thin piece of plastic over the pedal's stop to very slightly reduce the pedal's travel without interfering with the kickdown switch operation, and the problem was cured.
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bobterry99
Last year I replaced a faulty accelerator pedal, and the new pedal had the issues you describe.

The maximum voltage on one of the potentiometers is permitted to be c. 4.8 volts, and at wide-open throttle Star Diagnosis revealed that mine was .1 volts beyond the upper limit. I taped a thin piece of plastic over the pedal's stop to very slightly reduce the pedal's travel without interfering with the kickdown switch operation, and the problem was cured.
it’s crazy the things people have to do to fix some of these things. To confirm, you put a piece of plastic between the back of the pedal and the button that clicks when you fully press the pedal? Just want to make sure I’m understanding.

thank you for your response.
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Old Sep 8, 2019 | 09:41 PM
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sl600
you gotta love the forum community for this type of info
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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 02:19 PM
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From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55

Originally Posted by Amir_AMG
...you put a piece of plastic between the back of the pedal and the button that clicks when you fully press the pedal?
Yes. See the red line drawn in the attached photo.

Getting an appropriate thickness was a trial-and-error process, and I used Star Diagnosis to monitor the potentiometer voltage and get it right.
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Old Sep 13, 2019 | 09:07 PM
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Just to update original comment if someone searches...the problem has been solved via the purchase of a used pedal on eBay for $49

thank you all for input.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 12:53 PM
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Thanks, have the symptoms on my SL63. Will try this solution. Seems like exactly the same problem.
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Old Nov 22, 2020 | 04:58 PM
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Thank you @bobterry99 problem solved with a tiny felt pad on the contact point.
No need to order a new part to replace one that has barely been used anyway.
Works like a charm!
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 03:05 AM
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Problem is to find a pedal that "has be used barely"
so buy it on ebay with "accepts returns"
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 09:23 AM
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New part is reasonably cheap. Issue is that this failure mode is unsafe. This small fix is great as a short term solution until the new part arrives.
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