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I recently acquired an ’03 SL55. I had been looking at various R230 models over the past few months. I thought I would compile some thoughts that may help prospective buyers.
Model: there are basically six models to choose from during the 2003-2008 model years. SL350 (non US), SL500, SL550, SL600, SL55 AMG, and SL65 AMG. Here’s the wiki on the R230 model: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merced...SL-Class_(R230) I narrowed my search to either an SL55 AMG or SL65 AMG, mostly based on their engines and performance. But you cannot go wrong with an SL500 that’s been properly maintained throughout its ownership. So here are some thoughts to consider:
Do your homework on the car you’re looking to buy. I start off by running the VIN through a VIN decoder like: https://www.vindecoderz.com. Here’s an example: https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check...SK74F03F031016 This will tell you the details of the data card for the vehicle. It will tell you all of the information like colors, engine, options, etc. I then do an actual Google search for the car - something like “Mercedes VIN WDBSK74F03F031016” Sometimes you can find out its sales or ownership history and/or if there were any previous problems or accidents with the car. Another helpful tool while you’re at the Google search is to click on the Images icon (just below the search bar). You’ll sometimes see what the car used to look like in previous sales. In one case I saw a car I was interested in that was damaged and got to see what it actually looked like prior to the repair.
Maintenance history: I would say this should be an important factor if not the most important factor to consider when looking for an R230. If I’m serious about a car that I may potentially buy, I run a Carfax on it: https://www.carfax.com/vehicle-history-reports/ . They cost about $40/each or 3 for $60. There is typically lots of good information in the Carfax report. If you’re looking at a car at a dealership, ask them to send you a Carfax to you. Typically for MB, you’ll see the car serviced at the dealership up until the warranty expires. But if you see that the car continued to be serviced at the dealership throughout its life, this is good info. But just because you may not see maintenance history on the Carfax doesn’t mean the car wasn’t serviced properly throughout its life. Often owners will have their cars serviced at reputable independent shops. Actual paperwork on all maintenance history is what you really want. Also via Carfax, I like to see if the car continued to get registration renewed and/or inspections during it life. Components like the ABC hydraulic suspension don’t do well if they’ve sat in a garage for years because O-rings and other components within the system may deteriorate and/or get damaged after sitting for a number of years.
Maintenance items: There are a few common maintenance items that span the R230 platform. Some of the more common items and things you’re going to want to know about before purchasing the car are these:
ABC Suspension- Initially MB said that the hydraulic ABC would not require maintenance. This couldn’t be further from the truth. The ABC system relies on very clean hydraulic fluid. There’s a lot of debate on how often to change the fluid and filter, but suffice it to say it should be changed every couple of years. ABC Fluid Check-There is a specific way to check the fluid level in the ABC hydraulic reservoir. This link can give you an idea on how to check the levels. http://www.mercedesmedic.com/mercede...ype-diy-flush/ Vario Roof Problems- the hardtop Vario Roof can have problems. You definitely want to get a car that has a properly functioning roof. Sometime the fix can be easy and involves getting new flap rails for the flaps that hug the inside of trunk lid. Other problems can be more complex. Also, the components of the roof itself are typically built very strong and water resistant. But the rubber seal from left to right along the area where the trunk lid meets the roof will leak after a number of years. The seal is about $150 and can be a DIY job. Stuck Shifter Lever- this problem is the result of a plastic piece within the shifter mechanism that eventually fails and you’re unable to shift the car. This is really a problem of when it’s going to fail vs “If”. A car that has addressed this problem with the metal part repair is a good thing. Pneumatic PSE Pump- This pump controls the door locks, the air in the contoured seats and the trunk lid. This pump can fail and lead to the doors not locking or the trunk operation not functioning properly. There are a number of write-ups that involve either repairing the PSE pump or replacing it. Rear Trunk Lid Lock- Over a matter of time, the air hoses in the rear trunk lock will leak. This will disable the soft close function of the trunk. There is an excellent writeup in the sticky section of the R230 forum on how to fix this. This is not a major problem if it doesn’t work properly on a car you’re looking at. This is a DIY project. Idler Gear- in later model years, the idler gear has been reported to be a problem. If you’re getting a later model year, see if the car you’re looking into has addressed this problem. A/C Compressor- if the A/C does not work in the car you’re looking at, realize that repairing the A/C compressor is a much bigger job in the R230 than a number of other cars. For example, you need to loosen the engine mounts and lift the engine about an inch to gain access and replace the compressor. This could also be a good negotiating point for a potential purchase. Engine/Transmission Mounts- These mounts are fluid filled and can fail with age. There are some good threads that discuss how to test the engine mounts.
There are other maintenance items typical of all cars: engine, brakes, tires, etc. But I just wanted to give a potential buyer a flavor for some items that seem to be specific to the R230.
Price: Prices for the later model R230’s are still going to be higher than the earlier R230’s. Mileage and number of owners seem to be significant factors in the price, at least as far as Carfax is concerned. The example SL55 with the VIN above is listed at $20K with 52K miles. This price seems to be about average. An excellent example of an 07 SL55 with the P030 option sold earlier this year for $35K here: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...nz-sl55-amg-3/ The adage - get the best car you can afford as it will save you money in repairs in the long run is still true.
Options: The options on the various R230 platforms vary throughout the years. But there are a few components that do differentiate themselves within the same year/model. Let’s say for example you’re looking at a couple of different 2003 SL55’s. Beyond exterior/interior colors and wheels, there are some options that differentiate between the models. I’m new to the R230 platform, but here are the some options I was looking for: (219) Proximity Controlled Cruise Control; (220) Parktronic System; (401) Front Seat Climate Control (cooled); (415) Glass Roof (Roadster); (614) Bi-Xenon Headlamps; (889) Keyless Go. Of the options listed, I really wanted the Glass (Panoramic) Roof and Keyless Go. The car I ended up getting surprising had all of the above options listed except Front Seat (cooled) Climate Control. Honestly, though, I’d be happy to drive a very well maintained, non optioned SL500 that runs and drives great. The iconic shape and driving quality of an R230 is really special.
There are also other special options on other model years like the P030 Performance option on the 2007 SL55 that has an increased performance package. You can check for these option items with the VIN decoder above and scan down the list. I mention these options because I remember sitting a car dealer year ago buying my first ever brand new pickup. I almost bought the 2 wheel drive version because I was so focused on price. I ended up getting the 4 wheel drive version and was very happy I did so. In searching for R230’s, I didn’t know the 2003 SL’s had, for example, a Glass Panoramic roof option until much later in my search for an SL.
Test Drive: Make sure you test drive the car with the top up and the top down. Specifically with the top up, listen for any creeks in the vario roof and any humming or noises within the ABC suspension. Also, with the top up, while idling for 10-12 mins, make sure you don't smell any fuel smells within the cabin. Earlier years had some problems with fuel tanks (major fix). With the top down listen for any mechanical problem with the engine and/or suspension.
Again, I’m new to the R230 world. But I just wanted to share my thoughts to prospective buyers while they are fresh in my head. The SL55 I bought was abandoned and sold at an auction. It’s got 120K miles, so I bought it sight unseen at a very good price. It fortunately runs and drives good. It had been serviced at MB through 100K miles and apparently had the supercharger replaced at the MB dealership at 90K miles (Yikes$) But, I wouldn’t recommend this process to others. Would love to hear from the veterans of the forum share their thoughts to prospective buyers for things to look for in an R230.
Best,
James
Last edited by JamesMitchell; 12-27-2019 at 09:49 PM.
The lower part of the front bumper, pass. side is damaged and the 3rd brake light is damaged. Need to replace the pass. side rear strut and I'm going to do the ABC valve blocks and fluid/filter. The wheels are getting replaced once I get her mechanical sound.
Nice informative post. As a recent R230 buyer myself, I think this is spot on.
Only other things I would add are:
1) Try to get the VMI report from the Mercedes dealer. This report will show all repairs done at Mercedes dealers nationwide since the car was new.
2) Either get an inspection or inspect the car yourself and ensure the drivers side wheel well trims are removed to check ABC hoses for sweating and remove the plastic panels that are underneath the engine and trans to check for leaks.
I am most concerned about a catastrophic ABC hose rupture. Based on my research I decided to replace all three accumulators and the pulsation damper on my 45k mike SL65 to improve the reliability of the ABC system.
Great info on the ABC system inspection, especially in the drivers side front wheel well with lining removed. I'm also planning to do valve block kits for the front and rear valve blocks and replace the three accumulators and pulsation damper on the car. The pass. rear strut does have some fluid (in addition to the sagging), so that's going to be replace that as well. Also plan to do an inspection of all 10 hydraulic lines to ensure no weeping at the ends.
Short List of ABC Inspection Items:
1. ABC tandem pump in engine bay - check fluid levels with engine on and off.
2. ABC lines (inside driver's side wheel well with lining removed) - check for hydraulic fluid leaks.
3. With undercarriage plastic covers removed- check all 10 hydraulic lines for any hydraulic fluid weeping at either attachment end.
4. Four struts - check to ensure no fluid leaking at underneath or at bladder areas.
5. Accumulators and Pulsation Damper - check for any hydraulic fluid leaks.
You forgot the SL600. Nice car, and great color by the way. I have an '07 SL550 in the same color, Teal Blue Metallic. Whne I first got it, I wasn't so keen on it (my previous one was all black), but I've gotten so many positive comments, and it's grown on me since.
Dudeman- Nice car! You're right, I fixed it. My bad. Yes, the teal blue color is definitely unique. It's growing on me too. And I've also received compliments from my neighbors just in the few weeks I've owned it. Thanks for sharing!
Last edited by JamesMitchell; 12-28-2019 at 07:26 AM.
Stay away from the V12s unless you got wads of cash, or can wrench, they're very difficult to work on and parts cost a ton. Coil packs fail often, and the voltage transformer can fail, those things are close to 2 grand. Engine mounts are impossible to do without removing the engine, and that job will cost you 4 grand in labor and has to be done every 40k miles or so, the immense torque just destroy them. The cooling system also sucks, i just had to replace my radiator and then a hose blew, just runs too hot and too much pressure.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
In reaction to James: I sort of went the opposite route. Since 1998 have owned and enjoyed a non spoiled original 1966 Pagoda - rock solid, ultra dependable, trans-Euro holidays including going camping, heaps of fun. But setting up the soft top started to increasingly hurt my back, we wanted some more comforts and so the R230 came into picture. I intended to sell the W113 and buy an R230, in that order, and earn some savings along the way. As it happened, I came across a car I wanted before the sale, so there’s two SL’s in the garage now, grandpa having to go.
I bought the car more or less instinctively. Made a short ride, topdown, in chilling stormy weather and thought - yes this is so much more comfortable than our Pagoda. The car had a solid stance, giving me enough trust. Plus, important to me, the seller owned a transportation company with over a 100 minibuses and a few touring cars (many MB’s) that they themselves maintain and overhaul. The car had been cared for, it’s 722.6 box flushed, and the seller agreed to fix any shortcomings should the need arise.
From previous studies I had concluded I wanted an SL350 (OEM conventional struts and roll bars), the M112 engine, 722.6 trans and interior/accessories to my liking. Since it all fitted, I made the deal within half an hour. No service history, previously owned in wealthy Luxembourg, it just felt okay. The first year has been good, the car took us to the UK, no problems. A quiet, smooth cruiser with heated/cooled massaging seats (my spine says thanks for that). The roof suddenly became slow, after a day at the dealer, which miraculously cured itself one happy day.
I thoroughly enjoy giving rows of small TLC’s (and fixing the notorious trunk leak), just the icing on the cake. Yes, you have to be lucky, I think I allowed myself the chance to strike luck on this one (should disaster strike, we won’t be broke, selling the Pagoda).
Edit: oh and the 2019 navigation DvD (W-Europe) just works, contrary to what the dealer, MB and many others stated.
Last edited by Frederick NL; 12-28-2019 at 01:51 PM.
Stay away from the V12s unless you got wads of cash, or can wrench, they're very difficult to work on and parts cost a ton. Coil packs fail often, and the voltage transformer can fail, those things are close to 2 grand. Engine mounts are impossible to do without removing the engine, and that job will cost you 4 grand in labor and has to be done every 40k miles or so, the immense torque just destroy them. The cooling system also sucks, i just had to replace my radiator and then a hose blew, just runs too hot and too much pressure.
With that being said, i own 2 V12s
FxFormat- Thank you for sharing the reality of owning a V12. They are in a league all their own. That's awesome you own two. Nothing better than when someone asks what year is your V12 - your response "Which one? They look great BTW! To me, the sheer engineering it took to get such a potent and large engine that size inside the engine bay is a marvel in itself. I'm going to give my new SL55 the care and maintenance she deserves. She was neglected over the past couple of years, but I'll get her back. Admittedly, though, I am still on the hunt for a low mileage, one or two owner SL65 AMG. Thanks again.
V12 Inspection Items:
1. Coil Packs - ask about any replacement history.
2. Engine Mounts - ask about any replacement history.
3. Cooling System - ask if there has been any cooling system repairs.
4. Spark Plugs/Tune Up - ask about spark plug replacement/tune up history. (there are 24 spark plugs!)
For anyone considering buying a V12, the following site will give you some good info on the V12 coil packs. He actually discusses how they wear and the various codes associated with the coil packs: http://www.v12icpack.com
Last edited by JamesMitchell; 12-28-2019 at 08:09 AM.
In reaction to James: I sort of went the opposite route. Since 1998 have owned and enjoyed a non spoiled original 1966 Pagoda - rock solid, ultra dependable, trans-Euro holidays including going camping, heaps of fun. But setting up the soft top started to increasingly hurt my back, we wanted some more comforts and so the R230 came into picture. I intended to sell the W113 and buy an R230, in that order, and earn some savings along the way. As it happened, I came across a car I wanted before the sale, so there’s two SL’s in the garage now, grandpa having to go.
I bought the car more or less instinctively. Made a short ride, topdown, in chilling stormy weather and thought - yes this is so much more comfortable than our Pagoda. The car had a solid stance, giving me enough trust. Plus, important to me, the seller owned a transportation company with over a 100 minibuses and a few touring cars (many MB’s) that they themselves maintain and overhaul. The car had been cared for, it’s 722.6 box flushed, and the seller agreed to fix any shortcomings should the need arise.
From previous studies I had concluded I wanted an SL350 (OEM conventional struts and roll bars), the M112 engine, 722.6 trans and interior/accessories to my liking. Since it all fitted, I made the deal within half an hour. No service history, previously owned in wealthy Luxembourg, it just felt okay. The first year has been good, the car took us to the UK, no problems. A quiet, smooth cruiser with heated/cooled massaging seats (my spine says thanks for that). The roof suddenly became slow, after a day at the dealer, which miraculously cured itself one happy day.
I thoroughly enjoy giving rows of small TLC’s (and fixing the notorious trunk leak), just the icing on the cake. Yes, you have to be lucky, I think I allowed myself the chance to strike luck on this one (should disaster strike, we won’t be broke, selling the Pagoda).
Frederick NL- Thank you for sharing the story of your beautiful SL350! Sounds like it was a perfect situation where the owner had a shop with techs who thoroughly maintained the car. It's nice to know there are still honest folks out there. I've visited Luxembourg a few times. I can just picture your car sitting outside Restaurant Clairefontaine in all her glory when she was new. I also spent a good amount of time working the the Dutch Navy P-3s (I was in the US Navy flying P-3s). Glad you're enjoying the ride! She's looking great!
I currently have an 09 SL550 with 19K miles. Bought it 2 years ago with 12K. Never had an issue with it. I would love to buy a SL65 needing ABC repair for cheap money. Just so I could get the experience and knowledge
of repairing it.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
About the OP’s sum up:
- in the trunk it’s not the pneumatic lines, but the lock itself, that becomes leaky. Doable.
- leaking trunk: renewing the rubber below the rear window isn’t that much of a durable remedy, as you’ll be buying the same design flaw. Read the threads about proper re-installation (disassemble, clean, glue properly).
I can't say that I've had any recurring issues with the V12 coil packs or engine. Once either of the bi-turbo 12's I've owned had the coil packs replaced with the updated units, they never had an issue. Then again, I've only driven the V12's to 200k miles combined so my experience my be limited. Same goes for the engine mounts, never replaced them. Now, my E55 eats them ever 30k miles but the V12's seem to last a very long time.
- in the trunk it’s not the pneumatic lines, but the lock itself, that becomes leaky. Doable.
- leaking trunk: renewing the rubber below the rear window isn’t that much of a durable remedy, as you’ll be buying the same design flaw. Read the threads about proper re-installation (disassemble, clean, glue properly).
Frederick - you're right about the lock mechanism itself that leaks vs the pneumatic lines.
Trunk Lid: The extensive write-up about applying epoxy glue to each of the six ports is found here: https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...w-fix-diy.html An example of the six ports that need to be glued on the lock mechanism is shown in this picture:
Leaking Trunk: The rubber gasket along the top of the trunk - in the area where the trunk lid meets the top will leak over time. The procedure for the replacement of the rubber involves cleaning/sanding the area that likely has accumulated some rust and reinstalling the rubber liner with some proper sealant material and the appropriate two sided tape. There are a number of posts on the forums about this leak, but these two videos seem to cover the procedure pretty good:
I can't say that I've had any recurring issues with the V12 coil packs or engine. Once either of the bi-turbo 12's I've owned had the coil packs replaced with the updated units, they never had an issue. Then again, I've only driven the V12's to 200k miles combined so my experience my be limited. Same goes for the engine mounts, never replaced them. Now, my E55 eats them ever 30k miles but the V12's seem to last a very long time.
Blown V8 - Thank you for the feedback on the coil packs of your V12's. I mentioned them for the prospective buyer because they are an expense a potential V12 purchaser may not be aware of prior to purchase. Thanks again!
12-27-2019, 05:01 PM
Same goes for the engine mounts, never replaced them. Now, my E55 eats them ever 30k miles but the V12's seem to last a very long time.
